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 Posted 7/25/2018 4:04:09 AM |
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Forum Member
 
Last Login: 3/30/2024 1:19:14 PM
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Ok guys, so update on my current prep work:
So a few things that Ive been looking into and researching. Ive ran into a few small issues in terms of sourcing parts locally, as I have not been able to find too much of the bigger items that will be needed.
The smaller things wont be too much of an issue as I can find those locally without too much trouble.
Ok so my current thoughts / ideas / issues...
- The actual build:
* I think it would go without saying that the rear tires would have to be imported.
* I have found a local Hoosier supplier and they have stock of the front tires as they are commonly used in oval track racing over here.
* I have found 2 possible options for the front hubs locally as we never got the Dyna units here so im still looking into these to see what would be the better option.
(Option 1 is the Toyota Hilux SFA. Option 2 is the Jeep SFA)
* Still waiting for the final quotes for having the rims widened. And have seen a few sets up for sale in the local classifieds, so no issues their.
* As for the donor car, Ive decided to use the complete wiring harness with clusters and storks as it would just make it easier in a plug and play form. Reason I will be keeping the ECU is so that I can keep all the functions and info of the cluster display. I will post up a few pics later of what the display looks like and what functions it has, this includes most of the basics but also has Park Distance Control display and thought this would work well on the car due to its size and low visibility factors (So I was thinking 2 sensors on the rear axle, and other 2 on the side flaps just in front of the rear wheels, to cover the sides) even thou i will have cameras all round its just a nice added feature that the donor car has. 
Preparation for the build:
* Most important thing of all - getting close to acquiring the all so important bits and piece of info from Shaggy...  just need to finish up one or two small things first then its all in sight.
* So Ive been going thru a few build threads and taking note of what all I can see in the pics of tools were use. I know Vertigo has a list up of what he used in his thread too, so basically I started making my list of tools and equipment needed to do this project. Now I know I wont be able to buy / build everything needed like some guys have done, so Im basically gonna have to see what would be within my "range" of what I would like to buy and they decide what I will have to out source.
* with that said I have set my monthly (Pre build) budget to buying up things that I know will be needed for the build. Welding Magnets, Welding Rods, Co2 Wire, Clamps and so forth.
* Ive started getting quotes for different sizes and thicknesses of steel that ive seen and read that was used.
* steel would also be used for my chassis stands once I get started.
Other:
* As Ive already started buying up a few things for my build and will continue as I go, Ive decided to keep track of all my current (2018 and onward) doings.
- This includes things like:
- Time spent on research (As best as I can record)
- Expenses of things bought (Got a file with all current till slips)
- Time spent on: Either building (once I start) or running around buying things.
- Excel spreadsheet set out with tabs for each one so I can have a running tally at any time.
Thoughts:
* Biggest toss up in my mind at current is weather I want to keep the Lexus v8 (4,2 Liter) and go the forced induction route (Either Supercharge or Twin Turbo), OR, weather I should sell it and go with a Chevy 350 or 383 motor and keep it naturally aspirated (No Blowers) but maybe add some NOS? As I have 2 small kits, just enough for a v8 setup... 
* Second thing on my mind are the actuators / air cylinders. It would be nice to have them functional like in the movie but then again that means more work around getting it all integrated. But will see later...
* Third thing at current is the rear diff / axle. I know a few guys have used Ford 9" or Chevy 14 bolt like vertigo. BUT... Im having a hard time trying to find a unit locally.
I have a Chevy 10 bolt that came out of a 49 Pick-up but its the one with the torque tube. So I need to do more research on this unit as I was thinking of maybe removing the tube section and using as is or possibly trying to upgrade the internals and keep the casing. But time will tell.
Other idea I had was to possibly look at a small 2ton truck diff / axle that already runs dual rears and use that as a starting point...
And that is a wrap for today... 
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  ***Passion and Creativity is what sets us Apart...***
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| Posted 7/25/2018 11:30:35 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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War Machine
"Third thing at current is the rear diff / axle. I know a few guys have used Ford 9" or Chevy 14 bolt like vertigo. BUT... Im having a hard time trying to find a unit locally.
I have a Chevy 10 bolt that came out of a 49 Pick-up but its the one with the torque tube. So I need to do more research on this unit as I was thinking of maybe removing the tube section and using as is or possibly trying to upgrade the internals and keep the casing. But time will tell.
Other idea I had was to possibly look at a small 2ton truck diff / axle that already runs dual rears and use that as a starting point..."
hey War Machine,
Very impressive project report on your Tumbler build.
The most important factors to consider when considering front and rear axels is your total Tumbler weight and envisioned performance parameters.
From my research, for a normal build a Dana 60 axel (or equivalent) would be the minimum for a rear axel.
For the front I have seen Jeep front axels (or equivanlent ) used as a minimum.
My Tumbler will have a 1/4" steel body so I needed to go heavy.
GEZ on his build is using a rear end from a Dodge truck. (see his build for axle photos) vertigo
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| Posted 7/25/2018 7:26:44 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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hey War Machine,
One fellow emailed me today that he just bought a flood damaged 4 X 4 Dodge 2500 2006 model year for 4,000.00 at auction for his future Tumbler build. I bought all my axels on eBay. vertigo
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| Posted 7/25/2018 9:24:09 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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Yes, great report War Machine. Very thoughtful.
Thinking about your engine, naturally aspirated would be my first recommendation, for what it's worth. Your tumbler is going to be heavy if you use steel plates. Superchargers are great for speed but have heat soak problems. Your going to want torque.
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| Posted 7/26/2018 11:58:50 AM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 3/30/2024 1:19:14 PM
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Hey Vertigo and Sly.
Thank you for the comments and feedback.
As for the Axles I'm still looking into what we have locally that would be able to compare the the Dana units, if any... If I can't find anything that does I will have to look at importing something. Only thoughts around that would be that the imports / shipping would be crazy due to the size and weight as I would have to buy a complete unit as I don't think I would be able to find just the end sections that are needed for the from units. But let's see...
As for the performance / engine setup I am leaning more towards the Chevy option without doing any Forced induction as it would mean just more potential problems along the lines later.
I'm not looking for something that is going to achieve any sort of 'performance' or 'speed' aspects. So I think the Chevy Small Block will do just fine...
Let's face if, I will never try run a 1/4 mile or top speed attempt with it and I will never try challenge someone on the freeway to a run.
To me the whole purpose is to cruise where you need to be and let the people around you do the 'chasing' to get close for a few pics...
The tumbler will stop traffic on it's own just by doing a simple cruise... I don't need a 1500hp or 10sec car. That's not what the tumbler is about... It's about a masterpiece that one builds as a enthusiast (batman, auto, engineering ect) to enjoy and kinda show off with..
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***Passion and Creativity is what sets us Apart...***
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| Posted 8/9/2018 4:19:30 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 7/23/2023 9:24:00 PM
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on my axle. ive ripped it to bits. had to start again with been a nightmare. but all sorted now
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| Posted 8/9/2018 11:16:35 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 3/30/2024 1:19:14 PM
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| Posted 8/10/2018 7:04:10 AM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 7/23/2023 9:24:00 PM
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| had to get the hubs changed to 5 on 5 lugs and a Custommade top hat to suit the discs and willwood breaks set up. £1000 just for the breaks and discs , inall the back axle has cost me around £3000, but its worth it its all right now
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| Posted 10/4/2018 1:42:24 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 3/30/2024 1:19:14 PM
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Ok guys so small update on my prep...
Went to go fetch the 'donor' car out of storage and got cracking away at stripping it for the parts that i will be needing.
And so once I got it in the yard I started removing a few panels...
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***Passion and Creativity is what sets us Apart...***
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| Posted 10/4/2018 1:49:45 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 3/30/2024 1:19:14 PM
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Now I opted to use this car as my donor unit instead of getting it repaired and back on the road.
Reasons for this decision was:
1 - Car is already paid for and can use a lot of parts from it...
2 - Repairing it first to sell it would mean a later start date on the project, and less funds to start with as I would have to put it all into repairs first, and after doing my calculations and getting quotes to repair... Well Im sure you get the point.
3 - I really do like the ergonomics and overall look, feel and features that the car has.
(My wife drives one daily and this is a spare, so hence why (and what) I know Im getting from it)
So in the pics you will see what the cluster / dials look like one the key is put into the ignition and 2nd pic is what it looks like once turned on. *Pics taken from the wife's car for reference and show as the other car doesnt have a battery in it.
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***Passion and Creativity is what sets us Apart...***
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