Vertigo's Tumbler Build
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Vertigo's Tumbler Build Expand / Collapse
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Posted 1/21/2019 1:17:40 PM


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vertigo (1/21/2019)
Bopenstein
"Really starting to look like a tumbler now. Good work"

Hey Bopenstein,
Thanks for the kind words.
How is your Tumbler project progressing.
What are your build goals for this year? vertigo


I’m actually going to put the body back together this week and keep working on it and hopefully start on the chassis in early March. Your build and is giving me plenty of motivation
Post #162598
Posted 3/4/2019 6:58:10 PM


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Last Login: 11/12/2019 8:39:49 PM
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Hey Vertigo

Any new updates?????


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***Passion and Creativity is what sets us Apart...***
Post #162784
Posted 3/4/2019 7:28:17 PM
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Hey WAR Machine,
No photo-image worthy completed progress.
Currently working on front windows frames and assemblies.

Any progress on your build? vertigo
Post #162785
Posted 3/5/2019 5:49:27 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to, and/or, actually building a Bat Vehicle.
The information and techniques depicted here may have relevancy to other steering wheel mounting projects.
Spent a few hours on DOJ/Justice League steering wheel.
Cut out back plate (still needs some more shaping and grinding.)
Machined the main hub to specifications of a 2" universal system.
This allows the use of universal 2" adapters, fabricated 2" custom adapter(s), and solid or hollow 2" tube shafts.
vertigo


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PICT0035 (8).JPG (18 views, 195.69 KB)
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Post #162788
Posted 3/9/2019 5:42:04 PM
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From near the start of having the DOJ/Justice League steering wheel identified by "THEMAN", studying photo-images and examining the real plastic steering wheel I guided my progress from mostly one question.
How could a plastic video game simulator steering wheel be modified enough to be used to drive the real DOJ/Justice League batmobile.

Spent a few hours on DOJ/Justice League steering wheel.

Finished grinding the back plate to shape.
Welded the 2" adaptable collar onto the back plate and ground the welds.
Used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a light touch to slowly grind off all plastic protrusions on the back of the plastic steering wheel.
After fitting the back plate to the back of the plastic steering wheel, coated both with silicone gasket compound.
Placed the center bolt through the steering wheel and steel back plate and tightened down.


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PICT0016 (22).JPG (24 views, 208.84 KB)
PICT0020 (24).JPG (6 views, 197.98 KB)
PICT0029 (13).JPG (8 views, 242.54 KB)
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PICT0045 (2).JPG (15 views, 196.29 KB)
Post #162795
Posted 3/10/2019 6:43:39 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here because of the relevancy to plastics and resin/hardeners in bat vehicle buildings.
Today I,
Placed drill through five outer hub holes and drilled through plastic steering wheel and steel backing plate.
Used black silicone gasket maker and metal tape to seal all remaining holes and seams.
Steering wheel is now ready for an internal resin pour pending an interaction test between the mixed resin/hardener and the steering wheel plastic.

Interaction tests between mixed resin/hardeners and plastic materials is an important test that to ignore is at your own peril.

If the fiberglass resin/hardener I have on hand dissolves the test spot on the steering wheel plastic I will have to find another product.


  Post Attachments 
PICT0045 (2).JPG (29 views, 196.29 KB)
Post #162800
Posted 3/10/2019 8:18:22 PM


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Looking Good man.
Ive also thought about my steering options and started making a mock up unit but rather decided to use the one from the donor car instead...


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Post #162806
Posted 3/12/2019 7:53:13 PM
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Here is some information pouring epoxy/catalyst to fill voids. Appears it would also be relevant to fiberglass resin/catalyst pours.
epoxyworks.com to view complete information
Controlling Exotherm
by Mike Barnard
Occasionally customers are interested in filling a void by pouring a pouring large mass of epoxy all at once. This can be very dangerous because it will generate a lot of heat, and can lead to poor results because of the snowball effect mentioned earlier. Some faster epoxy systems, blended in a mass large enough, can reach temperatures over 400°F: hot enough to melt or at least soften plastic. This level of heat could also damage whatever the epoxy is poured into. High temperature can also result in severe cracking throughout the thickness of cured epoxy; so much so that if the epoxy were not supported, it could fall away. Shrinkage can introduce significant stresses into the structure the epoxy is attached to. Customers casting large epoxy sections into boat bilges have reported hearing loud snapping or cracking sounds after the epoxy cured.
Pouring a large mass of epoxy is a very difficult to do safely and effectively. Temperature, volume of epoxy, depth of the epoxy, and amount of heat sink in contact with the epoxy are all major variables in this application.
Proven methods for controlling exotherm:
If you do want to pour or cast a large volume of epoxy, here are several proven methods for minimizing heat buildup which we’ve developed over the years.
Pour the epoxy in timed, multiple batches.
Timing is important when doing multiple pours. Ideally, you want to wait for mild exotherm to peak and begin falling before mixing a new batch and pouring. Waiting too long could cause an insufficient bond between the two pours. Not waiting long enough can cause too much heat to build and cracks to propagate.
Choose 209 Extra Slow Hardener or G/flex
Slower cure allows a deeper pour before too much heat buildup occurs. For this reason, we recommend to use our slowest systems when casting larger amounts of epoxy: 105 Resin with 209 Extra Slow Hardener, or G/flex.
Work at cooler temperatures.
Cooler shop temperatures and cooling the epoxy itself will both work to your advantage in slowing cure and controlling epoxy’s exothermic reaction. A deeper pour can be accomplished with less heat buildup by starting with cooled epoxy and a cool substrate until the epoxy initially cures to a soft solid. Then you could expose it to room temp or higher to complete the cure.
Use heat sinks.
A heat sink is any object that can absorb lot of heat. If you are applying the epoxy into or over a heavy metal object, it will absorb much more heat than a lower-density object.
High-density fillers can also act as a heat sink, reducing exotherm by absorbing more heat than a low-density filler, and taking up more volume. This leaves less room for mixed resin and hardener, reducing the resulting heat reaction.
If the wrong epoxy/filler combination is used for a certain cure temperature, the epoxy may generate enough heat to smolder and burn. Adding more low-density filler will certainly reduce the amount of epoxy in a given volume, but the filler will act as an insulator instead of a heat sink. This effect is shown in the testing that we did.
Post #162813
Posted 3/12/2019 11:31:03 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to and/or building a Bat Vehicle.
hey sly,
Thanks for the information and supplier addresses. uscomposities.com
I tested some fiberglass/catalyst mixed on some of the steering wheel plastic. It did not dissolve it. No effects.
Mixed 4 ounces of fiberglass/catalyst and after 20 minutes the bottle reached a temperature too hot to hold with the hand. I estimate the plastic steering wheel internal voids would hold around a quart of resin.
I don't think the steering wheel plastic could stand up to the exothermic effects of using that much mixed resin/catalyst.
So, after studying the products available at the company you referred to me I ordered:
KIT: 635 Thin Epoxy System with 2:1 Ratio Slow Epoxy Hardener EPOX-6355563
This seems to be exactly what I was looking for. A slow reaction with more time for heat dissipation.
Pot Life: 35-40 minutes
Set Time: 5-6 hours
Drying Time: 24-28 hours
Post #162816
Posted 3/23/2019 6:55:58 PM
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Finally made some photo-image progress.
Cut all the front window frames and upper heavy duty 2" x 2" x 3/16" support beam.
Placed the pieces on a leveled support table in preparation for welding. vertigo
Post #162853
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