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Posted 7/12/2017 5:18:40 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I placed a copy of this post here for its potential use to anyone
planning to or actually building a Bat Vehicle.

Miller weld forum: Mig Dual-shield Fluxcore wire has replaced Stick
welding for many processes. So, why do many Mig welders still use
stick welding also?

Stick welding is still used by many Mig welders when the situation
calls for flatter and deeper penetration welds in new structural steel
and when welding rusty, dirty, oily, and painted metal, often in an
adverse environment.

In reality, the choice usually depends on the operator skills,
confidence, and the machine's power. Sure many people can make Mig
welding with gas shielded solid wire look good in flat position with a
few minutes of practice and a well set machine.

They have a much harder time when they are called on to weld on
anything but new, clean, and acetone degreased metal. It may look
good, but the truth is many people just don't have a complete grasp on
the concept and finer details on how to run and weld with Mig.

For one thing, you'll see them running a bead that is much too wide.
Sorry but a .030" wire can't create a good puddle that is half an inch
wide. They rarely get proper penetration because they put most of the
heat into the puddle instead of fresh metal; a disaster in the making.

Stick welding gets a lot of its good properties from the flux. Good
cleaning action which reduces the chances of bad weld quality if there
was any dirt, rust, oil, paint, etc. Penetration will generally be
better, mostly for the untrained.

So, what do professional welders use when they need the benefits of
stick welding? Dual-shield fluxcore is what is used in real
production. It requires a shielding gas. Usually pure Co2 or C25.
Dual-shield Fluxcore has replaced Stick for many processes. It has
good penetration, good weld properties, cleaning action from the flux,
and is capable of very fast deposition rates compared to stick and gas
shielded solid mig wire.

Keep your beads narrow and watch the digging action.

Remember Voltage isn't the heat (amp) control. The wire speed controls
the amperage. Voltage controls wetting action and burn back.”
Post #159121
Posted 7/16/2017 8:19:58 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
Placed a copy of this post here for anyone that might benefit from this information that is planning or building a Bat Vehicle.
Welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts. (bungs)

Here is a really good YouTube video with lots of detail on welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Making Control Arm Links
5-31-2016
BleepingJeep
Post #159146
Posted 7/21/2017 8:21:04 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Projection and Progress Reports are an excellent way to move any Bat
Vehicle build forward. Here is mine for my Tumbler build.

PROGRESS REPORT: 3-months later
Posted this list on 4-21-2017

Vertigo's Tumbler Build Update: Projected close range work.

COMPLETED:

Will be adding and welding in more structural steel tubing to back end
of Tumbler. (completed)

Have ordered 2" X 1/4" wall DOM steel tubing, heavy duty 4-link hemi
end axle suspension kit, heavy

duty axle truss, and associated hemi end connection brackets/mounts.
(completed cutting, welding, and installation)

Have ordered 4-rear 44" Interco SAM-43 Super Swamper tires. Back
ordered until 1-MAY-2017. (completed: in my possession)

Waiting for 2 custom built front wheels. Expected delivery early
June-2017. (Completed: received them in July-2017)

Constructed rear body panels and mounted 4-recessed propane tanks for
rear afterburner assembly. (Completed)

STILL IN PROGRESS:

Once Super Swamper 44" Interco tires arrive will mount one on a single
mount wheel and inflate to proper pressure and use to get accurate
measurements before finalizing design for custom rear wheels. (still
in progress but should not take too much time)

Once design for rear wheels is finalized will order custom wheels and
expect delivery in a month or so. (still in progress: custom wheels
usually take 3-4 months to receive.)

Will also probably end up refitting the GM 14 bolt axle with disk
brakes. (still in progress: but should not take too much time. Hope to
complete by end of July-2017)
Post #159154
Posted 7/21/2017 8:31:05 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Projection and Progress Reports are an excellent way to move any Bat
Vehicle build forward. Here is the new projection report for my
Tumbler build.

A PROJECTION REPORT for close range work is usually aimed at around
3-months into the future. A PROJECTION REPORT’s most significant
advantages are that it will help most Bat Vehicle builders avoid
builder block and that all you need is something to write with, on
something to write on, or an I phone etc… to create/update a
Projection Report on your Bat Vehicle build.

PROJECTION REPORT: Vertigo’s Batman Tumbler

Vertigo's Tumbler Build Update: Projected close range work for next
three months. (For me that is around 100-hours, maybe more.)

Cut and weld propane tank valve protection shields.

I will probably end up not using these tanks because of the risks
associated with being so close to the engine but with heat shields I
could use them and even use a propane engine conversion as well. I am
isolating the driver/passenger compartment from all fuel sources and
potential external fires. I will also install a quality fire
suppression system. I could mount a 5 or 10 gallon propane tank inside
a safety blow out compartment, concealed within the body panels to
power the afterburner as well. A lot to think about on these build
aspects.

Mount one Super Swamper 44" Interco tire on a single mount wheel,
inflate to proper pressure, mount on an axle end with 2000 pounds of
weight, and use to get accurate measurements that include side wall
weighed deflection before finalizing design for custom rear wheels.

Once design for rear wheels is finalized will order custom wheels and
expect delivery in 3 months or so.

Refit the GM 14 bolt axle with disk brake rotors and calipers.

Use 2” X 2” X ¼” wall tubing to build U-shaped upper shocks and
actuators integrated frame assembly.

Cut and weld 2” X 2” x ¼” wall tubing lower support assembly for
U-shaped upper shocks and actuators integrated frame assembly.

Construct and mount proxy shocks between GM 14-bolt axle shock mounts
and U-shaped upper shock mounts on actuators integrated frame
assembly.

Cut and weld in upper Tumber body frame with relevant supports for
contour integrated gull-wing doors.

Cut and weld, blow out compartments concealed within the body panels
for fuel tanks.

Will probably spend any time left over during the next three months on
front steering system and/or on cutting/welding body panels.

This should keep me busy for a while.   vertigo
Post #159159
Posted 7/22/2017 9:32:40 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I placed a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
What my experience with welding hemi-joint thread tubing inserts has taught me.

My tubing was 2” X ¼” wall and my hemi-joints were 1-1/4 X 12 TPI and
the matching threaded tubing inserts were just slightly over 1/8”
thick. When you subtract the cut thread depth the 1/8” thick tubing
insert is really about 1.25/32” or approximately .070 thousandths. No
wonder welder heat warps the threads.

One of the most important things that I learned about welding
hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.

Buy the left and right handed taps for the hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.

You will almost certainly need them if you do good solid welds on the
threaded tubing inserts.

If you don’t need the taps there is a very, very, strong possibility
that your welds are not as good as they should be.

I test welded two hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.

One I welded with appropriate welder settings and the correct
techniques for good quality welds.

The hemi-joint would not screw in after it reached the inside weld ring.

I used the tap to clean up the threads.

I cut it in half. The weld penetration was complete and well integrated.

The second, I welded with reduced welder settings and the correct
stager and cooling techniques suggested on many of the welder forum
postings.

I coated the hemi-joint with anti-seize compound and still required a
short length of steel bar to screw it into the threaded insert.

I did not need the tap.

I cut it in half. The weld penetration was incomplete and poorly integrated.

It appears that you can’t do a high quality weld and not need to use
the tap on the threads.

Perhaps that why NASA and many high performance car builders use taps
after welding hemi-joint thread tubing inserts.  My experience with
welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts tells me that I should
always use a tap after welding. Even the one that I welded with less
quality welding techniques still needed anti-seize compound and a
short length of steel bar to screw it into the threaded insert;
indicating that there were still significant binding forces present.
And a FINAL CAUTION:  NEVER WELD A HEMI-JOINT THREADED TUBING INSERT
WITH THE HEMI-JOINT SCREWED INTO IT. THE HEAT WILL ALMOST ALWAYS
DESTROY THE HEMI-JOINT’s TEFLON LINER and make it worthless.   vertigo
Post #159164
Posted 7/22/2017 9:53:50 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
Finished welding upper four link chassis mounts and completed installation of four-link axle system on my Tumbler. Will most likely use a similar four-link system on my DOJ Batmobile as well. vertigo


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Post #159169
Posted 7/24/2017 7:00:37 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I placed a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Here is an outstanding and VERY VALUABLE RESOURCE for very high
quality heavy duty multi-link suspension systems, axle parts, brakes,
etc., manufactured by a guy that really loves what he is doing and a
very honorable man. (My number one place to go, when I want to buy
very high quality and heavy duty multi-link suspension systems, axle
parts, and extreme duty axle and chassis mounts.

ruffstuffspecialties.com

“Lots of people ask me every day how I got into this business of
making 4x4 parts? My answer is pretty easy. I had bought a '73
land-cruiser and tried to find parts for the modifications I wanted.
They were simply not made to the standards I desired and the Customer
Service was pitiful, it was as if they were doing me a favor by
overcharging me for things I could do better, so I resurrected
Ruffstuff Specialties.

I know, resurrected Ruffstuff from what? In 1980 I had just gotten
out of the army and was going to college at NAU in Flagstaff Arizona
and in a small way mountain biking was just starting up. I had some
experience with a torch and started Ruffstuff Specialties building
Mountain Bike Framesets. I wasn't Tom Ritchey but Ruffstuff was in the
first wave. We built 17 framesets over 2 years and I was still a
student so I was essentially starving. I closed Ruffstuff afer 2 years
and 2 years later the Stump-jumper came out and that was all she
wrote! I was already a River Guide in the Grand Canyon and wasn't
about to walk away from that so I didn't go back to starving.

When we started building 4X4 Fabrication parts we were a wholesale
only shop serving about 40 4X4 shops within 100 miles. I developed our
product line directly from those shops input so we didn't start with
hit or miss stuff, it was tried and tested long before we ever opened
for retail. In fact, I was fairly satisfied with a part time wholesale
only business but things happened and we took that first step. The 2
main things were that a group of the companies I supplied got together
and asked me to go retail for name recognition so they could better
sell our parts. The other thing was my job moving to Chicago.
Happenings at the same time tied it all together and it just made
sense.

As we grew we have taken great pains to stay true to our origins, we
have never settled for "Strong Enough" and do not intend to ever take
that route. We have never been afraid to try new ideas and we have
never rushed an untested item to market. Lastly, and this is a big one
to me. We do not use YOUR money (Pre-Orders) to fund OUR R&D, how
often that happens in this business simply amazes me. In business
there is something called Risk & Reward. If I spend my money I am
entitled to a fair profit, if I spend your money to develop a product
I am entitled to nothing, I never took the risk.”   Dan Fredrickson
Post #159184
Posted 7/26/2017 7:59:56 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
Been physically building on my Tumbler a lot over the past few months
but have also been putting in about 3-hours a week on the design and
planning of my DOJ Batmobile.  At this point I am strongly leaning
towards an in line tandem design with independent multi-skewing.  My
only lamentation is that we don’t have 12’ wide roads.

Projection Report:

By the end of 2017 I plan to complete my research and design.

I would like to begin stripping down my donor vehicle on January 1st 2018.

Explore 3D files available as to suability of managing this design.

Experiment with displaced modularity in CAD.

Displaced Modularity would be related to separating the key module
components of possible donor vehicles into independent sections such
as front tires/axle, engine/transmission, driver/passenger
compartment, rear tires/axle and then moving them independently of
each other in an over-lay transparency over the DOJ movie vehicle.
After that, it becomes a matter of analyzing what needs to be done in
between the modules to mechanically re-link them functionally.

Explore additional possible donor vehicles with displaced modularity.

Make a final decision on my donor vehicle.

Have a current donor vehicle but will most likely end up trying to
acquire a Dodge 3500 4 X 4 crew cab with 172” wheelbase.

Attached is a rendition of my current design.     vertigo



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Post #159198
Posted 8/1/2017 8:25:09 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
Bought a copy of the B v S DOJ Batmobile 3D file in STL format today.

File will not be of much benefit without a quality 3D CAD/CAM setup.

Most likely will buy Rhino3D version 5.0 as program for CAD and

RhinoCAM-Mill as program for computer aided machining.

For someone that might be planning to build a B v S DOJ Batmobile or another Bat Vehicle one could use a laser or mechanical scan of plastic models to input information into a 3D program such as Rhino3D. After building the right files one then could use a CNC mill to machine parts.   vertigo
Post #159217
Posted 8/2/2017 6:29:35 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528

Been researching and thinking about how to best calculate the
appropriate shock absorbers/coil over springs, etc. for the front and
rear of my Tumbler and DOJ Batmobile.

For my Tumbler and DOJ Batmobile

Rule one: The finished weight of a Bat Vehicle, my Tumbler and DOJ
Batmobile in particular, is an unknown factor needed to accurately
calculate shock and coil-over spring rates, travel, diameter, and
eight, or so, other variables.

Given, the un-certainty of the final weight I plan to use stand-in
proxy shocks while I build the rest of my Tumbler around them and the
same for my DOJ.

I know from my research that four Tumblers after being finished
required multiple trials with shock and coil-over spring combinations
before they finally got them right.

Post #159228
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