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 Posted 12/25/2012 1:06:46 PM |
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Getting Better at Internets
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lilboatsman (12/25/2012)
From a builders point of view, I've learned the hard way that money spent on a reliable guide (set of plans) usually saves a ton of headache.
I'm glad you think that. I feel the same way. And I hope that this makes things easier in some way or another.
 Merry Christmas.
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me”
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| Posted 12/25/2012 9:59:54 PM |
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Junior Member
 
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| Given the way the tumbler is designed I would suspect most people would buy the entire blueprints. Offering the blueprints in a series would allow you to break up some of the initial cost of the designing and planning phase but it's also trial and error. You might find out the most people buy the entire "set" of blueprints and won't have a need to sell the individual ones. On a side note does anyone know what the radius of the rear Chassis hoop is? I'm thinking of constructing my chassis out of 1 1/2 DOM (Not sure what the actual tumbler was designed with...) and I'm not sure what the rear radius of the hoop in the back (the ones the shocks mount to are..) I guessed it between 6 and 7 inches radius I.E. a 12 or 14 inch hoop...Also Are you planning on doing fiberglass shaggy?
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| Posted 12/25/2012 10:55:33 PM |
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Getting Better at Internets
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Thats a good question. I have a secret agenda that really requires me to build....ok I'll say it...TWO Tumblers at once. One driver, one stationary. But I won't tell you any more than that....for now. I do recall about 2 years ago getting a quote on some (i think) 22 gauge 4x8 sheets of steel, guy said 10 sheets would run me about $300, and I think it will take about 4 times to do a full size Tumbler...so $1,200 for a trace-bend-slight sanding finished tumbler...or build a wood buck, sand smooth, cast (with fiberglass and resin), then mold release, gel coat, and more fiberglass and resin later, finishing work, and paint...The Steel definitely sounds better huh? Haven't come to a full conclusion just yet. But I think I mmmiiight be leaning more towards steel.
I'll get you measurements on my rear hoop just as soon as I can. Until then I will tell you I'm running 2" tubing all throughout my model, at the moment not a single round pipe strays from that measurement. Also I will reward you with this photo in hopes that it will help you do some photo matching and you can come up with your own decisions.
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me”
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| Posted 12/26/2012 3:15:33 PM |
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| I think at the moment I'm going with a 12 inch hoop. I plan on making mine out of steel but probably won't go as light as 22 guage maybe 18 at the most. It will make for a heavier vehicle but I don't want to risk warping panels when welding / plasma cutting them. I have also got conflicting tire sizes on the tumbler. I think on Bob's tumbler he used 16 inch rims x 12 inch wide tires. However I have seen the tires as wide as 15 inches. Do you know what the exact rim size and tire width was on the movie tumbler. I plan on scaling mine accordingly. Also thanks for the help.
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| Posted 12/26/2012 5:18:22 PM |
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Getting Better at Internets
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I have not had any evidence to suggest the exact size used on the front. But my thoughts are they used this:
http://www.bassettwheel.com/dhole_lightweight.html
The largest size available, $111.60 per wheel. And my guess is a 4.5" backspacing.
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me”
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| Posted 12/26/2012 5:47:33 PM |
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| Sorry I meant the rear tires. I will keep the information for the front tires though as a bonus.
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| Posted 12/26/2012 10:14:10 PM |
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Supreme Being
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After doing the body panels once in MDF with the intention to mold them.. I found that it was just going to be too much work.
If I were to take a second stab at the vehicle I likely would not go the steel route, just because of having to go somewhere to get the steel cut/sheared straight and bent to the right angles.
I would end up going with sheets of fiberglass:
http://www.acpsales.com/Solid-Fiberglass-Plate-Black.html
This would allow me to get nice straight cuts on the table saw at home, and then also be able to make adjustments and bond them quickly together on the inside with some matt/resin.
It would be a pretty easy solution with nice flat rigid pieces.
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| Posted 12/26/2012 11:57:07 PM |
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Getting Better at Internets
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brcewane (12/26/2012)
After doing the body panels once in MDF with the intention to mold them.. I found that it was just going to be too much work.
If I were to take a second stab at the vehicle I likely would not go the steel route, just because of having to go somewhere to get the steel cut/sheared straight and bent to the right angles.
I would end up going with sheets of fiberglass:
http://www.acpsales.com/Solid-Fiberglass-Plate-Black.html
This would allow me to get nice straight cuts on the table saw at home, and then also be able to make adjustments and bond them quickly together on the inside with some matt/resin.
It would be a pretty easy solution with nice flat rigid pieces.
A legitimate statement sir. would the addition of your own brake-bend and shears change your opinion of such a duty? Only curious.
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me”
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| Posted 12/27/2012 2:50:38 PM |
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Supreme Being
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It would "possibly" change some of my mind. I just know that steel that will hold its shape in some cases needs to be thicker, or else you need to be good at welding thin metal.
Fiberglas sheets allow you to mess around, glue things in place and then finish them with matt/resin. You would need the shear and break-bend right beside where you were working for metal. Also cutting the smaller angles and cut-outs from steel will still need to be done with either a cutting wheel or a metal bandsaw.
Basically you're going to need a fully equipped metal shop in order to make it work. With Fiberglass sheets all you'll need is a cheap table saw and jig saw.
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http://batberry.wordpress.com/
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| Posted 12/27/2012 10:13:27 PM |
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| I'm torn myself. I've done a lot more fiberglass work, and virtually zero light steel work. Welding a frame is quite different than welding lighter steel, and I would probably need a different welder. But after getting that new welder and brake, and learning new skills, the fabrication and finish work would go faster with steel. But those fiberglass solid panels would save a bit of time too, I've never seen those. Those panels would probably keep me interested in fiberglass.
The will to act.
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