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Posted 5/6/2017 8:20:01 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
Here are a few of my hemi-joint threaded insert welding considerations.
Hemi-joint tubing bungs or threaded inserts can be difficult to weld without damaging the threads or Teflon bushings in the hemi-joint ends. Here are some tips from the manufacturer that put together my 4-link suspension kit.
*Tips to help prevent any seized or warped threads.
Correctly adjust welder settings. (Too much heat can warp the threads)
Not welding the tube adapter with the rod end threaded inside. (Getting the rod end too hot can damage the
liner)
Be careful to not keep too much heat on the tube adapter when welding inside of D.O.M.
If you weld with the hemi-joint end screwed in, coat the threads with anti-seize compound and weld in short
steps.
Professional welders of hemi-joint end threaded inserts use this method:
Weld in the insert without the hemi-joint end screwed in but not too hot.
After welds cool to the touch run a tap into the welded in adapter to clean up the threads. vertigo
Post #156760
Posted 5/10/2017 5:57:33 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I put a copy of this post here because someone planning or currently
building a Bat Vehicle might be able to benefit from this information.
There are several reasons the 1 piece rod ends have been the chosen
ones for so long. EXTREME STRENGTH, RELIABILITY, and SAFETY.
Mechanical Parameters for one piece1.25 Hemi.
This is a fully heat treated chromoly heim with a radial static
load(RSL) rating of 76,200 lbs. The 52100 bearing is heat treated
steel and hard chrome plated. The housing has a hard chrome finish.
The race is made from a teflon impregnated nylon injection molding.

This Heim has a 1.25" shaft with a 1" bore. The reason this company
uses the 1" bore instead of a 1.25" bore is strength. There is simply
more material on the 1" bore rod end and with a 3/4" bolt, after
missalignment that is what you would end up with anyway. If you need a
1.25" rod end, you don't want a small bolt becoming the weak point.
Sometimes smaller in the right places is better!

There are many benefits to a 1 piece Rod End that you should
understand. The first and foremost is simply Strength but the
simplicity of having less parts to come loose or break on the trail or
in competition comes in a close second. Anyone can buy the parts to
make a rod end. They're pretty easy to come by and you don't need a
very expensive special 800 ton press to manufacture them. If they
screw together. There are many cheap multi-piece hemi-joints on the
market. You get what you pay for. However, there are several reasons
the 1 piece rod ends have been the chosen ones for so long. EXTREME
STRENGTH, RELIABILITY, and SAFETY.


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Post #156773
Posted 5/11/2017 5:00:19 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I posted this here because it might be of some benefit to someone planning or starting to build a Batman v
Superman DOJ Bat Vehicle.
MILLER WELDING FORUM: Hemi-joint threaded insert welding.
Note: Suspension and steering related hemi-joints are considered to be
critical welded parts in that weld/part failures could result in
severe injury and death. If you don’t have absolute confidence in your
parts/materials, welding, and weld testing, knowledge and abilities,
take them to a professional welder.
Here is the related posting.
“Now some will say they got nice hot welds on the bungs they did with
MIG. I do not know what their experience is but having a MIG weld go
in "nice and hot" is certainly no guarantee if it is sound or not.
Only practicing and destruction testing on your welds will show if
welding and parameters were correct. So, I buy some extra bungs and
weld them as practice. Once welded, I cut long and sideways through
the center and examine for fusion. This is the only way I can know for
certain. Anytime I change any variable such as tubing material, even
the thickness, hemi-joint threaded insert material/dimensions, welding
wire/rod, welder settings, etc. I destruction test the new welded
combination. It is the only way I can be certain that my welding and
parameters were correct.”
On many welding websites and forums I have observed a lot of
reluctance to discuss the exact specifics, such as, actual welding
techniques and methods, as well as, any recommendations for specific
MIG wires and TIG filler rods. Which I can understand given the
inherent major responsibility and liability risks associated with
welding suspension and steering hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Post #156778
Posted 5/17/2017 7:19:30 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
Not really set up to do video but I plan to show in great detail how I
welded and tested by destruction my hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts
(bungs). This will be reflective of my unique and particular
hemi-joint threaded tubing insert (bung) welding experience and only
relevant to the variables related to my particular set of materials,
welding, and weld testing.  If the welding of my hemi-joint threaded
tubing inserts is successful, it is in no way a guarantee, that
someone else with a different set of materials, machines, welding
abilities, methods, and technique variables would achieve the same
results.
I currently have four extra hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts on
order to be used for welding and weld testing by destruction. I have
added  this from the Miller Welding forum

MILLER WELDING FORUM: Hemi-joint threaded insert welding.
Note: Suspension and steering related hemi-joints are considered to be
critical welded parts in that weld/part failures could result in
severe injury and death. If you don’t have absolute confidence in your
parts/materials, welding, and weld testing, knowledge and abilities,
take them to a professional welder.
Here is the related posting.
“Now some will say they got nice hot welds on the bungs they did with
MIG. I do not know what their experience is but having a MIG weld go
in "nice and hot" is certainly no guarantee if it is sound or not.
Only practicing and destruction testing on your welds will show if
welding and parameters were correct. So, I buy some extra bungs and
weld them as practice. Once welded, I cut long and sideways through
the center and examine for fusion. This is the only way I can know for
certain. Anytime I change any variable such as tubing material, even
the thickness, hemi-joint threaded insert material/dimensions, welding
wire/rod, welder settings, etc. I destruction test the new welded
combination. It is the only way I can be certain that my welding and
parameters were correct.”
Post #156799
Posted 5/17/2017 7:24:28 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a B V S DOJ Bat Mobile.

Here from weldguru.com is the best and most comprehensive article I
have ever seen on the web for assessing and testing the quality of
welds. I put the table of contents below. Go to weldguru.com to read
the whole 2593 words on the subject. It is very informative and worth
reading for anyone interested in, and/or worried about the quality of
their welds.  vertigo

Guide to Weld Quality Testing
“To ensure the satisfactory performance of a welded structure, the
quality of the welds must be determined by adequate testing procedures.
Therefore, they are proof tested under conditions that are the same or
more severe than those encountered by the welded structures in the
field.”

This page contains visual inspection tips. The following pages contain
inspection methods for GMAW and physical weld testing.

Table of Contents

Visual Inspection Methods

Lack of Fusion

Undercutting

Incomplete Penetration

Slag Inclusions

Porosity

Gas Weld Testing

Physical Weld Tests

Acid Etch Test

Guided Bend Test

Free Bend Test

Back Bend Test

Nick Break Test

Tensile Strength Test

Hydrostatic Test

Magnetic Particle Test

X-Ray Testing

Gamma Ray Testing

Flourescent Penetrant Test

Hardness Tests

Magnaflux Tests

Electromagnetic Tests

Acoustic Emission Testing

Ferrite Testing
Post #156802
Posted 5/18/2017 7:56:24 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Here is one the most comprehensive websites I have found for MIG welding.

Weldguru.com

“Hi, my name is Garrett… (owner of weldguru.com)

For the past 5 years I’ve helped well over 10,000 beginners and
hobbyists get started learning to mig weld through my free training.
If you’d like to get started, Download my FREE beginner’s guide to MIG
welding.”
Post #156814
Posted 5/19/2017 8:14:55 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
With the recent postings focus on welding I have decide to post on a
question frequently asked of me by those interested in or new to
welding.

“What is the best start out welding book for someone wanting to learn
about or improve on their minimal welding abilities?”

The best current book that meets the needs of those wanting to learn
about or improve their minimal welding abilities is: The Art of
Welding

It really has no current competition in succinct to the point
descriptive text or quality of photo images and illustrations.

Many Junior High schools, High schools, colleges, and welding schools
now use this as their 101 welding introduction text.

The Art of Welding
by  William Galvery
former Professor of Welding Technology
Orange Coast College of California
With input from Ryan Friedlinghaus
Founder and CEO of West Coast Customs
Copyright 2014
Industrial Press
32 Haviland Street
South Norwalk, Connecticut  06854
Toll free: 1-888-528-7852
www.industrialpress.com
Standard Edition:  ISBN 978-0-8311-3475-4
Praxair Edition: ISBN 978-0-8311-3488-4   (this is the edition I have)
Cost approximately: 20.oo
Post #156823
Posted 5/24/2017 7:46:38 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I placed a copy of this post here because this information on tire
temperature effects on dimensional variables may be of some use to
someone planning and/or building a Bat Vehicle.
Interco list them as 44 x 18.5-16.50
One spec sheet refers to a Tire Diameter Range:
44.0-44.99 inches
At 70 degrees cold the tire is 44.0 inches tall
Once the tire starts rolling, and/or the temperature increases, the
tire will expand.
Throughout the operational range the tire is not supposed to expand
more than an inch in diameter.
There is no information on the range of width expansion throughout the
operational range.
I guess they don’t consider the width expansion variation as important
since the tires were not envisioned to be used in a dually
configuration. Probably the same reason there are no 16.5” dually
steel wheels for these tires
Post #156852
Posted 5/25/2017 7:57:11 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I placed a copy of this post here because this information on
tire-loading calculations may be of some use to someone planning
and/or building a Bat Vehicle.

Calculated the weight factor parameters for my Tumbler.
Each SAM-43 Super Swamper max loading 2855 lbs
X 4 = 11,420 lbs
Each Mickey Thompson front tire max loading 1500 lbs
X 2 = 3,000 lbs
Combined max loading weights = 14,420 lbs
In reality I can only use a factor of 1500 lbs per tire X 6 = 9,000
lbs for any weight loading above axle or in front of the rear tires.
6 equal points of ground contact X 1500 lbs = max loading of 9,000 lbs.
Needed front tires rated at 2855 each to get the full max loading of 11,420 lbs
So, I will try to keep my total Tumber weight around 8,000 lbs or less
but will have 9,000 lbs as a maximum possible total weight if I should
need it.
If I needed a little more tire weight carrying capacity above 9,000
lbs I would have to add some weight back behind the rear axle. The
fulcrum effect would tap into the lost 5,420 lbs of max tire loading
from the rear tires.   vertigo
Post #156866
Posted 5/26/2017 6:46:30 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Today @ 8:34:28 PM
Posts: 1,309, Visits: 2,334
I placed a copy of this post here because this information on
welding up a horizontal triangulated upper axle mount may be of some use to someone planning
and/or building a Bat Vehicle.
Welded up horizontal triangulated upper axle mount for my GM 14 bolt axle truss. vertigo


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Post #156876
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