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 Posted 7/28/2016 5:54:35 PM |
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PLASTIC SCALE MODEL CAR DESIGN
FROM INCEPTION TO PRODUCTION
To fully appreciate the level of information and skilled work
contained in a scale model plastic car, such as the Batmobile, one
must fully grasp the creative processes of the model maker.
From inception to production, creating a new scale model kit can take
a full year and cost the model manufacturer an investment of up to
$250,000. For the scale model of a classic automobile, for example,
the design process begins with pure research: taking hundreds of
photographs of a working example of the car. The car is photographed
inside and out; pictures are taken of every detail and from many
angles, and measurements are photographed along with the object for
the designer to use in the studio to reproduce the car exactly.
For a new car design, car manufacturers give model makers computerized
information on part specifications—sometimes even before the first
actual automobile has been assembled—in a highly confidential process.
The model designer uses computer-aided drafting and design (CADD)
software to sort this information and create the measurements and
configuration that will be used to make a scale design. The designer
transfers this information to a set of drawings that will be used to
make the molds for the model. This process can consume several hundred
hours of engineering time.
From photographs, computer data, and paper drawings, the design moves
to pattern-making phase. Skilled artists follow the designer's
drawings and carve out a pattern model from balsa or other soft wood.
The pattern model is made at two to three times larger than the scale
of the model kit, allowing additional details to be added to the
pattern. This also proves the accuracy of design and provides a basis
for all of the molds that will be made of the car parts. As they carve
the pieces, the pattern makers fit them together. Accuracy in
pattern-making is within several ten-thousandths of an inch (fractions
of a millimeter).
When the wooden pattern model is complete, each part is coated with an
epoxy resin, a plastic material that hardens as it cures. The wooden
piece is removed from the resin, and the resin has trapped the shape
of the piece in a cavity mold. A core mold of resin is made from the
cavity mold; the two fit closely together, but there is a small space
between them. The plastic model part will be formed in this space.
Preparation of the wooden pattern and the resin molds takes over 1,000
hours.
Meanwhile, other design engineers use the design drawings to lay out
the "tool," the metal cast of a number of parts that will be molded on
a single form of plastic called a tree. The tree is usually roughly
rectangular along its outer edge so it will fit in a box. Several
standard box sizes are used. From the central "trunk" of the tree, a
number of plastic "branches" or arms protrude. The end of each branch
narrows to a node where it joins a piece of the model. The model piece
can be snapped off for assembly. The tool designers also use CAD to
map out the tool layout. They must design the orientation of each
model piece on the tree to precise angles so that, when the plastic is
injected in the tool, it fills all the cavities. The trees are also
designed to release quickly from the mold.
The resin molds are used to make the individual tools for each of the
model parts, using a pantograph to copy the exact shape of each piece
and draw it at the smaller scale of the actual model. The pantograph
has two needle-like parts: one is run over the surface of the resin
mold while the second, a cutting blade, carves the steel to the same
shape at the correct scale. When the tool maker has completed the
scaled tool, he polishes it to a high sheen and adds more details by
hand. Some of these details are too fine to be seen by the naked eye.
Another set of designers works on the paper portions of the kit. To
develop the instructions, the designers take the pattern model (and
sometimes samples of the first production run of the plastic model)
apart and reassemble it. They describe the steps as they go, writing
and drawing them as instructions. Other artists look at the
photographs of the real automobile and design decals for the model.
These may be copies of real decals on the car, or they may be other
design features like racing stripes. Sometimes, more research is
needed to capture these details. The illustrations on the box lid are
also created. These serve the model builder as a color reference
guide, so they must be true to both the original automobile and the
decals made for the model. The illustrations on the lid may be
photographs of the real car or artists' impressions. The box lid for a
model of the Batman Tumbler, for example, may show Batman posed with
the vehicle or in an action setting. Elsewhere on the lid, the artists
describe the kit, its level of difficulty, the parts enclosed, and the
manufacturer's details.
INTRINSIC VALUE OF THE SCALED PLASTIC MODEL WHEN USED TO BUILD A BAT
VEHICLE riceless?
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| Posted 7/29/2016 7:24:11 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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vertigo's methods:
USING THE MOEBIUS MODELS TO GENERATE SCALABLE MEASUREMENTS,
BLUE PRINTS, AND MODULES
Obtain 4 shallow (approx. 4” deep) plastic boxes with lids and label them.
WHOLE VIEW
MODULE DIVISION
DISSECTION
SECTIONAL SLICING
Place the kit contents into each box.
Now, while you watch TV, etc. This is going to take some time.
This next step will help you become very acquainted with the DOJ Batmobile.
Carefully separate all the plastic parts in each kit from the plastic
casting trees using a sharp Exacto knife and small sharp diagonal
cutting pliers while being careful not to cut too close.
This next step will enhance your relationship even further.
Carefully, using sharp exacto knifes, half inch wide flat files, emery
boards (fingernail files), and sand paper, etc. affectionately remove
and polish off the remnants of the plastic casting trees that still
remain on each individual part. Completely, on the kit you will build
completely as your whole view, and partially, on the three other kits,
with focus on the parts you will use in MODULE DIVISION, DISSECTION,
and SECTIONAL SLICING. Don’t try to rush this stage with a powered
Dremel tool (small hand grinder) or you will degrade the quality of
your work significantly. Note: You will need to totally build the
SECTIONAL SLICING model if you plan to SECTIONAL SLICE the model as a
whole intact vehicle. You may need a second SECTIONAL SLICING model.
That will depend on your strategy of slicing. vertigo
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| Posted 7/29/2016 8:56:58 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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I have looked at many concept Batmobiles in art on the web. Many have experimented with KIT BASHING. I have included this method for those of you that might be thinking about creating your own Batmobile from scratch.
The Batman Tumbler was conceived by Nathan Crowley through KIT BASHING or MODEL BASHING, a practice whereby a new scale model is created by taking pieces out of commercial kits. These pieces may be added to a custom project or to another kit. For professional model makers, kit bashing is popular to create concept models for detailing movie special effects. Commercial model kits are a ready source of "detailing", providing any number of identical, mass-produced components that can be used to add fine detail to an existing model. Professionals often KIT BASH to build prototype parts which are then recreated with lightweight materials.
For the hobbyist, KIT BASHING saves time that would be spent scratch building an entire model. Hobbyists may KIT BASH to create a model of a subject (real or imaginary) for which there is not a commercial kit.
Although it has a long history, KIT BASHING came to the attention of a wider public via the fine model work seen in TV series such as Thunderbirds and the films 2001: A Space Odyssey and Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope. Many of the spaceship models created for these programs incorporated details from tank, speedboat and car kits. Another example is the Batmobile from the 2005 film Batman Begins, as seen in the special features disc of the film's DVD.
Sometimes source kits are selected primarily due to kit quality, and sometimes because a kit closely resembles the desired model result. KIT BASHING is common in sci-fi modeling.
It is not uncommon for parts to be cut and filed into shapes leaving gaps that are later filled with putty. Although a model with putty often looks unprofessional at an early stage, careful painting can completely hide defects. Textural details known as gribbles may be added to enhance a model.
The popularity of ready-to-run, pre-assembled models, even coupled with the increased availability of many unique prototypes using resin castings, seems not to have seriously impacted the art of KIT BASHING.
These days, the typical Hollywood way to handle a complex car like the Batmobile is to model it and simulate it with a computer.
Nathan started the process of creating the Batmobile by model bashing.
Model bashing is a time-honored technique. You go down to a toy store, hobby shop, R/C specialty shop and the hardware store to buy parts -- lots of parts of every size and shape imaginable. You buy lots of plastic models, toys, R/C car kits, metal tubing, etc. You then cut and shape all of those parts to get the desired look for the car. For example, Nathan found that the nose cone from a plastic P-38 model kit made a perfect shape for the jet engine on the back of the Batmobile. So he cut off the nose cone, hollowed it out, added in other parts to make it look like a jet and glued it onto his model.
Nathan built six models like this, all 1:12 scale, before he got the look and the shapes that he wanted. This process took about four months.
Once he had the scale model, he started on a full-size replica.
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| Posted 7/30/2016 7:49:27 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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vertigo's methods of reverse engineering plastic scale models
I like to use compartment divided cases, in particular the Dewalt cases from Home Depot, to organize model parts that will be used for MODULE BUILDING, DISSECTION, and SECTIONAL SLICING.
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| Posted 7/30/2016 8:52:39 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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PLASTIC MODEL REVERSE ENGINEERING
UP-SCALING and 3D VIRTUAL MODELING
I have given you my methods of reverse engineering plastic scale models to extract knowledge, such as, multi-dimensional detail and measurement, without any high dollar use of 3D
scanning technologies like CMMs, laser scanners,
structured light digitizers, or Industrial CT Scanning (computed
tomography).
With CONSTRUCTED MODEL, MODULE CONSTRUCTION, PART DISSECTION, and SECTIONAL SLICING
completed I now hold what I like to call PICTORIAL BLUE PRINTS. Most all multi-dimensional measurements are present in these PICTORIAL BLUE PRINTS waiting to be released from invisibility by translation. Translation can be as simple as using a ruler to measure between any two points on the models.
The next step is converting the PICTORIAL BLUE PRINTS into translated paper and digital blue prints, part files, CAD, 3D CAD, CAM, CAE or other software and finally into DXF cutting and machine files. vertigo
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| Posted 7/31/2016 7:45:38 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Hello everyone,
I've always liked the metal cutting chop saw and I really like this metal cutting circular saw.
This Milwaukee 8 in. Metal Cutting Circular Saw delivers faster, cooler, cleaner metal cutting. Forget the showers of hot metal chips and sparks that were once an aerial threat on the job. This saw shears with a virtually spark-free wake and cool, burr and scorch-free edges that don't require post-cut finishing. Metal shavings are effectively contained with a durable magnesium blade shield and channeled into the saw's integral chip tank. It makes tough cuts: up to 10-Gauge sheets and 1/4 in. steel plate cuts all day, every day. Even more extreme cuts, up to 3/4 in. steel plates, are possible. Specially formulated cermet tip metallurgy and tooth geometry ensure these incredible blades cut faster, stay sharp longer and resist more impact, resulting in less blade changes.
•Driven by a powerful 13 Amp (1-3/4 max HP), 3700 RPM motor and equipped with a full grill of razor-sharp, cermet-tip teeth
•Durable blade shield with integral chip tank deflects/collects hot chips and sparks
•Plunge lever for fast, effective plunge cuts
•Exclusive quick-release shield latch for fast waste disposal and blade changes
•2-9/16 in. cut depth for 1-pass cuts through most common materials
•Dry-cut technology provides faster, cleaner, more affordable metal cutting
•Cool cutting also means that materials can be handled almost immediately, reducing downtime
•Premium cermet-tipped blades cut faster, cleaner and longer than other carbide-tipped or friction blades
•5-year limited warranty
•Comes with carrying case
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| Posted 8/2/2016 4:57:11 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Any reason to buy a steel cutting circular saw or dry cut saw?
Can’t I just buy the blades and use them in a regular circular saw?
No reason at all if you are independently wealthy and can afford to
waste blades and saws on a regular basis...
First: carbide saws for metal run at about 1/2 the RPMs wood saws do.
At the higher RPM speeds you often dull or strip teeth fairly
regularly. Most guys I know who have even tried the blades "rated" for
higher RPM saws haven't had good luck with the blades lasting all that
long. They cut, but blade life is dismal at best 10-20% of their rated
life at the most.
Second: the problems of lost torque and power. Metal cutting systems
are designed to work in concert for a specific purpose such that the
motors are designed to produce a high torque for power but at a lower
RPM blade speed. Metal cutting saws average 3700 rpm no load, wood
cutting saws do 5800 rpm. Adding a speed reduction system to lower the
rpm of a regular saw creates an attendant reduction in power or more
appropriately torque.
Third: the open vents are a recipe for a short circuit when cutting
metal with a normal saw.
Note you can get away with this more with aluminum than you can with
steel. Most aluminum will cut at speeds just slightly below what you
use with wood, so if you go easy, it's possible to cut alum with
carbide blades at normal wood cutting speeds. But, you are still left
with the risk of a short circuit due to open vents. vertigo
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| Posted 8/2/2016 5:05:19 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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For cutting metal where the metal cutting circular saw blade can’t reach I use these.
These are the blades of choice for use in a reciprocating saw and used by many professionals.
DIABLO-CARBIDE TIPPED-THICK METAL-RECIPROCATING SAW BLADES
6-8 teeth per inch and 6-12 inches long
Diablo's Steel Demon Carbide-tipped reciprocating blades are the first
carbide-tipped blades designed for extreme metal cutting; including
high strength alloys, cast iron, and stainless steel. This high
performance carbide-tipped blade delivers unmatched 20X longer cutting
life than standard bi-metal blades in extreme thick metal cutting
applications between 3/16 in. to 1/2 in.
The blade’s increased body height produces straighter cuts with less vibration.
High performance carbide for greater durability and cutting
performance in thick metal
Enhanced carbide tip to blade connection for extreme impact resistance
1 in. oversized blade body for straighter cuts with less vibration
Perma-SHIELD non-stick coating for less heat and friction
Ideal for cutting steel, stainless steel, cast iron, and other high
strength alloys vertigo
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| Posted 8/3/2016 4:22:49 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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I got these
comments off the Miller welding forum, “We have had both the 8" and
the 14" Milwaukee dry cut saws for almost 2 years and are very
satisfied with them. A slow steady feed is the key to making the
blades last, and don't let up in the middle of the cut or you will be
cutting hardened metal. For the 8" saw you should always ride the saw
against a fence, just a piece of angle clamped to the metal being cut.
Guiding the cut and not cutting free hand will make the blades last a
whole lot longer. Although it doesn't say that you can, we have cut up
to 1" steel plate with it. It's slow, but it does a great job. Harbor
Freight sells 7 1/4" metal cutting blades that will work on it. They
last, and are less than $20 each. The only "negative" I've found with
the Milwaukee, is the lack of a bevel adjustment on the saw (blade
only cuts at 90 deg to the workpiece).” The use of a clamped straight edge guide when using
the metal cutting circular saw is worth remembering. Both for quality of work and
for extending the life of the blade by roughly 5 times. vertigo
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| Posted 8/4/2016 4:04:00 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Here is a post from a professional welder on a welding site that
brings up some feed rate and cooling issues worth remembering. “Get
these blades up to speed and start into the cut carefully. If you
"jab" them you`ll break the tips off the blade. I have used 30 plus of
these blades in my welding shop and they do a great job. My first saw
cut 3/4`s of a mile of 10 gauge steel with these blades plus cutting
bottoms out of metal containers. I had to send the saw in for a
rebuild at that time. They are good for cutting thicker steel also,
but need to run blade free to cool them, like every 6-8 inches in 1/2
inch steel plate. You can cut thicker steel but you need to take your
time and air cool lots. It will cut 10 gauge almost as fast as cutting
plywood - even makes the same sound sometimes. Cuts smooth and leaves
almost no burrs and does not leave steel hot
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