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Posted 9/2/2009 8:09:24 AM


Getting Better at Internets

Getting Better at Internets


Last Login: 9/13/2019 2:33:57 AM
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oh that rear shot looks so friggin awesome!!! its a BEAST!!!! 

Happy Late Birthday to you Conrad!  Sorry i missed ya

Don Currie likes to steal my work!

Post #76446
Posted 9/2/2009 12:02:11 PM


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Thanks guys...i rarely post my birthday on the net....something about too much information about myself out there...but thank you kindly.

Dave, interesting idea. I did in fact think of a sway bar but thought the panhard bar would be easier cause it's one bar. Then again due to the shape/ positioning of the sway bar it might do better. i'm now going to crawl under my jeep and take a look. in either case i will be fabricating something to stop the rear shift/sway.

Since my shocks are mounted now, i need to figure my spring travel. i was reading about this but needed the guy at MooreParts to explain it to me for clarification. i think i need about 8-10 inches of travel? if i understood them correctly that is: 4/5 inches up and 4/5 inches down....i think? I'm gonna talk to them again to be sure. I want to pull the jack out from under this thing and let it sit on it's own sooo bad, but need to be absolutely sure about the spring rate i need.



...does it come in black?

Post #76448
Posted 9/2/2009 6:43:37 PM


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and on another note...after adding oil, gas and fiddling with the throttle a bit this engine started for the first time after 8 pulls. now that it's warm it starts on 1 or 2 pulls. sounds pretty good to (stock anyway).

.........


...does it come in black?

Post #76449
Posted 9/2/2009 6:44:50 PM


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support for the rear hoop. this should help.




...does it come in black?

Post #76450
Posted 9/2/2009 8:56:24 PM


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here's my model panhard/sway bar.  i wedged it in and saw how the frame doesn't move when i move the jack around. removing it shows how this one bar stops horizontal shift of the axle and frame....cool.

from the right side of the axle

to the left side of the frame.




...does it come in black?

Post #76451
Posted 9/3/2009 4:39:36 PM


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it appears that using a chain may not be good for my purposes. From what i'm reading (in more than one place) oversized, knobby tires are a big no-no. this from heeters.com:

Always remember that off road lugged tires, tall oversized tires, weighted tires, low engine RPM, extra vehicle weight, etc., will have an effect on overall performance of the drive train and result in failures.


and this from gokartsupply.com

Changing the size of the tires. Putting on tires that are larger than what came with the kart will result in clutch problems. Tires exceeding 13" in diameter stress out a clutch if the kart is not properly geared for the larger tires. If you are driving on smooth flat terrain than you may be able to get by with 14" tires but once you get on hilly terrain, deep grass, then you are putting additional strain on the clutch, which will cause premature wear. Big tires look cool on a go kart but you create your own problem changing to a bigger tire when the clutch isn't designed to handle them. If you have tires over 15" tall you are required to use a torque converter instead of a centrifugal clutch


So now like a woman who spent hours picking out what to wear to dinner, i'm changing my mind about that chain drive. I can always try that if belt doesn't work out. I'm also happy to try belt first as that's what drove that rear originally. sorry if I'm repeating things but i'm thinking out loud on this keyboard.




...does it come in black?

Post #76456
Posted 9/3/2009 7:17:42 PM


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Last Login: 11/14/2019 11:13:26 AM
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Hey Conrad, I love all the new pics. Looking good....

I am a little confused on the articles you had put up. They seem to be talking about torque converters and centrificul cluthches. The issue of belt or chain has to do with the method of transfering that engine/clutch energy to the rear wheels.

 I think most off-road bikes use chains and so do many of the old quads. I'm not familar enough with belt drive although I know new Harleys and street bikes have them. I'm wondering in a custom built go-cart is it possible to change the gearing of belt drives by using larger pulleys? If your centrifical clutch is being overworked it would seem that changing out the primary or secondary sprockets on a chain drive would be easier route to make corrections. How would you adjust with a belt drive? I'm not sure....

I am interested in this issue because eventually the Battack will have to use some sort of drive system. My thoughts were that if my engine and tranny were fine in terms of torque and speed I could simply use a primary and secondary gear that were the same size. But if my engine was struggling to move the vehicle I could go with a larger secondary sprocket to create more torque at the rear wheels. The engine would not have to work as hard. At least that's what I always thought...I could be wrong though......BWD

Post #76457
Posted 9/7/2009 12:38:42 PM


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hey Dave....from what i've seen, most centrificul cluthches are for chain driven vehicles. there are centrificul cluthches with pulleys, but most have sprockets on them. they engage like a drum brake at high rpm's. when i read the articles about the wheel size, i thought that belt might be the way to go.

there is a way to adjust the belt torque converters....i think there's a spring or something that let's you adjust how fast it engages? i don't know right now but when i get to that point i'll be asking someone in the business about it...

here are the parts i ordered for the panhard-sway bar i'm going to fabricate. I was looking at the different rod-ends and thinking that the joints should have zero side to side movement. a lot of them have different degrees of movement via a little ball right in the eye of the joint. i didn't think this was good for a sway bar. when Dave suggested using the one from my Jeep, i looked at it and tried to order the same kind of joints.

the tube adapter will fit tubing i already have (1.25" DOM)




...does it come in black?

Post #76471
Posted 9/7/2009 10:08:03 PM


Has NO LIFE!!

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Hey Conrad that looks good. Sway bars for Jeeps are pretty inexpensive and do make a big difference for Jeeps that are driven mostly on the street. I guess what I meant was to buy a larger aftermarket swaybar for your Jeep and use the swaybar and joints that are presently on your Jeep on your mini Tumbler. It would be a little overkill but you know me and overkill....hehehe....BWD
Post #76475
Posted 9/18/2009 11:53:22 AM


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Yeah Dave i did in fact look at the Jeep's bar but there are bends in it that would interfere with the links on my vehicle. I need a straight piece.

anywho...I haven't been posting because my PC in my Garage was donated to a friend. i need to get a new one soon. I'm at work now and wanted to post pics from the past couple days. I got my performance kit for the Honda - just an air filter and header/muffler....i'm supposed to increase the size of the caburater jets to get even more out of the engine but we'll see how we do with just the filter and header.

I also got my SPRINGS!!! very excited....for the first time this thing is sitting on it's own. MUST replace home depot crap bolts with grade 8 all around for links and shocks. will also be rienforcing my shock mounts. i'm seeing the importance of having a solid jig to have everything completely level. Even with the top shock brackets compensating, there was noticable movement the moment i took the jack out from underneath and the vehicle rested on shocks. the level bubble moved to the right. Something I'm going to try and correct when mounting the panhard/swaybar.




...does it come in black?

Post #76588
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