Jack's Painting Tips
 
   
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Posted 6/11/2007 4:19:41 AM


"Tardmonkey of the Year"

"Tardmonkey of the Year"


Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:43:18 PM
Posts: 3,166, Visits: 3,978
Jack - would you mind sharing the process you used to paint your Bat Cycle? I think you did a fantastic job, and that is just the kind of stuff I want to see here in the Cave Workshop. Thanks!

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For more information on replica Batmobiles and "kits", check out www.thebatcave8k.com
Post #60533
Posted 6/15/2007 1:42:03 PM


finished

finished


Last Login: Today @ 8:09:49 PM
Posts: 4,610, Visits: 14,721
Hey I'm no expert when it comes to paint.  I think Rusty could talk to this better than me.  But I'll tell you what I know.  I use a Craftsmen gravity feed paint gun.  It's not a HVLP gun.  It works okay for a $80 gun.  I do plan to upgrade.  There are just so many types that I want to consult an expert before I shell out $400. 

I do know that the pre-paint prep work is the most important part of the job.  Fist you must ensure the body panels are clean and roughed up so it will accept the body filler.  After I have the bodywork close I use Evercoat Feather Fill primer.  The stuff is amazing.  Often called a sprayable bondo because it goes on in very heavy coats.  it will easily cover 40 grit scratches and other imperfections.  It sands easy and is great for block sanding ton ensure the bodywork is straight.  The primer is also a great sealer and will accept body filler.  Most guys I know now will spray a car's body before they do any of the body work.  I'm telling you this stuff is great.  You do need a paint nozzle that is a bit larger, 1.8 to 2.2.  What I did was buy a cheap gun for Harbor Freight and drill out the orifice a little.  Works great for a $15 gun. 

So once I have block sanded everything I use spot puddy to touch up any small pin holes, etc.  Then I wet sand everything with 600 grit sand paper. Then I apply a primer sealer.  You really don't have to use a sealer with the Feather Fill but I do because I usually sand through the Feather Fill in some areas while block sanding.  The sealer will help ensure the paint is even with no blemishes or discolor. 

Then it's time to paint.  I use around 35psi at the gun, 120psi from the compressor.  I usually apply 3 to 4 coats of paint.  1 light coat, 2 to 3 med wet coats.  Overlapping 25+ percent.  

Help me out Rusty.

Post #60545
Posted 6/15/2007 2:06:03 PM


Whose goin 4 a pint???

Whose goin 4 a pint???


Last Login: 10/1/2008 6:05:03 PM
Posts: 2,860, Visits: 3,896
I pay a guy.

DE 89 IS COMING........

www.stickam.com/profile/de89bat

www.beyondfitness.ie

Post #60546
Posted 6/15/2007 2:35:11 PM


I have the power!

I have the power!


Last Login: Yesterday @ 1:29:32 AM
Posts: 778, Visits: 3,030
wow. that's a lot of work. have any advice for filling/sanding when you don't want to paint it, but just keep the wood tone? i've started working on this:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=HomeDecor/ci_1103_CookUpSomeFun.html&rn=RightNavFiles/rightNavHomeDecor#
The sanding is especially important for me on this project because I didn't buy birch, so I need to smooth out the wood I got. Birch is just ridiculously expensive.
Post #60547
Posted 6/15/2007 2:41:36 PM


finished

finished


Last Login: Today @ 8:09:49 PM
Posts: 4,610, Visits: 14,721
You want the wood look but want it to be smooth?  Sand it, clear coat the crap out of it.  Sand it and ploish it like a car.  It will be smooth, flat, and high gloss. 

Post #60548
Posted 6/15/2007 4:05:53 PM


I have the power!

I have the power!


Last Login: Yesterday @ 1:29:32 AM
Posts: 778, Visits: 3,030
I may paint it if that's what the girl wants. How bad will filler look under the clear coat? I know there are going to be small chips near the edges and joints I'll need to clean up.
Post #60549
Posted 8/3/2008 8:14:08 PM


Junior Member

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Last Login: 10/28/2008 10:56:05 PM
Posts: 29, Visits: 137
if you don't prime or paint the filler it will just look really shinny, if you clear coat over it. thats only if you roughed up the surface first, also make sure the area is smooth. any blemishes in the filler will show up in the finished product.

roughing up the area; what sould be used for this is usually 400 grit sandpaper of its equivalent, meanning gray or red scuff pads. becafeful with the rd scuff pads because they are more agressive than the gray pads and they will create deeper scatches that will show up in the finished product.

you ever dance with the devil under the pail moon light?

Post #71028
Posted 8/4/2008 10:58:52 AM


Junior Member

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Last Login: 10/28/2008 10:56:05 PM
Posts: 29, Visits: 137
another thing i wanted to talk about the other day but didn't have enough time to is pre paint prep. one thing new painters will overlook is good preperation to make your project look that much better.

fish eye: this is a major project killer, but is very easy to pevent. it is caused by contaminents on the surface that form  chemical reaction with paint. many products are sold to help prevent it, prep-all it one of my favorites, soap and water mixed with some cheap degreeser works well too. windex is another product i have been told helps prevent fish eye but don't hold me to it cause i have never used it before to clean pre painted surfaces. also make sure the surface is dry before you start painting , if you don't and the water comes in contact with the paint it will not look too pretty.

you ever dance with the devil under the pail moon light?

Post #71045
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