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 Posted 8/31/2009 4:50:03 PM |
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Forum Member
 
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Looking good! Good job Conrad, and   
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| Posted 9/1/2009 2:25:35 PM |
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Forum Guru
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| Thank you!! And hey it's my BDay all over again! Look what came today!! 
...does it come in black?
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| Posted 9/1/2009 2:30:50 PM |
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Getting Better at Internets
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ZOMG!!! i just had to grab a cup to grab the line of drool pouring from my mouth!!
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me”
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| Posted 9/1/2009 2:31:21 PM |
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| Posted 9/1/2009 4:40:53 PM |
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| was it your birthday yesterday? I missed it, Happy Birthday! I dont think your chain would be too long. dirt bikes have pretty long chains and they do just fine. Do you have a solution planned for the slack the chain/belt will have when the suspension is compressed? a tensioner pulley may work but it looks like you will have a lot of slack the way its configured. I was thinking you could go from the engine strait down to a pulley that is closer to the pivot points of your link bars then back to the axle. you would still need a tensioner but it would only have to correct for a minimal change in tension. Also what about the twisting of the axle? seems like you would need to use a belt as opposed to a chain to deal with the twist.
"there ain't no bat!"
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| Posted 9/1/2009 7:37:25 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/26/2023 1:14:45 PM
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| Hey Conrad, Happy birthday to you. Did you tell us how young you are? I think on the belt or chain length this distance looks correct because the axle will articulate even though the engine remains stationary. The slack in the chain will be proportional to the maximum articulation of the axle . The maximum tilt of the axle from one side to the other. Having too short of a distance would cause the chain to act as a limiter to the axle's movement. Too long of a distance would cause the chain to constantly be falling off during heavy turning. Using a belt would allow the engine and axle pulleys to tilt further, but the sacrifice would be in the amount of slippage of a belt verses a chain. My suggestion would be to use a chain and while the engine is bolted down see if you can fully articulate the axle without the chain binding the movement. Then you could make the chain a few inches longer and use a chain tensioner on the non-drive portion of the chain.( the bottom return of the chain) You could play with the torque using different size primary and secondary sprockets. A small primary sprocket on the engine and a larger tooth secondary sprocket on the axle would create more torque. Lowering the tooth count on the secondary sprocket will give you more speed but at the cost of torque. Either way you may have to use a centrifical clutch if the motor has no internal clutch or gears..... We have a local farm tractor implement shop where they have a lot of sprockets and chains. You should check that out there since the parts are affordable and you may want to play with different sprockets sizes. remember to use correct shear pins or keys to prevent the sprocket from slipping or flying off...A chain guard would be nice too...That's my humble opinion......Again Happy Birthday.....BWD
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| Posted 9/1/2009 9:17:32 PM |
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| as always great suggestions that i will take very seriously (didn't even think of the slack issue till i read beans post). I was leaning towards belt because this golf kart axle used belt originally. so it makes me think of the gears inside the trans/diff. I'm not sure of the original golf kart engine power either, but i've read that these yamaha made axles can withstand up to 30 HP or something like that. So yes...i want the torque and understand why a chain would be better for this. Let's try chain then. Chain guard...check! Yes BWD my 40th Bday was last wednesday. I always say happy birthday to my mom on that day cause she was a pretty big part of why i'm here. like an anniversary of giving birth. Here's to driving this mini Tumbler before I'm 41!
...does it come in black?
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| Posted 9/2/2009 12:12:53 AM |
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| So today...i cut mounts for the shocks 
my cardboard cut out 
more cutting/drilling 
...does it come in black?
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| Posted 9/2/2009 12:23:11 AM |
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| Posted 9/2/2009 1:34:21 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/26/2023 1:14:45 PM
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| Hey Conrad well happy 40th B-day. That's always a milestone in one's life. A time to reflect on where you've been and where you are going. I hope for you the best and may you have great health, wealth and happiness in your life. Yeah panhard bar...That's the name of that item. I remember I had an aftermarket one on that 98 Camaro I had. The interesting thing was not that the bar was made of some heavy duty steel but the mounting points on the Camaro's unibody.You know another option to help in keeping that axle centered and negating one wheel's movement from affecting the other wheel woulb be to consider building or fabricating a sway bar. The sway bar could be made up of a 4' piece of 1" DOM pipe. The ends could be bent. Then the middle section would be attached to the chassis using aftermarket polyurethane bushings and the ends would be attached to the lower two links of the four link system. That would help to keep the axle centered and keep the axle working together......hummm.... Maybe a sway bar assembly from a small 4x4 vehicle like your.......Jeep. Ok here's what you do buy yourself an upgraded aftermarket swaybar for your Jeep and use your old swaybar assembly off the jeep for your mini me.......Just my two cents....BWD
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