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 Posted 5/7/2019 7:26:13 AM |
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Forum Member
 
Last Login: 8/21/2023 11:30:18 AM
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slysnake (5/6/2019)
Good idea on the wheels. I only paid $90.00 for the one I got so if it doesn't work out then I'm not out much. But looking at the pictures I agree, Armory in the back and Arsenal in the front would look similar to the original.
Is that one wheel you got the 8x165.1(8x6.5") bolt pattern?
No, it's 8x170. I think that pattern is for a Ford, so I will have to use an adapter.
I would sell off that wheel for $100+ and get the right bolt pattern version... hub adaptor will take away about another inch of wheel offset, and with the 20x12 getting widened on the outside edge it will need to keep as much offset as the wheel already has or there could be bearing issues with such a heavy tire combo. Or you can have the wheel widened on the inside lip as well, but you're now adding adaptor costs($50) and higher wheel widening costs since they have to work both sides of the wheel(at least another $100) so it's actually cheaper to start out with the right wheel bolt pattern. I can dig into looking for a similar Ford rear end to the hummer, but from my earlier digging the hummer was the widest 8xbolt-pattern rear end to start with for reasonable cost.
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| Posted 5/7/2019 8:59:55 AM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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| Posted 5/7/2019 2:20:36 PM |
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Supreme Being
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| So what offset do you think. I guess front offset will be different than back?
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| Posted 5/7/2019 8:55:30 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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Could you shoot me what measurement you're getting for this dimension at 72-73%?
It's a little hard to judge because the model separates out into many different parts. But it looks like it's about 80" at 73% reduction from original model.
So the height of the cockpit from the bottom of the car to the roof is 80" or 6'8"? Something is definitely off there. The whole actual batmobile height from the ground to the tip of the wings is under 64" and I have a rough estimate of 50" or less for the cockpit height from roof top surface to bottom underside of car... I would think the scaled down would come in under 40" and the C5 cockpit similarly measured should be around 43" total height, so a really close fit there too for our scaled-mobile
Ok, checked it again. I must have given you the unreduced measurement.
At the .73 reduction that distance is 46.544 inches.
At a .70 reduction I get 43.984.
At .60 reduction I get 39 inches.
What do you think?
Keep in mind these are reduction values from my bloated 3d file not reduction sizes from the actual size of the real car.
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| Posted 5/8/2019 7:30:26 AM |
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Forum Member
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Nice, that's a lot better... Should be good to go anywhere in the 70-73% range. Seems like the sweet spot to keep the cockpit opening a good size and the Car at 9' wide is gonna be right around the 72% mark. When checking the bloating on your file this works out to our cars coming in just under 90% of the actual in most dimensions and fitting nicely around the c5/c6 sized cockpit.
On the rear armory wheels there is only one offset in the 20x12 size, -44mm. If adding 8" to the wheel width we'll get ~94" width at the rear to the tire edge, and ~106" total to the fender edges
For the Arsenal front go for the 12mm offset 20x9.5... and we're shooting for about the same 94" out to the tire edges.
this should give us good suspension and steering articulation with fenders and all to work within the 72% reduction range you're new pieces get built to.
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| Posted 5/8/2019 5:48:07 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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I'll mill a test section to check the fitment before we get locked into that. But that gives me a lot of guidance to work with. Thanks man. 
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| Posted 5/12/2019 7:12:18 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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Took delivery of the car on Thursday as promised. My time has been super limited to do anything this weekend so kind of frustrated with that. Salvage title 1997 C5 with 103,xxx miles. Supposed flood damage with no body damage.
What I have done is:
1. Check the fluids. No water present
2. Check air filter. Not wet, no mold, no evidence of water entry.
3. Check for water line inside and out. It appears water got no higher than floor board level. floor carpets are filthy. Drivers side electric seat frozen in extreme forward position, not working. Passenger side seat electric mech functioning.
4. Removed both seats and cleaned leather.
5. Checked computer and fuse box on the passenger side footwell. No evidence of water damage.
6. Checked battery. Calcified and won't hold a charge even though it is a 2017 battery. Replaced with a new battery.
7. Checked DTIs. No Codes. That's good!
8. Ran through electronic devices. Door windows, mirrors, locks work. Rear hatch release works. All interior and exterior lights function. Head lights come up and come on.
In the next couple of days I will:
1. Do some clean up on the floor board and probably remove the carpet.
2. repair the drivers seat mech and replace the seat.
3. Attempt to start the car.
4. Test drive the car.
It will have to go through the security relearn procedure that needs to be done when ever battery is disconnected, but that's no big deal and doesn't require any special equipment.
Now the bad news. I'm starting to feel that it's a shame to tear apart a nice sports car. 
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| Posted 5/12/2019 7:37:10 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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sly
"Now the bad news. I'm starting to feel that it's a shame to tear apart a nice sports car."
Went through that same feeling when I bought and drove my 2003 Dodge 3500 home.
The feeling will not pass until you actually start to strip/modify your donor. vertigo
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| Posted 5/12/2019 7:56:35 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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Went through that same feeling when I bought and drove my 2003 Dodge 3500 home.
The feeling will not pass until you actually start to strip/modify your donor. vertigo HAHAHA 
Thinking about the tear down. I wonder if it's necessary to do a complete tear down all at once or if it can be done in stages? For example: Can I remove body panels on the front half and prepare the front body to be sure it fits? As far as the tear down goes. does it need to be a complete tear down or can the engine stay in place and build the body around it? I'm afraid if I get it all torn apart I will never be able to put it together again. 
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| Posted 5/12/2019 9:31:19 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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sly
"Thinking about the tear down. I wonder if it's necessary to do a complete tear down all at once or if it can be done in stages? For example: Can I remove body panels on the front half and prepare the front body to be sure it fits? As far as the tear down goes. does it need to be a complete tear down or can the engine stay in place and build the body around it? I'm afraid if I get it all torn apart I will never be able to put it together again."
I had to tear my donor Dodge 3500 almost completely down and remove the engine and transmission since they would end up in new locations.
For me, before I began to build and fit the body and I was going the corvette route, I would remove everything that was positively going to be removed permanently. For the engine if it is going to stay in its present location I would leave it in place and remove it later for rebuild if necessary. As far as working in alternating tear down and build stages this has never worked well for anyone I've seen attempt this method. A complete tear down with all the wires, tubes, etc. labeled to make re-hookup easy. A donor photo-image log is also a must for me. Remember to mark/label bolts and the locations they were removed from on removed component assemblies. Reason: Bolts may be the same size and type but frequently are different lengths making it a frustrating experience to get them back in the correct holes. vertigo
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