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 Posted 8/4/2016 4:11:36 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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“The DOJ Batmobile has groove lines around the top front plates. I've
been trying to figure out how to reproduce those. The plates would be
too big for anything but an industrial level mill and I don't think I
can afford that. I don't know of a metal router and that would be
risky at best. But this might work on the straight bits and then would
only have to consider the curves.” Sly
An easy way to accomplish pronounced sharp clean groove lines in many
situations is to cut through the groove lines with a sabre saw with
fine tooth blade for 1/16” or less. For thicker metal I use a 1/8”
thick wood template pattern reduced enough to allow centering the
plasma jet shield orifice on the line, temporarily attached with a
little rubber cement, and a plasma torch. (If you need more
information, I covered plasma cutting templates, etc. in the UNIVERSAL
BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING, AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES thread.)
Once I have the panel cut out I reduce the panel by half the width
of the groove I want, while keeping the edge corners vertical. Then I
reduce where the panel was cut from by half the width of the groove
while keeping the edge corners vertical. You could do all the groove
work on the panel alone if you accurately measured and calculated all
the cut parameters correctly. Then I cut out a piece of backer metal
that over laps both sides of the groove by 1-2 inches and weld into
place. You could also not weld in the panel, use Form a Gasket to make
a water seal, and secure with flush screws. I have not checked to see
if the real DOJ Batmobile panels are like this but I suspect they are.
Another method for thin metal is to use an air hammer, preferably with
a trigger controlled variable stroke rate, and a V shaped chisel with
the sharp edges rounded just enough to dent in but not cut the metal.
One could use a similar chisel with a hammer but the longer dwell time
of the human powered strike would introduce more distortion. Trick
with this method is to work slow enough to still have complete control
over following the lines you have drawn with a sharpie and to use
secured straight edges and template guides. Practice on similar
material is required to master this method. To cut rather than dent
the line just leave the V chisel edges sharp. I have seen grooving
done with routers before in composites, aluminum, and steel with
special bits and always with a secured straight edge or template
guide. For steel they used grinder bits. They also wore a heavy
leather welding jacket, welding gloves, and full face eye protection
(a welding helmet with clear lens) and safety glasses under the
helmet. This leads me to believe they were very concerned about their
safety when using the router method, especially with the risks of
grinder bit disintegration. Router bases are available that you can
mount die grinders and drills into to get slower speeds than the
regular router. I would suspect that one might be able to use one of
these with a variable speed drill and a small 4-flute side and bottom
cutting end mill, as long as you used very well secured straight edges
and templates to direct the directional pull of the cutter to pull
towards the very well secured edge at all times. vertigo
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| Posted 8/5/2016 5:49:04 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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hello everyone,
Spent a full eight hours today graphically experimenting with the B v S Batmobile trying to convert a 12-feet wide x 20-feet long vehicle into a dimensional street legal vehicle. Much of my time was spent in aspect bending explorations. Studied a few hundred images of art sculpture and graphic expressions of the Arkam asylum Batmobile and the Gum Ball 3000 Batmobile. When the two are compared it become quite obvious that the Gum Ball 3000 Batmobile made significant use of aspect blending. vertigo
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| Posted 8/5/2016 8:28:56 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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hello everyone,
Even though I am currently using this method in designing a street legal version of the B v S DOJ Batmobile the method is relevant to many other similar projects.
Ordered a couple of B v S Batmobile toys to use in my study of aspect blending for a street legal Batmobile.
One easy way to get a grasp on aspect blending for the B v S DOJ Batmobile is to study related toy vehicle copies. The usual method used to make cheaper toy copies is to simplify a detailed model with aspect blending. To me these relatively cheap toys created from aspect blending methods are logical studies in aspect blending a complex Bat Vehicle into a simpler street legal vehicle. vertigo
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| Posted 8/8/2016 5:14:46 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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SEARCHING FOR THE RIGHT DONOR VEHICLE
Information and advice already exists on choosing a proper donor
vehicle for the early Batmobiles.
But what if you are building your own design? A donor vehicle could
save you several thousand hours.
For that reason, I have posted this as an example strategy to possibly
use in choosing a donor vehicle for your project.
Example:
Information from the web revealed that the proxy vehicles used to
stand in for the real DOJ Batmobile were Dodge Ram 3500 4 x 4 trucks
with a close matching wheel base, so this is a good place to start
your search. I ordered a 1/25th scale Dodge Ram 3500 model truck to
compare against the 1/25th DOJ Batmobile model. Comparing the original
to possible donor vehicle models in the same scale is an excellent way
to get a pretty good idea of what will fit where. Some refer to this
method as visual intuition or comparative V analysis. Information is
available on the web for most vehicles and I gathered up that which I
thought to be relevant to evaluating the suitability of the Dodge Ram
3500 4 x 4 as a donor. vertigo
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| Posted 8/9/2016 4:47:37 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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SOME VALUABLE INFORMATION TO CONSIDER WHEN USING A DONOR VEHICLE FRAME
TONER’s TRUCK FRAME COMANDMENTS:
WHEN POSSIBLE, IT IS BETTER TO MOVE THE POSITION OF THE REAR AXLE THAN
TO CUT AND MODIFY A FRAME.
FATIGUE IS WHAT KILLS TRUCK FRAMES – NOT TENSILE OR YIELD STRENGTH.
AN OPEN HOLE CONCENTRATES STRESS FROM 2.5 to 3 TIMES.
USE EXISTING FRAME HOLES
WHEN POSSIBLE USE THE EXISTING MOUNTING LOCATIONS FROM THE MANUFACTURER.
IT IS BETTER FOR A BODY TO BE MOUNTED SOLIDLY AT THE REAR AND FLOATED
AT THE FRONT.
THE MORE AGE AND MILES ON A FRAME THE MORE FREQUENT THE NEED FOR INSPECTION.
HOLES AND WELDING NEAR FLANGES INCREASE THE RISK OF FRAME FAILURE.
AVOID MAKING HOLES, WELDING ON, AND NOTCHING OR CREATING OTHER
DISCONTINUITIES THAT WILL CONCENTRATE STRESS.
A RUSTED FRAME THAT HAS LOST INTEGRITY CAN NOT BE REPAIRED.
RICHARD TONER has spent entire days giving a truck-frame seminar for
the National Truck Equipment Association. He knows that much about
truck frames.
Toner, president of Toner & Associates (Pentwater, Michigan) and the
NTEA's first staff engineer said the frame is “the backbone of the
truck” because “it carries the loads we put on trucks.”
“Trucks use ladder-type frames with side rails and cross members, and
the frames are subjected to three types of loads: vertical, torsional,
and side.
Side rails support vertical and side loads such as engine,
transmission, fuel tanks, battery boxes, suspensions, bodies, work
equipment, and cargo. The cross members provide torsional rigidity and
support components such as the engine, transmission, and radiator. In
addition, the cross members prevent the side rails from twisting with
side loads such as the fuel tank and battery box.
“A frame section supported at each end loaded in the middle is in
compression at the top and in tension at the bottom,” he said. “There
is a neutral axis where there is no stress in the frame. Holes and
welding at the neutral axis will not significantly affect frame
strength. Holes and welding near the flanges can cause frame failure.
Chassis manufacturers restrict the size and location of holes and most
also restrict welding on the frames.”
Toner said ultimate/tensile strength is the maximum stress before
failure by separating; dynamic loading are loads put into a frame from
acceleration, braking, road irregularities, etc.; and fatigue is the
behavior of a material when subjected to cyclically applied stress,
which can result in a crack and failure.
“Fatigue is when you bend something until it breaks. Every material
has an elastic zone. If I bend the material and don't exceed the yield
strength, it will come back. If I get past the yield strength, I've
strained it. It doesn't go back to the original shape.”
He said reinforcements are popular because they're easy to put on. But
“I'm not big on bolted reinforcements. If you weld it in, it'll be
strong.”
Moment of inertia is a mathematical representation of the shape of a
frame rail, and is represented by “I.” SM = I/d. And deflection = W ×
l3/k × E × I.
He said as wheelbases get longer, deflection becomes important. The
rule of thumb is that with wheelbases under 160", design for strength;
and with wheelbases over 160", design for deflection.
“If you're going to lengthen the wheelbase on a chassis, never go
beyond the wheelbase the chassis manufacturer recommends without
taking a look at it and seeing what you're going to do,” he said.
He said endurance limit is the maximum stress that a material can
tolerate indefinitely without failure; fatigue strength is the stress
level corresponding to a definite life; and stress concentration is a
hole, weld, crack, notch, or other discontinuity that concentrates
stress. .
Stress concentration is a sixth-power effect when the stress level is
above the endurance limit. Doubling the stress decreases the life by a
factor of 64, so a 300,000-mile truck becomes a 5,000-mile truck.
“Truck frames are usually modified to change the chassis wheelbase for
proper weight distribution,” he said. “Frame modifications are more
common on medium- and heavy-duty trucks, although some light-duty
chassis are extended for applications such as car carriers. When
possible, it is better to move the position of the rear axle than to
cut and modify a frame.”
Toner said the purpose of body mounts is to attach the body to the
truck frame without doing more harm than good and retain the body in
all horizontal directions.
“Harm can be done by concentrating stress and not allowing the frame
to flex,” he said. “Rear mounts could be shear plates or some other
rigid configuration that prevents movement. Front mounts should be
flexible or placed to avoid stress concentrations and high moments.”
He said mounts can be combined to take advantage of the best features
of more than one type. Spacer strips used between the body and truck
frame perform multiple functions: cushioning member, sacrificial wear
member, and stress-spreading member. Rigid mounts should be used at
the rear and flexible mounts at the front. The front mount should not
be at the front of the body.
Toner said there are three basic types of body mounts: flexible,
rigid, and combination. Rigid mounts should be used at the rear, and
flexible mounts at the front.
He said that even though U-bolt body mountings are popular, they are
among the least effective mounting systems.
“Are they bad by themselves? No,” he said. “But they don't tend to stay tight.”
He said if they are used, proper frame spacers must be used. Some of
the problems are loosening, not preventing forward movement of the
body, and frame damage. He said frame flanges should never be notched
for a body mount.
“The body should not be rigid at the front,” he said. “It is better to
be mounted solidly at the rear and float at the front. Avoid high
moment areas for the mounting brackets. Use existing frame holes when
possible.”
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| Posted 8/10/2016 4:54:13 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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SECTIONAL SLICING OF PLASTIC MODELS
My favorite scroll saw for sectional slicing is the WEN 1.2 Amp
16-inch Variable Speed Scroll Saw. I bought mine off Amazon new for
75.00 with free shipping. An incredible price for such a great tool. I
use 400 strokes per minute to sectional slice plastic models.
Fixed speed scroll saws have too fast of a stroke per minute speed.
You could buy a more expensive scroll saw but for sectional slicing
plastic models this saw has every feature you really need. In fact,
many of the more expensive scroll saws, some costing 600.00 or more
have minimal speeds of 550 strokes per minute. With speeds above 400
strokes per minute you start to have major problems with melting the
plastic. The only limitation is that it cuts material up to 1.9 inches
thick. The saw could be modified with a thin metal table to open the
cutting thickness up to 3 inches. The max is about 4 inches since the
5” blades need one inch for stroke distance and end of blade holding
devices. If you need more depth of cut you could move up to a small
band saw.
AMAZON PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: WEN 1.2 Amp 16-inch Variable Speed Scroll
Saw. The variable speed ranges anywhere from 400 to 1600 strokes per
minute and can be easily adjusted by the speed knob located on the
front of the machine. The spacious 16-by-10-inch table bevels up to 45
degrees to the left. Easily cut in woods up to 1.9 inches thick while
the 16-inch throat depth allows for the manipulation of larger work
pieces. The WEN Scroll Saw also has a 9/16 inch stroke with the
allowance of both pinned and non-pinned blades. The sturdy cast iron
build limits vibration for precision and convenience and has bolt
holes for attachment to any tabletop or work surface. The
tension-release switch is easily accessible right at the top of the
machine. The air pump clears saw dust from your work area as you saw
to give you precise cuts with a clear line of vision. This combined
with the 1.5 inch dust port keep your work area clean so you can focus
on your cuts. The saw also includes a clamp for securing your project
in place along with a flexible work light that bends and adjusts to
whatever position your heart desires. And of course, it wouldn’t be a
WEN Product if it weren’t backed by a 2-year warranty, a friendly and
helpful phone line and a nationwide network of skilled service
technicians. Remember when customer service actually cared about the
customer? Remember WEN.
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| Posted 8/10/2016 5:01:03 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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SECTIONAL SLICING OF PLASTIC MODELS
I use a variable speed scroll saw with an OLSON SPIRAL TOOTH BLADE,
set on the lowest speed to avoid melting the plastic.
OLSON SCROLL SAW BLADE: SPIRAL TOOTH 5” Long Plain Ends
Olson No: SP461 Size: 0 TPI: 46 Kerf: .032 Qty: 12 Price: 5.99 at AMAZON
Application: For finer, more intricate cutting in thin wood, plastic,
wax, plaster, etc. 1/32-1/4 inch.
These blades saw in all directions and have 360º cutting capability.
Excellent for 0º radius scroll/fret work - you never have to turn the
workpiece. Use for cutting all types of materials including wood,
plastic, wax, non-ferrous metals, plaster, bone, horn, etc. For use in
power scroll saws and hand-held fret and jewelers saw frames. Cutting
speed and finish depend on material thickness and number of teeth per
inch. These premium blades are made of high carbon steel, hardened and
tempered to stay sharp longer. Good for bevel cutting letters in
names. Increase throat capacity and cut longer pieces without turning!
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| Posted 8/13/2016 7:39:28 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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HOW MUCH ARE YOU SKEWED?
1:1 and movie correct is for the purist.
< 1:1 scale reduction but movie correct usually for the street legal purist.
Both 1:1 full-sized and reduced scale Bat Vehicle replicas would be considered skewed if they were not movie correct.
Whether a Bat Vehicle replica is skewed just a little, or skewed a lot, all these builds would be considered skewed. It’s just a matter of degree and how free of conformity they are willing to let themselves become.
1:1 movie correct replica builds chain the builder, restraining their creativity in many ways; allowing for only exact copying. Some would say their freedom is in their methods and satisfaction lies in how close they can replicate the original.
At that moment when a builder declares their independence from building movie correct and from conformity of scale they truly have creative freedom. They are free to travel the continuums of creative dreams and to experience the exhilaration of unrestrained imaginings that exist between perfect reality and total abstraction. However, most soon trade their creative freedoms for the security of conformity. If doubts of this persist, one need only look at the entries in the annual Gum Ball 3000 Rallies and similar events. Most of those that enter obviously have the means to enter with expensive cars but most of the cars lack much more individual creative identity than a fancy paint job and maybe an attached spoiler, etc. The Tumbler in a past rally, and the Arkam Batmobile in the latest, and very few other entries, have exhibited an individual creative identity.
So, when a skewed builder says it should, ought, must, and/or would be better, if something about his build were some other way he has the will and power over his creative freedom.
So, dare to build bold, climbing towards your impossible dreams, with courage and vigor, in the face of those who said you could not. vertigo
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| Posted 8/14/2016 7:52:45 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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WHO ARE THE MOST SKEWED?
So, who are these bold and visionary car and other vehicle designers that exhibit the most creative freedom, and where is their work found? You need only go as far as your local Walmart's toy department or any where else toys are sold. There you will find many bold and creatively skewed toy vehicles from Batman, Star Wars, and every other popular comic book and popular science fiction/action movie and cartoon. Along side these vehicles are usually related guns and gadgets. And what about Barbie's Corvettes and dune buggies?
SKEWING AND MULTI SCALING ARE THE NORMALS IN THE TOY DEPARTMENT.
Skewing is rarely ever single scale rescaling, as it often involves simplification and multiple scales within the same toy vehicle. This ecclectic skewing often conveys other feelings in addition to those related to the original it was created from. Knowing what to look for in a skewed toy vehicle can be quite revealing to the unbound car and other vehicle builder and designer. About once a month I usually walk through Walmart's toy department to look at toy vehicles and guns. Rarely, do I not find inspiration and moments of insight. Usually in the original concept cars and guns that were created by some toy designer, not in response to Batman or any other similar driving media, but rather by an unrestrained creative designer to make a toy, that he hopes will bring excitement to the children who will play with it. vertigo
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| Posted 8/15/2016 5:10:02 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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“I think there are a couple of different ways you can approach this
DOJ build. The first one is to try and build it like the '89 car is
built. Basically, get a donor vehicle and put the DOJ skin over it.
There are several pluses and minuses to this approach. Some of the
pluses include: Titled vehicle, Many needed parts supplied by the
donor, solid frame, and a basic starting place. Some concerns would
be: Suspension and wheel placement, Moving the engine, how to route
power to the rear wheels, ride height.” Sly
Indeed, I carefully chose the Dodge Ram 1500 as my starting point, but
not just for the title. However starting with a titled vehicle is a
real plus.
There is one plus, a very big plus, that you did not mention. By
starting with a Dodge or Ford, one has a huge advantage in that there
is a near endless multitude of high end, after-market, high
performance parts, and compete assembly units, available to meet the
demands of the truck racing and off road markets. The Dodge Ram 1500
is a very popular starting vehicle as is the equivalent in Ford.
Suspension: As I go along on this build if I find I’m not satisfied
with the front suspension I can buy a bolt in completely assembled
high performance unit and even have one custom built to my
specifications.
Wheel placement and rear axle: Not that much of a problem, as there
are companies that will shorten or lengthen axles. Not all that hard
to do yourself with customized axles available from companies like
DUTCHMAN that specialized in axle conversion parts. Many companies are
available that sell all kinds of rear suspension kits such as 4-link
to fully independent.
Moving the engine: There are companies on line that specialize in rear
mounting engines that either sell the conversion parts or complete
rear engine/transmission conversion kits. A horizontally opposed
engine is also a possibility that might be able to be installed in the
front.
Routing power to rear wheels: A series of heavy duty pillow blocks
with bearings in connection with several drive shafts and universal
joints can solve most problems. For the really difficult routes, an in
and out, gear box like the ones used on boats could solve most of
these.
Ride height: All kinds of ride height adjustment kits are available.
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