sly's BvS DOJ Build
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Posted 5/13/2019 8:57:38 AM
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So first off, awesome find, as it seems like the only electrical issues are related to the one seat/side where the water actually came in, so everything else being sound is great. And you getting that seat working again will make it resalable for the most $$, but it's not crucial to your build. Also since the car was not wrecked you have a "true square" frame to start with and every body panel is salable as well for full cost recovery. After selling off everything you don't need you will probably recover the entire cost of this purchase.

As far as tear down goes... half the car body panels may not be effective. You can leave the entire drivetrain in place for now, and all wiring can remain so the car is still easily movable, but so you can also fit up the exterior new panels, as they almost fit around most of the new and old suspension/running gear, with merely removing wheels to make space for fitting up the body pieces.
The current rear suspension will not be in the way of that, as when you fit up all the front and cockpit pieces you will see the scale is working and the rear side poxes can still be created and checked before yanking the rear suspension and starting the restructuring back there.
As vert said though, labels what each harness connector goes to when remove and body panels that have something like a maker light for example connected to it, will give you easy reference for using those connections in the new orientation.
You will basically take the car down to this, but with carpet and a bit more interior removed.
Batmobile
Batmobile
And since we already know what seats were used, you could sell off the stockers and get your SPARCO chrono roads mounted in there to properly fit your body pieces around them and start spec'ing where the chassis tubing will go. Notice how the stock b-pillar/roll hoop is a great guide for the Bat-roll double hoop going in the same position?
Post #163112
Posted 5/13/2019 1:30:46 PM
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So I've checked the road legal sizing in mine and the surrounding states... looks like 102" is the go to number they are agreeing on, and with fudge-factor on your latest reduction we were coming in close to 106" while keeping a decent interior around the vette size. If you have your reduction set to 72% or less on that oversized 3d file I can fudge the build widths on how the fenders fasten by a couple total inches very easily to keep all three of us actively working this in that measurement and all the steering and suspension working well with the 46"x19.50 MT in back and 35-37"x12.50 in front. We still have enough fudge around room within the various ways I've been laying out the chassis to accommodate slight changes along the way and keep ratios close to the OG.
Post #163114
Posted 5/13/2019 4:46:22 PM


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Going in reverse order of the posts above...………………..


1. So do you think 70% would be better than 72%? At this point I can do whatever you want.

2. That tear down looks great to me. I do want to get the car fully drivable first though. To that end.... Got it started and running today!!! Unfortunately the clutch pedal went to the floor. Probably need a new clutch.

3. Good advice on labeling and photo journaling everything Vert. It shall be done!
Post #163115
Posted 5/14/2019 8:29:28 AM
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check the hydro fluid level for the clutch first... most likely the slave or master cylinder is done. I would not waste $$ on a clutch... none of those parts are needed for that drivetrain since it's getting replaced. If it just needs fluid, or the clutch fork popped off, then those don't cost to get going again... I would make sure motor and most electrical items work and then call it good to go on getting stripped down to the rolling chassis point.

Alrighty, so let's set this at 71% from your file then... this should get us everything where we need it.

Post #163121
Posted 5/14/2019 4:56:28 PM


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71% it is.

most likely the slave or master cylinder is done
Yep. Today I started by checking the fluid level. Very low and VERY dirty. Started the fluid change procedure. Cleaned out the reservoir, added fresh fluid, pumped the clutch 50 times. went to repeat the process but once again the reservoir was basically empty. Looked under the car and there's a big puddle of fluid rear and center of the motor. So, I don't think it's the master. That would be more toward the drivers side wheel. Maybe it's the slave or just a broken line.

Since it's a salvage title I was thinking it would be nice to get it rebranded with a rebuilt title. To do that I need to drive it to the Highway patrol station and have them check it. (Mainly they are just looking for stolen parts and checking vin numbers.)

Three and a half weeks left until my yearly banishment to a desert island. I'll see what I can get done by then.
Post #163122
Posted 5/15/2019 10:46:55 AM
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In your state do you have something similar to a "street rod" special registration like I do here? As in a "historic" registration would be something >=20 years old that isn't greatly modified from OEM, but we also have a "street rod" registration very similar at >=25 years old but greatly modified from original. So for hot rods and such...
If your state has a street-rod or hot-rod type registration for something over 20 you could get it registered that way, and often without inspection... but if your equivalent requires 25+ then maybe getting any rotted out clunker from 94-earlier will give you a valid VIN and title to build the batmobile under for road legality. For example, I have a 92 lexus shell/title that was free to pick up from a friend I will officially use one piece of in my build.
If you change yours to rebuilt and register as a vette, you may be required to do inspections and emissions down the road that the officials would expect to see an OEM car pull up for, and the police may be able to pull you over and citation for a heavily modified vehicle unless it is registered under the correct tags for such a thing.
Just covering worst case scenarios to cover any state folks may build these to drive in.
Post #163131
Posted 5/15/2019 11:00:29 AM
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slysnake (5/14/2019)Cleaned out the reservoir, added fresh fluid, pumped the clutch 50 times. went to repeat the process but once again the reservoir was basically empty. Looked under the car and there's a big puddle of fluid rear and center of the motor. So, I don't think it's the master. That would be more toward the drivers side wheel. Maybe it's the slave or just a broken line.


Yep, slave it is then, and that's a pita that requires doing almost a clutch job to get to, but without needing the clutch parts done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RyGaWtuyzY

and this is what your slave looks like...
Batmobile

it could possibly be the connector on that line or the line itself...
Post #163132
Posted 5/15/2019 4:41:50 PM


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Yes. Dealership quoted me 1200. for clutch and slave installation, which I think isn't too bad considering you have to drop the exhaust and the entire drive train to access it. But we will be replacing all that anyway, right? So I probably should leave it alone. Although I'm dying to drive it around a little.
Post #163133
Posted 5/15/2019 7:12:30 PM
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Trying to play catch up here in the thread, all I can say is......OH...MY...GOD.
Post #163136
Posted 5/15/2019 8:04:52 PM


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Yeah, my state has a custom car registration. It seems pretty elaborate. Doesn't mention anything about width, rear view mirrors, etc. I'll have to look into the full details.

Steps in the Registration Process

To successfully finalize the custom car registration process, applicants will be required to complete certain specific steps in addition to those that apply for the standard vehicle registration procedure. Therefore, in order to obtain the department’s approval to title and register custom vehicle projects, you will first be required to complete the following steps:
•Schedule a vehicle inspection by calling or emailing the MVD Bureau of Investigation and Identity Protection.
•Complete the MVD Affidavit to Operate a Vehicle for Inspection for purposes of obtaining the authorization to drive your car to the inspection facility.
•Submit the supporting ownership documents during the inspection, such as a car title or a manufacturer’s certificate of origin and bills of sale and receipts for the major parts used to build or modify the vehicle.
•Obtain an authorization form for an Iowa vehicle identification number (VIN) and retrieve the application and ownership documentation from the inspector.

After completing the mandatory inspection for an custom vehicle registration, applicants will be required to visit their county treasurer’s office in order to finalize the titling and registration procedure. During the final step in the process of registering a custom vehicle, auto owners will have to submit the title and registration form, the VIN approval form, the ownership documents and payment for the applicable fees.




Fees to Register a Custom Vehicle

Vehicle owners applying for custom car registrations will be required to arrange payment for several types of fees in order to successfully complete the registration procedure. The fee for a new registration for custom vehicles generally varies based on the vehicle’s empty weight and fair market value.

Applicants who have paid sales tax on any components used in the vehicle construction will be required to provide the corresponding proof of payment. Also, since the custom auto registration process consists of additional steps, additional service fees may also apply.
Post #163137
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