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Posted 9/18/2009 12:37:34 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
      
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Hey Conrad that looks sweet. I love how the shock mounts are under the hoop. Looks very strong. Are you sure you can't adapt that swaybar from the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the two lower four links. The reason is manufacturers use a special steel for the sway bars that have like calculated flexibility without bending. Is it possible to get a shot of your Jeep's sway bar? Sorry I'm a pain.....hehehe Are your shocks adjustable. I can't see if there are threads on the shock housing. As a temporary fix you can put those coil spacers that use a 1/2 inch ratchet to install to lift the coil on the lower side. They sell them at auto part stores they are made out of aluminum and sold in pairs. Two seconds to install. Just a temporary fix ...BWD
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Posted 9/18/2009 4:52:36 PM |
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you a pain? WHAT?? Look what I will do for you, master of all things built to withstand atomic blasts. in my work digs no less!! 
here's what i saw: the bar goes accross and bends up. it feels VERY solid, almost feels like it's one solid piece - not hollow. anyways it goes from the axle up to the right ( accross) into the chassis of the Jeep. 


I do like what you said about how the bar is specifically made for this use. Granted, my vehicle no where near the weight of this Cherokee so i thought the DOM would be sufficient. in any case I'll be working on that when i get the right rod ends: the bushings i showed on the previous post were HUGE!!! WAAAYYY to big for my uses. I reordered and should be getting the right parts Monday. in the mean time i will be cutting and grinding the brackets for mounting the swaybar. also will be strengthening the four link brackets on the chassis by adding bracing in between. Going home now....Enjoy the weekend everyone!!!
...does it come in black?
 
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Posted 9/18/2009 8:46:25 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
      
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Hey Conrad, you are way crazy...hehehe I thought you were going to say why don't you come over here and take a pic yourself...hehehehe I need to dig through my garage and dig up that custom swaybar for the Rumbler. I'll take some pics of it so you can see the setup with a four link. I think you can cut half of your swaybar where it is straight and use it. DOM is super strong but when its bent its bent. You take a swaybar and its made to twist and retain its form and its very tough to bend. The swaybar I have is geared on the ends but you could weld it solid onto your straight swaybar. The idea is you would be able to upgrade your Jeeps swaybar and use the old one for your cart. Summit Racing sells some good swaybars for the Jeep. I think you will be surprised at the improved performance. Most of the new swaybars come with polyurethane fittings. The ones with grease fittings are the best for long term use. Teflon bushings are the best though because of their ability to not need lubrication. I think you are going to freak when you see the Rumblers swaybar but you can definitely fabricate something very close......Thanks for the effort on those pics....BWD
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Posted 9/20/2009 10:29:57 AM |
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no reason to thank me Dave. It's nice to get up from my desk during the day. again you've got me thinking of using a piece specifically made to handle a task. the ends on the Jeep bar are too huge but if i had to use that bar i'd cut them off and weld my own on. i mocked up a a bar with a piece of thin tubing and 2 C-clamps. It was pretty cool to see how adding this bar locks the vehicles frame and axle right into place. i shoved the vehicle from side to side from the hoop and it didn't budge...even with the crappy tube and hand tightened C-Clamps, there's a huge reduction in lateral movement...practiacally zero. the more i think about how much stress this bar will endure during cornering, stopping, going....pretty much everything, the more i want to use a piece of tubing that is specifically built to withstand it all. So i didn't want to move this thing without some kind of panhard/sway bar. with the clamps on i turned it around so i have more room to work on the rear. it was pretty cool to see it roll on it's own for the very first time. it looked cool outside in the sun too. 

...does it come in black?
 
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Posted 9/20/2009 10:35:28 AM |
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Posted 9/20/2009 3:19:50 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
      
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Hey Conrad that is bad a$$. Man that thing looks mean...Rick and I are doing the fiberglass thing today but I will try and dig that sway bar out from under my 89 engine. Hope you don't mind if I post it on this build to make it easier for you to access....BWD.
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Posted 9/21/2009 3:10:06 PM |
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Yeah...Bad A$$ for a beefey go kart i guess!! Please don't go crazy looking for your bar....your advice is as good as the real thing...ok it's not, but you know what i mean!! Those bars are decently priced. I may end up just getting one and hacking the ends to mod my own.
...does it come in black?
 
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Posted 9/21/2009 7:31:54 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
      
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Hey Conrad I did get that sway bar out and I will try to download a pic after my appointment....BWD
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Posted 9/22/2009 1:22:20 AM |
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Hey Conrad here's the sway bar for the Rumbler. The two chassis mounts are set up to allow the sway bar to rotate within the bushings, The ends of the swaybar has been machined to accept the two lateral bars. Incidently these two bars are made of billet aircraft grade aluminum. Yours could be steel welded to the swaybar. Then there are two vertical links that attach between the lateral bars and the two lower fourlink. These vertical links are way to long but that's so that they can be cut down and adapted to different applications. The vertical links are threaded inside so that the hiem joints can be adjusted then lock down with the lock nut. Also these hiem joints are left and right hand threaded to prevent them from rotating out. I think I got all that right, forgive me if my naming of the components are wrong but I'm old and its getting late....hehehe....BWD 
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Posted 9/22/2009 1:31:22 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
      
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Here's a close up of the end pieces. 
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