DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A TUMBLER OR ANOTHER BAT VEHICLE?
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Posted 9/27/2017 6:12:08 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Bopenstein

“What's the go with copyright on building the tumbler. I'm pretty sure
you only have to change it 10% so I'm wondering if just the way the
engine has to be set up with a V drive is enough. Or should the body
be altered a little bit (which I don't want to do)”

There is no 10% rule and altering the mechanics or body a little does
not change anything and does not afford any protection under the
letter of copyright law.

Letter of the Law
Copyright infringement is the use of works protected by copyright law
without permission, infringing certain exclusive rights granted to the
copyright holder, such as the right to exploit, reproduce, distribute,
display or perform the protected work, or to create substantially
similar works, collected works, or sequels, known as derivative works.

Spirit of the Law
I have never seen DC and/or Warner Brothers go after a fan built Bat
Vehicle. They do not seem to be interested in going after fan built
Bat Vehicles but I’m pretty sure that would change quickly for you if
you started building Bat Vehicles for profit.

The Batmobile is copyrighted under United States law by DC Comics, a
status often thought to usually be reserved to sentient fictional
characters. This was established in court when a mechanic making
Batmobile replicas roughly based on the '60s Adam West version of the
Batmobile was sued by DC Comics in 2011. The mechanic had argued that
the Batmobile was a "functional" element of the show and thus
ineligible for copyright; however, the court ruled that the Batmobile
was an "automotive character" with its own style, backstory, and theme
that remained consistent across versions: a "bat-like appearance" and
"always contains the most up-to-date weaponry and technology.”

https://www.techdirt.com/articles/20150923/15591132350/appeals-court-says-batmobile-is-character-covered-copyright.shtml
Post #159520
Posted 9/27/2017 7:05:42 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I place a copy of this post here for the potential benefit to anyone
planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle.

Building Burn out Proxy Positional Welding Jigs to Improve Your Bat
Vehicle Fabrications also known as the Skin and Burn method.

I am currently thinking about using it in my DOJ Batmobile build.

Here is how the Proxy Positional Welding Jig / SKIN and BURN would
work on the DOJ body.

Build the body and other pieces in wood, cardboard, or foam.

Wood proxy positional welding jig method

Cut steel pieces, fit to wood body, and secure with adhesive. Repeat
procedure until all translated metal pieces are attached.

Then use a MIG welder with a dwell timer set to 1/4 to 1/2 second on
high heat to tact weld the panels in place.

The wood is then burned out slowly or cut away inside in pieces. I
probably would cut away the wood so I could weld inside as I cut away
the wood pieces.

Foam proxy positional welding jig method

Cut steel pieces, fit to foam body, and secure with adhesive. Repeat
procedure until all translated metal pieces are attached. Then use a
MIG welder with a dwell timer set to 1/4 to 1/2 second on high heat.
Tactical welding techniques must be used to avoid distortion effects.
The foam is then dissolved with solvent, but could be burned out
slowly or cut away inside in pieces. I probably would use solvent.

I figure if I modified my 4’ x 4’ CNC plasma table by replacing the
arc height control with a deep Z axis I could mill the DOJ from 3’ x
3’ x 18” blocks from cheap grade foam. Then coat it with a sealer and
several coats of reinforced high-temperature furnace cement to
increase the thermo-resistance to the high heat ¼ to ½ second dwell
timed MIG welding.

Estimated cost: 2000.oo for foam, sealer, furnace cement, and milling
bits. Does not include price of steel panels. vertigo


  Post Attachments 
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JIG-4.jpg (0 views, 87.11 KB)
Post #159525
Posted 9/28/2017 7:21:07 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I place a copy of this post here for the potential benefit to anyone
planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle.

MaineBat

“whats the plan for measuring the unsprung weight for the coilover
spring rates? I ended up having to redo my coilover springs due to a
lil miscalculation but no big deal, a couple new springs on and good
to go.”

Hey MaineBat,

Glad to have your participation on the forum.

What was the vehicle and what was your “lil miscalculation”?

In a ground vehicle with a suspension, the unsprung mass (unsprung
weight) is the weight of the suspension, wheels, tires, axle(s),
springs, shock absorbers, suspension links, a portion of the
driveshaft weight, and other components directly connected to them,
rather than supported by the suspension.

The sprung mass (sprung weight) is the body and other components
supported by the suspension.

I have a log book that I recorded the weights of the unsprung elements
in as I have progressed on my Tumbler build.

When I am close to finishing my Tumbler I will either take the vehicle
to a weigh station or rent a set of vehicle scales.

Total Tumbler Weight – unsprung weight = total sprung weight.

I can use my log book of component weights to determine the actual
unsprung weight at each wheel and front/rear totals.

I was told that there are also hydraulic proxy shocks with scales and
pressure gauges that can be used to determine compression travel and
spring rates. (I have not researched these yet but will when I am
close to ready for shocks/springs, etc.) May be easier and cheaper to
just take my Tumbler to a professional chassis shop and have them
install the coil springs and shocks since they will have the measuring
tools to determine the correct components.

Here is some instructions from a chassis shop:

How to determine spring rate

Determining Travel:

It is recommended that there be approximately 3" of compression travel
available (including the bumpstop). This means the chassis must be
supported by a spring rate that will allow the chassis to be supported
3" upward from the bottoming position

Determining the Vehicle Sprung Weight:

Establish front and rear weight of the vehicle. Establish unsprung
weight. This is the weight not supported by the springs. i.e., tires,
wheels, wheelie bars, brakes, and 1/2 of the weight of the shock,
spring, driveline, and ladder bar or four link. 1/2 the weight is used
for some components because their weights are equally shared between
sprung and unsprung weight. Determine spring weight, that is the
weight of the vehicle less the unsprung weight.

Determining Spring Rate:

Divide the rear sprung weight by 2 to determine the load for each rear
corner. Divide the front sprung weight by 2 to determine the load for
each front corner. If the load for the rear corners is 330 lbs.
each(660 lbs./2 = 330 lbs.) then divide the 330 lbs. by the
compression travel needed and you arrive at the base spring rate of
110 lbs. per inch. Ex: 330 lbs./3" compression travel = 110 lbs.
spring rate.
Post #159535
Posted 9/28/2017 7:59:35 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I placed a copy of this post here because it might be of some use to someone planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle.

A month, or so, back I bought 5 used dually steel wheels at a car parts junk yard after spending a day sorting through the used steel wheels at several. One of the workers told me they came off a 1981 2-1/2 ton delivery van but he did not know the make or model. These are very heavy duty steel wheels stamped out of 1/4" plate steel. To be 36-years old and to probably have traveled many thousands of miles all of them were in excellent shape other than a little rust and a few scratches. Used an acetylene torch to cut the centers from these wheels and then trimmed and ground them to fit some new 12 inch wide single wheel 16.5 heavy duty truck rims. Once I get all 4 wheels to this stage I will begin more detailed fitting and accuracy alignments. There are a number of concentricity and angular alignments that must be correct before welding can begin. vertigo


  Post Attachments 
PICT0002 (27).JPG (2 views, 341.36 KB)
PICT0003 (26).JPG (1 view, 317.23 KB)
Post #159540
Posted 10/2/2017 6:31:51 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I place a copy of this post here for the potential benefit to anyone
planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle.

So, how do you get the best accuracy from your Positional Welding Jigs
to Improve Your Bat Vehicle Fabrications?

ELIMINATE AS MANY AS POSSIBLE SOURCES OF MOVEMENT AND PLAY

Build your positional welding jigs, rigid and strong, enough to
prevent them from being easily deflected by lines of applied force and
torque. (bending and twisting motion)

Secure your work pieces in your jig(s) with plenty of tight clamps,
bolts, hold downs, etc. Every piece that can be easily moved with the
fingers will be no match for the metal drawing forces of welding and
will surely move out of alignment if not heavily secured. Shaking,
tugging, and pulling on your mounted up jigged parts will usually
reveal any wobbly weaknesses. Use tack welds and tactical welding
techniques to balance welding induced lines of force.

When using tube and solid bar jigs to align part assemblies that have
some distance between them (like my Tumbler’s two separate front arm
and axle assemblies) all concentric wobble must be eliminated if you
need an accurate linear alignment.

I used oiled thin sheet metal wrapped around the solid bar enough so
that it took a light tapping with a hammer to ease it into the
alignment tube.

It takes a rigid strong jig, well secured parts free of movement
and play, and tactical welding to equalize the lines of drawing
(contracting) forces to produce high accuracy assemblies.   vertigo
Post #159576
Posted 10/7/2017 7:34:38 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I placed a copy of this post here for the benefit of anyone that might
be able to use this information in planning and/or building a Bat
Vehicle.

A month, or so, back I bought 5 used dually steel wheels at a car parts junk yard after spending a day sorting through the used steel wheels at several. One of the workers told me they came off a 1981 2-1/2 ton delivery van but he did not know the make or model. These are very heavy duty steel wheels stamped out of 1/4" plate steel. To be 36-years old and to probably have traveled many thousands of miles all of them were in excellent shape other than a little rust and a few scratches. Used an acetylene torch to cut the centers from these wheels and then trimmed and ground them to fit some new 12 inch wide single wheel 16.5 heavy duty truck rims. Once I get all 4 wheels to this stage I will begin more detailed fitting and accuracy alignments. There are a number of concentricity and angular alignments that must be correct before welding can begin. vertigo

Finished detailed fitting and accuracy alignments. Worked out concentricity and angular alignments. Then clamped everything in place for each wheel. Satisfied, I used 180 degree opposed tact welds to divide the wheel radius by quarters. Then by eights and then by sixteenths. After completing all the tact welds and letting them all cool down to the touch I re-measured each wheel for measurement integrity. Finally, managed to find enough time to run one welding pass on each of the four wheels. vertigo


  Post Attachments 
PICT0001 (26).JPG (1 view, 207.33 KB)
PICT0003 (28).JPG (1 view, 171.71 KB)
Post #159617
Posted 10/9/2017 5:57:09 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Placed a copy of this post here for the potential benefit to those
planning to/and/or/ building a Bat Vehicle.

Paulwayne
 “Hi Vertigo its actually just a large co2 fire extinguisher. I
extended the hose from the extinguisher which sits beside me in car. I
bought a cheap set of recovery flashing strobes and wired them into
the centre of afterburner. I simply switch on strobes then squeeze
handle of extinguisher. Still looks decent at day time as stobes are
very bright.”

reference material:
In Hollywood TV/Film and music/dramatic stage shows CRYO LED CO2 JETs
are used quite frequently. I have attached photo images of the
“INDUSTRY STANDARD” for this special effect. Note: Look closely at the image of the CRYO LED CO2 JET. Note the LED arrays located at the base of the nozzle.

In the world of special effects the Industry Standard refers to: A
technical standard used in technical contexts. Most special effects
companies have a go to reference library. So, if a director said I
need a cold flame jet effect they would usually start by referencing
the relevant Industry Standard(s).   vertigo


  Post Attachments 
cryo jet-2.png (0 views, 276.92 KB)
cryo jet.png (0 views, 359.82 KB)
cryo jet-3.png (0 views, 324.91 KB)
Post #159638
Posted 10/16/2017 5:26:44 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Placed a copy of this post here for the potential benefit to those
planning to/and/or/ building a Bat Vehicle.

When we think of skewing a Bat Vehicle we usually thinks about shape
and dimension but this Batmobile has also been skewed in the color
spectrum as well.
vertigo


  Post Attachments 
71sa6DU2k1L__SL1500_.jpg (1 view, 76.67 KB)
712mcZUKtFL__SL1500_.jpg (0 views, 106.84 KB)
Post #159665
Posted 10/16/2017 5:40:16 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Comparison of Quarter and Sixth Scale Batman Related Figures

A picture is worth a thousand words.
The attached photo images speak for themselves.

Quarter scale is quite impressive but only if the detail is great.

Should at least be equal to and preferably greater than that found on
the most detailed available 1/6 figure.

Who could not desire to own Bat Vehicles in 1/4 scale? Unless 1/3 1/2
or 1:1 were available.

There has been talk among collectors for the past few years on their
wish lists for 1:1 scale Bat Vehicle replicas. Most agree it is
probably not likely to happen with an average likely 10,000.oo price
tag. Simply not enough buyers in the market with 10,000.oo to spare.

(Probably, this idea has also met with a lot of resistance from DC/WB
since they would be ready made to be used in fiberglass mold making.)

Current trend among collectors is mostly 1/6 with a few 1/4.

This is mostly driven by available space and figure availability in
each scale.   vertigo


  Post Attachments 
quarter scale.png (1 view, 673.70 KB)
quarter scale-2.png (1 view, 524.63 KB)
Post #159669
Posted 10/17/2017 5:44:33 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Placed a copy of this post here for the potential benefit to those
planning to/and/or/ building a Bat Vehicle.

hey sly,

Very impressive and wicked Bat Signal.

I especially like the use of interlocking multiple structural miters
to increase the strength of the signal support structure.

This method works just as well when welding square and rectangular
steel tubing. This is a great example of a building technique that
could find use by many planning to and/or actually building a Bat
Vehicle.  Vertigo

See Sly’s complete Bat Signal Build on the Main Forum under topic
title: Simple Bat Signal Build
10-16-2017   6:20:17 PM


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