Using the stock caprice donor firewall
Batmobile Forum
 Batmobile Home          Batmobile Builders     Calendar     Who's On

Welcome Guest ( Login | Register )
        


««12345»»»

Using the stock caprice donor firewall Expand / Collapse
Author
Message
Posted 1/11/2021 9:06:46 PM


Forum Member

Forum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum Member


Last Login: 10/27/2021 8:31:44 PM
Posts: 156, Visits: 648
Great info right there, thank you.

Few questions If you dont mind...

How low is to low for the engine drop?
When you say set the shell on the tires with spacers then build your cage....is there a height the body/wheel wells should be above the tires?

Can you go into more detail about building the cage? Are you talking about using square tubing? Round? What is the preferred or best way to mount the shell to the cage?

Sorry I’m still a newb haha.
brcewane (12/24/2020)
I originally had thought the same thing but there is no way that it will work. You basically need to stretch the chassis by 2 feet and re-locate your engine as low as possible. Get your proper wheels and tires on the car... set the car shell onto the tires with some spacers and then you need to build your cage and everything from the ground up to fit under the shell.

You can check my build log out starting from April 2011 and working your way forward. I documented the entire process: https://batberry.wordpress.com/2011/05/
Post #169106
Posted 1/12/2021 4:32:40 PM


Supreme Being

Supreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme Being


Last Login: Today @ 3:48:34 AM
Posts: 1,198, Visits: 3,904
Find your way back to where I was working on the chassis in my car https://batberry.wordpress.com/blog/

Basically, take all the OEM suspension out of your car and add in your air bag suspension fully deflated so that everything is sitting only on the bump stops. You don't need to have the air bags in there necessarily but it will give you a final positioning if you do have them in.

Then create the new mounts for your engine. I left my engine the same distance from the rear axle so that the OEM driveshaft would fit and that it would not be as nose heavy.

Lower your engine down as far as you can go, as long as the oil pan doesn't hit the ground when your suspension is fully collapsed then you are good. That will have your engine now as far down as possible and provide the maximum hood clearance.

Now, with your suspension fully collapsed set your body where you want it. Since you are already on the bump stops you don't have to worry about making room for wheel travel (they are at their maximum height)

In retrospect, I should have put my nose lower to the ground than I did as the wheels do tuck in a bit.

With your body positioned where you want it, you can now take measurements/climb under it and start to create some body mounts and your cage/chassis

With these cars you will need to put it on air suspension. The nose is sooooo long in front of the wheels, and the arches are so low at the rear and long out the back with the rear turbine fins that you will want to raise the car whenever you are going into any kind of inclined driveway.


---------------------------------------------------------

Building the BatBerry - Batmobile powered by BlackBerry
http://batberry.wordpress.com/

Post #169108
Posted 1/12/2021 4:37:06 PM


Supreme Being

Supreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme BeingSupreme Being


Last Login: Today @ 3:48:34 AM
Posts: 1,198, Visits: 3,904
There will be no way that you can leave the engine mounted where it is, or save any of the firewall. You'll see

All steering columns/shafts, pedals, brake booster/master/slave, driveshaft tunnel, height of firewall, seat mounts... none of it will work from the caprice. Take all that metal to a recycler

With the engine sitting where it is, you'll drop the body onto the chassis and find that your wheel arches only reach half way down your wheels. I can't even explain how "short" the hood section is... if I remember correctly something like 2-2.5 feet high

As an example.. this is me standing beside the car.. I'm 5'7" on a good day and the car comes up mid thigh high https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjybtVZLVAc

Minijokerguy (1/11/2021)
My project is currently on hold, but I’m also using a 95 Caprice and going thru and wondering the same exact things you are. I asked a lot of these same questions in other posts but got almost no responses. So I’m glad you are addressing it.

So far I have every intention of making my car street legal, so I do plan on saving/moving a piece of the body/firewall as required by Illinois...but we will see how that goes.

I’m not sure if the move/drop is required for hood clearance as much as it is for stability and front end weight.


---------------------------------------------------------

Building the BatBerry - Batmobile powered by BlackBerry
http://batberry.wordpress.com/

Post #169109
Posted 1/12/2021 6:46:55 PM
Junior Member

Junior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior Member


Last Login: Today @ 2:50:09 AM
Posts: 50, Visits: 626
Minijokerguy -

Yes - I thought the same way for the same reason...to keep the vin on the factory firewall. We'll see.....
Picked up these used centerline autodrags last weekend. Finally got some of the rook removed...still pecking away.



  Post Attachments 
IMG_4379.JPG (20 views, 1.58 MB)
IMG_4381.JPG (16 views, 2.13 MB)
Post #169113
Posted 1/15/2021 6:39:55 PM


DC Comics Representative

DC Comics Representative


Last Login: 5/1/2021 4:22:32 PM
Posts: 17, Visits: 67
What everyone said is correct. Your not going to be able to use the fire wall or really any body part from the caprice. Most of us use a caprice frame because its the right width. You'll end up extending the frame to get the length needed. Doing so will require you to move the engine back because of the body's low profile the engine messes with the position of the body.

I don't know about your state laws about your vin numbers. I've built custom cars and could move the vin number by screwing out the two bolt areas on the end of the vin plate. Ill be moving mine to the cock pit area. You might want to check with your state laws regarding mirrors, glass, emissions, lights and things of that nature before you get to far. I know some states might require a inspection by highway patrol before it can go on the road.


FLYING GRAYSON
Post #169118
Posted 1/15/2021 9:44:55 PM


Forum Member

Forum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum Member


Last Login: 10/27/2021 8:31:44 PM
Posts: 156, Visits: 648
Its funny you mention that, a while back I reviewed the regulations for a custom build/kit car in my state, and it stated that the kit car must retain 20%-30% of the original body of the vehicle. But I randomly thought I would check it and it seemed to have been removed from the regulations guide. Maybe its becoming more lax?



FlyingGrayson (1/15/2021)
What everyone said is correct. Your not going to be able to use the fire wall or really any body part from the caprice. Most of us use a caprice frame because its the right width. You'll end up extending the frame to get the length needed. Doing so will require you to move the engine back because of the body's low profile the engine messes with the position of the body.

I don't know about your state laws about your vin numbers. I've built custom cars and could move the vin number by screwing out the two bolt areas on the end of the vin plate. Ill be moving mine to the cock pit area. You might want to check with your state laws regarding mirrors, glass, emissions, lights and things of that nature before you get to far. I know some states might require a inspection by highway patrol before it can go on the road.
Post #169119
Posted 1/15/2021 9:59:25 PM


Forum Member

Forum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum Member


Last Login: 10/27/2021 8:31:44 PM
Posts: 156, Visits: 648
Thank you very much, your blog has been extremely helpful.

I spent a good portion of the day reviewing it.

brcewane (1/12/2021)
Find your way back to where I was working on the chassis in my car https://batberry.wordpress.com/blog/

Basically, take all the OEM suspension out of your car and add in your air bag suspension fully deflated so that everything is sitting only on the bump stops. You don't need to have the air bags in there necessarily but it will give you a final positioning if you do have them in.

Then create the new mounts for your engine. I left my engine the same distance from the rear axle so that the OEM driveshaft would fit and that it would not be as nose heavy.

Lower your engine down as far as you can go, as long as the oil pan doesn't hit the ground when your suspension is fully collapsed then you are good. That will have your engine now as far down as possible and provide the maximum hood clearance.

Now, with your suspension fully collapsed set your body where you want it. Since you are already on the bump stops you don't have to worry about making room for wheel travel (they are at their maximum height)

In retrospect, I should have put my nose lower to the ground than I did as the wheels do tuck in a bit.

With your body positioned where you want it, you can now take measurements/climb under it and start to create some body mounts and your cage/chassis

With these cars you will need to put it on air suspension. The nose is sooooo long in front of the wheels, and the arches are so low at the rear and long out the back with the rear turbine fins that you will want to raise the car whenever you are going into any kind of inclined driveway.
Post #169120
Posted 1/16/2021 5:19:29 PM
Junior Member

Junior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior MemberJunior Member


Last Login: Today @ 2:50:09 AM
Posts: 50, Visits: 626
Well, call me stubborn, but you can make anything fit with enough trimming and cutting. As for not using any body panels...thats good sheet metal...to use the roof, and hood for floor pans or burner can feathers, use the radio antennae and window motors for canopy/machine gun doors, use the trunk lid for the trunk/passenger divider, trunk hatches...all kinds of good stuff that is useable.
Post #169123
Posted 1/17/2021 3:05:22 PM


Forum Member

Forum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum MemberForum Member


Last Login: 10/27/2021 8:31:44 PM
Posts: 156, Visits: 648
I hate to go there, but I swear I was like ehhh I can make it work....somewhere, maybe.

I am quite the recycler haha.

Commissioner Gordon (1/16/2021)
Well, call me stubborn, but you can make anything fit with enough trimming and cutting. As for not using any body panels...thats good sheet metal...to use the roof, and hood for floor pans or burner can feathers, use the radio antennae and window motors for canopy/machine gun doors, use the trunk lid for the trunk/passenger divider, trunk hatches...all kinds of good stuff that is useable.
Post #169129
Posted 1/22/2021 8:53:05 PM


DC Comics Representative

DC Comics Representative


Last Login: 5/1/2021 4:22:32 PM
Posts: 17, Visits: 67
No matter what you'll be fabricating parts into your build. Most of us just buy new parts because we need to do so much fabrication. Your not going to be able to use a lot of the parts from the caprice. Sure you could use as many parts as you can from it but if your going for screen accurate your not going to use much of the caprice. If your going for your own take on the 89 batmobile go for it! Personally im making my own vision of it on the inside. If you can make the parts from the caprice work thats great . Most guys on here will tell you to get newer parts because older parts don't always hold up or have problems. Most of us use stainless steel because it doesn't rust. Personally I would recommend using stainless steel over the hood, top, or any other body parts that could rust. Mostly due to those body parts experiencing some type of weathering over the years from rain, snow or salt. I'm all about recycling and using what you can but for some things you gotta bite the bullet and put more money/time into it haha. As always Keep up the good work Bat-brother

FLYING GRAYSON
Post #169140
« Prev Topic | Next Topic »

««12345»»»

Reading This Topic Expand / Collapse
Active Users: 0 (0 guests, 0 members, 0 anonymous members)
No members currently viewing this topic.

Permissions Expand / Collapse

All times are GMT -5:00, Time now is 4:58pm


Execution: 0.297. 10 queries. Compression Disabled.

Batman (1989 Version)

CLTC Club Shirts




1989 Batmobile Kit 1989 Batmobile Kits
1989 Batmobile Builders Batmobile Kit
Batmobile Kits 1989 Batmobile Builder





Batman and all related characters and elements are trademarks of and DC Comics and WB.
Use of anything related to "Batman" on this site is not to infringe upon the copyrights of DC Comics or WB.
The purpose of chickslovethecar.com is to foster positive discussion about one of the greatest vehicles of all time.
This site does not sell or build any related cars or kits. © 2004-2012 chickslovethecar.com "Chicks Love The Car"
Images linked courtey of cltc.co.

You can contact us by clicking here.