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 Posted 8/15/2016 5:13:58 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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“The second way would be to build a frame from scratch, similar to how
the movie car was done. Disadvantages of this method include cost (a
big one), time, skill needed. Advantages are easier to get the lines
of the original because placement of suspension and drivetrain are
factored into the frame from the start.” sly
This choice is tailor made for using the sectional slicing of a model
method. Well, really you need two models. Tubing car builders and
designers often sectional slice 1/25 scale models into ¼” – ½” slices.
One model side to side, and the other long ways. (1/4 inch – 6-1/4
inches) (½ inch = 12-1/2 inches. Most use ½” slicing. Then they take
the slices, lay them on their sides and draw around the inside and
outside of each slice to create dimensional drawings. Then they space
these slices appropriately apart. Then these drawings are used to draw
their tubing and frame plans. Many build the base frame with square
and rectangular tubing and the top with round tubing. Some will build
it all from round tubing alone. Note: Welding tube frames is a real
bear without an Auto-Twirler or similar device. Being able to rotate
the frame as you work allows you to weld better and weld in 1/10th of
the time. That is why I have one. You can buy a Woodard manual tubing
bender with a die set of your choice and stand for around a thousand.
I built a replica Navy Seals Fast Attack dune buggy and bent all the
tubing for 5 other builders. Not that hard once you learn to use
templates and a 360 degree protractor that matches your bending
radius.
A second method would be to use these drawings to find an existing
tube frame that fits into or is close to fitting into your drawing.
Then, by adding in and subtracting tubing the frame is conformed to
your drawing’s dimensions.
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| Posted 8/15/2016 5:19:43 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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“I think there are a couple of different ways you can approach this
DOJ build. The first one is to try and build it like the '89 car is
built. Basically, get a donor vehicle and put the DOJ skin over it.
The second way would be to build a frame from scratch, similar to how
the movie car was done.
It will be very interesting and educational to see how these two
different approaches develop. I have a feeling aspects of our two
builds will be very helpful to each other.”
I agree.
For now, my clarity of vision is still in fluctuation and not
completely certain. I do know for certain that I will not be building
1:1 movie correct.
I do know for certain that I will not be building < 1:1 movie correct
in a reduced scale.
I do know for certain that I won’t be building a tube framed rendition.
I am a little sure that I won’t be building a performance vehicle.
I do know for certain that I will be building a skewed street legal
version. How skewed? For now, I am standing well outside the
protection of conformity to perfect reality, creatively looking
towards the possibilities and probabilities of practical abstraction,
while trying to stay unbound from the seductions of conventionality.
When I hear the sirens call for conformity, I try to imagine the
unrestrained creative toy designer making toys for the excitement of
children.
I also remember, “When a skewed builder says it should, ought, must,
and/or would be better, if something about his build were some other
way he has the ultimate will and power over his creative freedom and
to entertain the possible as well as the probable.” vertigo
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| Posted 8/16/2016 5:03:17 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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“A second method would be to use these drawings to find an existing
tube frame that fits into or is close to fitting into your drawings.
Then, by adding in and subtracting tubing the frame is conformed to
your drawing’s dimensions.” vertigo
The pictures of the Navy Seal dune buggy (sandrail) frame I built,
that I sent you pictures of, is an example of this method. I took my
drawings of the frame that I had made from several models of Navy Seal
dune buggies (sand rails). I then researched out who made the original
frames and collected some images. Then I searched the net for similar
frames and when I was satisfied that I had found the frame closest to
my drawings I bought the frame. It was already primed and painted red.
I then added and subtracted tubing as necessary to conform the frame
to my drawings. The red part in the pictures is the original frame
which was an 80% match to my drawings. The non-red tubing and metal is
what was added to conform the frame to my drawings.
By the way you don't need to build with Chrome-moly unless you are
planning to race the vehicle and weight reduction is part of the
winning option.
Chrome-moly can be fickle and difficult to weld without brittleness
problems. Most completed Chrome-moly frames are also stressed relieved
in high temp ovens. Regular steel tubing works fine and is much more
forgiving when welding and bends rather than breaks in a crash. I and
some of my friends have put thousands of rough off road miles on our
regular steel tubed vehicles and have bent a few tubes but never broke
any. vertigo
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| Posted 8/17/2016 5:01:19 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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SOME QUICK IDENTIFIERS THAT INDICATE THE SUITABILITY AND SCALABILITY
OF TOY VEHICLES AS REFERENCES FOR REAL VEHICLE BUILDS.
PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT IDENTIFIER: “THIS TOY MADE FOR 6-INCH FIGURES.”
TRANSLATION: This vehicle is scaled for 1:12 One-inch on the toy
vehicle equals 12-inches in full scale.
A 6-inch figure equals a 6-feet tall human. (1”=12”) (1”=1’) (6”=6’)
By making a toy vehicle accommodate 6-inch figures, the dimensions and
scale of the toy vehicle have been forced to conform around the
dimensions and scale of a 6’ tall human.
The scales of the human figure and the toy vehicle are equal and scalable.
Thus the combination of equally scaled toy figure and toy vehicle mean
that the toy vehicle is fully scalable to 1:1 into a real world
full-sized vehicle and that a (1:1) 6-‘ tall human would be able to
fit into it. Even though the toy vehicle is usually significantly
skewed, the dimensions that accommodate the 6-inch figure are not. The
possibilities related to this when fully grasped are breath taking.
The human form exists in near perfect dimensional reality surrounded
by equally scaled abstract skewing. A very useful concept.
Once the principles of this concept are fully grasped, one could
easily extrapolate to other similar figure to vehicle relationships.
12” tall GI JOE figures in 1:6 scale Navy Seal dune buggy (sandrail).
12” tall Batman figures in 1:6 scale Tumbler.
3” tall plastic figures in 1:24 scale vehicles.
2.88” tall Batman figure in 1:25 scale B v S DOJ Batmobile vertigo
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| Posted 8/18/2016 12:05:20 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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"WHAT SIZE TUBING WOULD YOU USE TO BUILD A BATMOBILE?"
For you DOJ Batmobile I would use 2-inch if your bender can handle it. A friend of mine bought a hydraulic assisted bender from Woodard for several thousand to bend two projects in 2". Manually bending 1-1/2 is not all that bad but 2" takes a lot out of you. Then he sold it three months later and got all his money back except for 400.oo. Beats hell out of renting. I helped him bend a dozen pieces and never broke a sweat with the assisted bender. There is a lot of good information online about bending 2" roll cages for race cars. If you don't know what a tubing joint jig (OLD JOINT JIGGER) is check it out on line. Cuts perfect tubing fish mouths using a power drill and a hole saw the diameter of your tubing in one-percent of the time that it takes to do one manually. You can literally do a hundred perfect fish mouth tubing cuts in the time that it would take you to do one manually. vertigo
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| Posted 8/19/2016 7:49:04 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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TWO VARIABLE 3D PICTORIAL ANALYSIS
A fancy description for comparing and contrasting two models in the same scale.
In this case I used two 1:25 scale models. One a Dodge Ram pickup truck and the other a Mobieus B v S DOJ Batmobile. Unlike using photographic images which are 2D, flat, and untouchable in 3D reality the 3D models can be experienced in 3D, rotated, and touched. A very intuitive way to reveal, compare, and contrast attributes of each and between the two. vertigo
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| Posted 8/20/2016 6:31:06 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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hello everyone,
I have a attached 7 images of the B v S DOJ Batmobile suitable for re-sizing and skewing.
Most computers come with PAINT so you could use this to experiment with the images.
Down load the images.
Click on the image and select edit.
Once in go to resize the image.
Deselect: maintain aspect ratio
This will allow you to resize the image on the horizontal and vertical with each of them independent of the other.
This is an excellent way to see how the Batmobile would look in a different aspect ratios.
Example the movie correct Batmobile is 12 feet wide and 21 feet long.
Want to see how it would look street legal at 8-1/2 feet wide? Extra long or less length? Made taller or shorter?
A few clicks and you're there. I have included complete images and images without the tires. (Body only).
This way you can manipulate the body without the interference of the tires.
You could also do the same thing with Photoshop or virtually any other photo edit program as they all have image re-sizing and aspect ratio programing. vertigo
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| Posted 8/24/2016 4:40:28 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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3D Printing vs CNC by Franz Grieser
www.all3DP.com Franz Grieser is an expert in IT, printing technology,
new media and 3D printing.
First, above all else, consider the dimensions of the object you
desire to make and the material it will be made from. Then consider
machine operational methodology and capacity.
CNC milling machines take a block of solid material (e.g. aluminum or
wood) and use sharp rotating tools or cutters to remove all parts that
are not needed. So: Milling is a subtractive method – in contrast to
additive manufacturing as in 3D printing. CNC mills are
computer-controlled. The computer feeds them machine-specific code
that controls the cutting tools (just like the G-code used by 3D
printers). The models for CNC mills are created using 3D modeling
software, so-called CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) software
applications. The CNC mills funded through Kickstarter in the last
months also accept STL and OBJ files (just like 3D printers), some
come with 1-year subscriptions
3D printing: There are several types of 3D printers using different
technologies and materials. All have in common that they start from
scratch and build three-dimensional objects layer by layer (additive
manufacturing)
Choice of materials
CNC mills can work on a huge variety of materials: metal alloys (e.g.
aluminum, steel alloys, brass, copper), softwoods and hardwoods,
thermoplastics, acrylic, modeling foams, machining wax (for creating a
positive model for casting).
You can utilize a CNC mill to manufacture prototypes in the same
material that will be used for the final product .
Desktop 3D printers are usually restricted to a few materials,
typically thermoplastics (PLA, ABS, sometimes nylon) or resins.
Thermoplastics can be mixed with other materials such as ceramics,
wood, metal, but the workpieces produced on a 3D printer will not be
as robust as workpieces cut from a block of metal or wood.
As thermoplastics and resin 3D printers use completely different
methods, a resin printer cannot handle thermoplastics – and vice
versa.
Precision: CNC mills offer positioning accuracies of around 0.001 inch
(0.025 mm) and tolerances of 0.005 inch (0.0127 mm). Parts made on in
a CNC mill are much more precise.
Speed: 3D printing jobs often take hours to complete, whereas CNC
milling jobs with comparable size and complexity normally do not take
more than an hour.
Range of applications: CNC milling is the better solution when
manufacturing workpieces that need to be extremely robust and precise
and/or heat-resistant.
Cost price: You can get decent 3D printers for about $500 (e.g. the
Prusa Steel or the Kossel ), while the CNC mills featured on
Kickstarter recently start at $2,000. But neither of these will really
buy you much capacity or be able to handle material more than a few
inches square.”
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| Posted 8/24/2016 4:45:49 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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CNC vs 3DP
Chris Fox
“Now that 3D printers have emerged as the tool-of-choice for many
makers and educators, there seems to be a line drawn in the sand
between CNC and additive manufacturing. Many manufacturers even worry
that 3D printing may one day replace traditional manufacturing in the
form of at-home production (perhaps sooner than we think).
While these concerns are somewhat legitimized by a quickly emerging
market for 3D printing, the gap between printed parts and components
that are truly usable is still massive. Some would argue that the
biggest hindrance to at-home manufacturing is simply cost (which is
quickly diminishing), but as most CNC users would agree, it is much
more than that.
The rhetoric in the 3D printing versus CNC debate is often centered on
quality and cost, but this is where machines like Tormach’s PCNC 1100,
PCNC 770, 15L Slant-PRO, PSG 612, carve their place into the
marketplace. 3D printers, like the MakerBot, Lulzbot, and Form1, are
fairly inexpensive ($3,800, $2,200, and $3,300, respectively), but
many users don’t have a full comprehension of a 3D printer’s
capabilities. Printers that are capable of the fantastic imagery that
is touted in the marketing campaigns can cost upwards of $15,000 to
$750,000, or more. 3D printers are certainly capable of great things
(including metal component production), but not on a budget – direct
metal laser sintering (DMLS) machines can cost upwards of $1M. While
the newfound fanfare for this technology is helping it progress, we
are far from being able to produce metal components in non-industrial
environments, unless it’s being done on a Tormach PCNC or similar
tool.
Tormach and similar machines for example have etched out a unique
place in the market of CNC mills, lathes, and cutting machines because
the gap between professional and consumer is being bridged. Prosumer
is the new emerging term. While this buzzword may often be a
trigger-happy description for marketers this term essential.
3D printing is certainly buzzworthy but there is still an important
gap between CNC and 3D printing. This gap shouldn’t be so much a line
in the sand, but rather, a partnership of the right tools for each
user. Both machines are capable of intruding on the other’s place in
the market, but where each thrives at affordable prices is important
to consider.
CNC mills are ideal for projects that require high-precision and
ready-to-use materials, whereas 3D printers are better for conceptual
prototypes and visual justifications. Both types of machines can be
used within these arenas, but they vary greatly in efficiency and
quality.
What the CNC versus 3D printing debate boils down to is the weighing
of capability and quality against price and efficiency – the rubber
hits the road in a debate about budget and need. With an unlimited
budget, I’d have both a million dollar stereo-lithography printer and
an industrial CNC mill with all the bells and whistles (i.e. an array
of tools, a fourth axis, etc.), but it’s an exciting time to be an
engineer right now in that I can have a PCNC 1100 and a Form 1 printer
in my garage for less than $20k and accomplish many of the same
things. CNCs and 3D printers both have their place, and as the market
continues to adapt to an ever-changing world, these machines each have
their place, side by side.”
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| Posted 8/25/2016 4:58:59 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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WE HAVE DISCUSSED 3D PRINTING, CNC PLASMA TABLES, CNC MILLING
MACHINES, CNC LATHES, and briefly on mounting a HAND HELD ROUTER or
MIG WELDER on a CNC PLASMA TABLE, but there is one more.
THE DEDICATED CNC ROUTER TABLE
3D PRINTING, except to make small parts, is not practical at this time
for home Bat Vehicle builders, but a CNC ROUTER TABLE is. The CNC
ROUTER TABLE can do everything needed to make large 3D parts such as
those curve laden cabin roof tops, body panels, and most curvy parts.
I AM PLANNING ON USING ONE IN THE FUTURE TO CARVE OUT THE MASTERS for
the B v S DOJ Batmobile CABIN ROOF TOP, TURRET GUN ASSEMBLY, etc., and
some parts on my TUMBLER.
The auto-vehicle, boat, airplane, and thousands of other product
building industries have used computer controlled router tables for
years to make their masters; even, carving full-sized vehicle body
masters.
A CNC ROUTER TABLE is a computer-controlled cutting machine related to
the hand held router used for cutting various hard materials, such as
wood, composites, aluminum, steel, plastics, and foams. CNC stands for
computer numerical control. CNC routers can perform the tasks of many
carpentry shop machines such as the panel saw, the spindle molder, and
the boring machine.
A CNC router is very similar in concept to a CNC milling machine.
Instead of routing by hand, tool paths are controlled via computer
numerical control. The CNC router is one of many kinds of tools that
have CNC variants.
A CNC router typically produces consistent and high-quality work and
improves factory productivity. Unlike a jig router, the CNC router can
produce a one-off as effectively as repeated identical production.
Automation and precision are the key benefits of CNC ROUTER TABLES.
APPLICATIONS
A CNC router can be used in the production of many different items,
such as door carvings, interior and exterior decorations, wood panels,
sign boards, wooden frames, moldings, musical instruments, furniture,
and so on. In addition, the CNC router helps in the thermoforming of
plastics by automating the trimming process. CNC routers can help
ensure part repeatability and sufficient factory output.
QUICK OVERVIEW OF CAM (computer-aided manufacturing)
CAM software makes the CAD drawing/design into a code called g-code.
The code the CNC machine can understand. In short, CNC technology is
not very complicated. It is a tool controlled by a computer. It only
becomes more sophisticated when considering how the computer controls
the tool.
SIZES AND CONFIGURATIONS of CNC ROUTER TABLES
CNC routers come in many configurations, from small home-style D.I.Y.
"desktop" like k2 CNC, to large industrial CNC routers used in sign
shops, cabinet making, automotive, aerospace, and boat-making
facilities. Originally CNC routers added computer control to consumer
router power tools. Although there are many configurations, most CNC
routers have a few specific parts: a dedicated CNC controller, one or
more spindle motors, servo motors, Stepper Motors, servo amplifiers,
AC inverter frequency drives, linear guides, ball screws and a
workspace bed or table. In addition, CNC routers may have vacuum
pumps, with grid table tops or t slot hold down fixtures to hold the
parts in place for cutting. CNC routers are generally available in
3-axis and 5-axis CNC formats. Many manufacturers offer A and B Axis
for full 5 Axis capabilities and rotary 4th axis but you can do most
everything you would need when building with X, Y, Z axis tables.
Home hobby tables are available in 2 x 2, 2 x 4, 3 x 5, 4 x 4, 4 x 8,
and 5 x 10. A 5-6" Z axis depth is standard but 12" is often available
as an option. Prices start at 1,000.00 for small tables such as 2 x 2,
run around 6,000.oo for a 2 x 4, and 10,000.oo for a 4 x 4. There are
some on line that claim you can build your own 4 x 4 table for around
3,000.oo
CONTROLLING THE MACHINE
The CNC router is controlled by a computer. Coordinates are uploaded
into the machine controller from a separate CAD program. CNC router
owners often have two software applications—one program to make
designs (CAD) and another to translate those designs into a 'G-Code'
program of instructions for the machine (CAM). As with CNC milling
machines, CNC routers can be controlled directly by manual
programming, and CAD/CAM opens up wider possibilities for contouring,
speeding up the programming process and in some cases creating
programs whose manual programming would be, if not truly impossible,
certainly impractical.
A TYPICAL CNC WOOD ROUTER
A CNC wood router is a CNC Router tool that creates objects from wood.
CNC stands for computer numerical control. The CNC works on the
Cartesian coordinate system (X, Y, Z) for 3D motion control. Parts of
a project can be designed in the computer with a CAD/CAM program, and
then cut automatically using a router or other cutters to produce a
finished part. The CNC Router is ideal for hobbies, engineering
prototyping, product development, art, and production work. These are
found in every movie production PROP SHOP of any size and used mostly
to cut foam. They usually have several with a Z axis depth range of 12
inches. Many movie sets contain >50% foam and routed foam parts
finished in unique ways.
Note: A CNC PLASMA TABLE can be converted by adding a Z axis and a
router to do 3D cutting. This will most likely be my method to route
my Bat Vehicle parts. vertigo
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