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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: Yesterday @ 3:42:19 PM
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| Hey Tony great pics. I feel like we have a celebrity in our group. This is an exciting log and I look forward to seeing all your pics. I love ZZ Tops....Thanks for all your contributions to this site......BWD
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: Yesterday @ 3:42:19 PM
Posts: 5,397,
Visits: 4,907
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| Hey Lincolnmrk66, I hope you don't mind me chimming in. I agree Jack is the man. In starting my original 89 projects I had asked a lot of guys about the attachment of the fiberglass over a substructure. My thoughts were to just weld the 1' metal tubing over the fenders. Just welding the tubing directly to the metal and then foaming the shape and let the fiberglass attach to the tubing in some areas. It would work but the long term problem is that the brittleness of the fiberglass would be compromised as you bumped along the highway. The fiberglass could crack and delaminate away from the tubing causing stress cracks in the body. The second thing would be the unnecessary extra weight of the original fenders, metal tubing, molding foam, fiberglass and the some finishing bondo. To a car that already has a boat like feel this would be like driving around with a bunch of your big freinds in the car...All the time. Thirdly the substructure would have to be cleaned and primered to preventing rusting occurring inside your fenders. They call them bleeder cause they are bleeding rust. Some of which may be further complicated by creating a hothouse between the fiberglass shell and steel fender. The way I was advised to build it was remove the fenders. Use the plywood and shaping foam then form the fenders, hood, door sleeves and quarter panels. Fiberglass the skins and then attach it using steel tabs welded to the body and use a rubber sleeved bolt to attach the fiberglass. Now it can move a little to absorb shocks as you roll down the road. I don't know if this will help you but it was something passed on to me. Still talk to Jack and others....BWD
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Forum Member
Last Login: 4/20/2013 3:39:12 AM
Posts: 448,
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Thanks for the input, Dave...I welcome any help, so please feel free to chime in at any time I really want to get this project off the ground, and value everyones opinions and expertise. Thanks again!! You're right, getting rid if the stock fenders/quarter panels will definetly save a lot of weight and headaches. -Matt
Chicks Love THE CAR! www.myspace.com/thecar1977
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 10/27/2014 6:30:59 PM
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Visits: 18,798
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| Hey guys, sorry that I haven't been around much to reply. Thanks for the kind words but the truth is I learn something new every time I work in the shop. I'm no different then you guys. Some times you just have to try. It took chopping the top of a 1935 Chrysler to get me past my fear of messing up. Now I'll try anything. I think if I were to build the CAR I would probably do it the way the original was none. Make a wire frame and then sculpt some 20 or 22 gauge steel over it. That's how most of our favorite cars like the CAR were done. Jay has a James Dean, Elvis, and Marilyn Tribute cars on his site that was done the same way. The bad news is you have to use a lot of bondo to make them straight. Hey just do it.
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Forum Member
Last Login: 4/20/2013 3:39:12 AM
Posts: 448,
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Thanks Jack...so metal it is! I hate working with fiberglass anyway I'll just have to do a bit more research on metalworking. I would still love to try doing a chop top on the '79 Lincoln...You're absolutely right, I need to get over the fear, and just do it When you did yours, Jack, how did you brace up the interior, can you diagram it for me somehow, maybe post pics? The book I have stresses the importance of bracing, but doesn't exactly show you how...thanks for all the input, guys!-Matt
Chicks Love THE CAR! www.myspace.com/thecar1977
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Junior Member
Last Login: 2/16/2009 1:32:42 PM
Posts: 40,
Visits: 200
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HI MATT,
HERE ARE A COUPLE OF PICTURES OF GEORGE SHOWING ME HOW TO CHOP A TOP.
CHECK OUT THE TOOLS HE TOLD ME TO USE...
 
KUSTOMTBIRD WAGON
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Junior Member
Last Login: 2/16/2009 1:32:42 PM
Posts: 40,
Visits: 200
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ALSO MATT,
LOOK INSIDE THE CAR THAT GEORGE IS MEASURING OUT THE CHOP.
THATS HOW TO REINFORCE THE INSIDE OF THE CAR. YOU ALSO NEE IT TO RUN FRONT TO REAR. YOU
ONLY NEED IT THERE WHEN THE ROOF IS NOT ON. ONCE YOU PUT THE ROOF ON & WELD IT ,THEN YOU CAN REMOVE THE BARS...
TONY
PS MATT MY FRIEND IS SELLING THIS FOR $2500.
RUNS PERFECT 1971 LINCOLN.
ONLY HAS 80K ORIGINAL MILES...
KUSTOMTBIRD WAGON
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Junior Member
Last Login: 9/30/2011 9:36:05 PM
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Forum Member
Last Login: 4/20/2013 3:39:12 AM
Posts: 448,
Visits: 2,503
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Thanks for the pics, Tony....I don't think the hatchet is gonna work,tho...gives new meaning to chopping the top So, you brace the center and each side, along the inner door line? That Mark III looks perfect! Is it in CA...if so, shipping is also an issue for me. I'll look into the shipping cost, and maybe we can work something out. Thanks! -Matt
Chicks Love THE CAR! www.myspace.com/thecar1977
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Junior Member
Last Login: 2/16/2009 1:32:42 PM
Posts: 40,
Visits: 200
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HI MATT,
YES THE HOLE INSIDE OF THE CAR NEEDS TO BE SUPPORTED.
BUILDING A SQUARE INSIDE IS PROBABLY THE BEST BET.
BTW
THE CAR FOR SALE IS IN IDAHO.
I THINK THAT SHIPPING FOR IT IS ABOUT $1,000.00. BUT DON'T QUOTE ME ON IT.
BUT THE CAR RUNS GREAT...
TONY
KUSTOMTBIRD WAGON
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