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 Posted 5/1/2019 7:44:55 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone planning to and/or building a bat vehicle.
Here is a photo-image of the model I am currently using for my DOJ/Justice League and a second copy of the same model in a disassembled state.
This is the beginning step for a model using strategy of building a bat vehicle from a plastic model.
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| Posted 5/1/2019 9:54:34 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone planning to and/or building a batvehicle.
Here are a few more photo-images that further demonstrate the conceptual value and usefulness.
I like to think of models and scale models in particular as 3D pictorial blueprints.
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| Posted 5/2/2019 11:41:36 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Know certain dimensional reality and expansion of the known reality as a building strategy.
Have you thought about building a wooden proxy seating compartment in 1:1 dimensions to the corvette donor on a proxy wood suspension and fitting your existing or new wood/foam pieces around it.
Or, if you are certain about the corvette donor, buying your donor, and working around it.
That way, you are starting with a known certain dimensional reality, and can build around that known reality, modifying/creating pieces that fit to the known and certain dimensional reality. Thus expanding the boundaries of the known reality.
That, is why I am currently working slowly toward and away from the known and certain dimensional realities of my DOJ/Justice League batmobile, donor Dodge 3500, and operational roadway limitations.
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| Posted 8/7/2019 12:33:00 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to and/or actually building a bat vehicle.
I received an email asking about time management as it relates to bat vehicle building.
This was discussed at length in many of my past postings. Basically I average 1-hour per day per bat vehicle.
The only thing I can add is about not wasting the minutes when you can't find an hour.
When I can't find an hour I can usually find 10-15-minutes. I have some areas I only work on during these 10-15 minute periods. I can usually sneak in enough of these collectively over a day to make my hour. Here are mine.
Grinding, sanding, drilling, filing, clamping, wood patterns/proxy parts, etc. 10-15 minutes at a time.
Adds up faster than you might think.
Cutting, fitting, or tack welding the metal parts that make up an assembly. Around 15-minutes for each piece.
Example:
The step assemblies on my Justice League batmobile.
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| Posted 8/10/2019 8:12:09 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone planning to and/or actually building a Bat-Vehicle
"So are you the one I've heard about whom was working with... another member on a new kit? I'd be interested in details to what would make one purchased shell better than the old and typically purchased ones."
I assume your are talking about 1989 kits or maybe 1966.
No, I'm not the one you refer to.
I've never used a purchased shell but I would assume that some of the attributes to look for would be:
Accuracy of representation to original movie bat vehicle.
High degree of symmetry between the two halves of the shell
Quality of materials and thickness of the shell
Alignment and fit accuracy between pieces
Smooth and even curve gradients and transitions
Sly and others with more fiberglass experience than myself could probably better address your question with their observations.
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| Posted 8/12/2019 9:36:50 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post he for anyone planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle.
sly,
"If you can find a good quality, straight on image (not from an angle) please pass it along. I may be able to use it to make a nice 3d cad file."
I have already thought about this method.
One definitely can make a 3D CAD file from a flat photo-image.
Then this file could be used to mill the side mechanics in one piece or mostly one piece with a few pieces like the spring added to them.
The problem is with the capabilities of a 3 Axis CNC milling table.
To get away from the carved relief effect one would need to be able to find a way to do under cutting.
Also the curved parts.
Would need a 4 to 5 axis milling table.
Could also do the under cutting on a 3-axis table using side cutting mill bits.
Could also cut the panels on 3 axis table and then hand route the under cuts with a depth set side cutting router bit.
There are many ways one can do these panels. vertigo
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| Posted 8/19/2019 8:50:19 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here as an example for anyone planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle with the intention of registering the vehicle as street legal.
Have been researching how to register a custom vehicle as a street legal.
Waiting for an answer from DMV on emission control issues.
How to Register an Antique or Custom Car in the State of Texas
Just like any other car or truck in the state of Texas, custom vehicles and antiques must be properly registered. Registering a newer everyday car certainly differs from the process to register an antique or custom car.
LETS DEFINE ANTIQUE AND CUSTOM BUILT VEHICLES
According to Texas state law a vehicle will be considered an antique if the body, frame and engine are at least 25 years old.
Texas considers a custom or assembled vehicle as a motorized vehicle of any kind that has been reconstructed using a body, frame and a motor. The difference is that it cannot resemble a known brand. When registering this type of motor vehicle, Texas will register the vehicle with the make as “Assembled”. The year of the car will be decided by the year of the body used in the custom build. There is one more category for custom cars which are registered as a”Replica”. These motor vehicles are defined as using a manufactured prefabricated body that resembles a known brand.
REGISTERING YOUR ANTIQUE OR CUSTOM VEHICLE IN TEXAS
The first step will be to take a trip to your local county tax office to begin the registration process.
Make sure you bring the following things with you:
A notarized Title application. If you are attempting to get a title for a new custom or rebuilt motor vehicle you are going to need the Title application.
The Certificate of Title or manufacturer’s certificate of origin. This is for any custom, rebuilt or antique vehicles that have already been titled.
The Bill of Sale showing proof that you own the vehicle and all of the parts/components used in the vehicle.
A completed Builder’s Affidavit if you are registering a for custom or rebuilt vehicle.
If a motor, frame or body has been changed in an existing vehicle it has to be recorded by correcting the Title certificate.
Pencil tracings of the frame, body and motor numbers will be required for all rebuilt vehicles.
The VTR-68-N form properly filled out for reassigned vehicle identification number.
An accurate weight certificate for the vehicle being registered.
Proof of financial responsibility for yourself and the vehicle
You will also need to bring at least one clear photo of the vehicle you will be registering.
A completed application for VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) if the vehicle being registered is located outside of Texas.
Lastly you are going to need to bring in an Inspection report.
This report certifies that the vehicle meets or exceeds the safety regulations to drive on Texas roads.
After a thorough inspection from a Department of Safety inspection station you will receive this report.
Rebuilt and custom vehicles will need this inspection report, however depending on the age of the car, some parts do not have to be inspected unless the original parts have been retained.
ASSOCIATED FEES WITH REGISTERING A CUSTOM OR ANTIQUE VEHICLE
Titling fees will be required when registering a custom or antique vehicle. You will be able to pay this fee with cash, check, money order or credit cards.
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| Posted 9/1/2019 10:10:49 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone planning and/or building a bat vehicle.
vertigo
"After finding several fitting problems I re-checked measurements and calculations. Corrected errors and cut proxy firewall accordingly."
My firewall is an excellent example of why I use the partial proxy method frequently.
A lot depends on getting this firewall correct.
Any non-discovered errors here will have a cascading error effect.
Not just on the proxy firewall but on the overall layout of many other components.
A large area of concern for me at this time is the engine fit.
As it stands right now I have 30 linear inches of open center core in front of the firewall.
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| Posted 9/22/2019 10:15:26 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone planning and/or building a bat vehicle.
"I am new to welding and been learning for a couple of months. How can I use angles and squares while I am welding my pieces together?"
Once you have your angle(s), square(s), etc. cut/grind the corner of each to give you enough clearance to accommodate your raised weld bead and still be able to .measure
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| Posted 10/9/2019 7:29:40 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone planning to and/or actually building a Bat Vehicle.
In the past I would have used a plasma torch to cut the body pieces and panels.
Now, I use metal cutting circular saws to do 99% of my metal cutting of plates, flats, angles, etc. cutting up to 3/8" thick metal with my Milwaukee brand saw.
I am currently fabricating the body of my Justice League batmobile from 1/8th" and 12 gage sheet steel.
I am cutting my 1/8th" and 12 gage steel sheet with a Dewalt 20 volt battery 5-1/2" metal cutting circular saw.
Don't need my bigger Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw for 1/8th" and 12 gage sheet steel.
Also, using a Dewalt 18/20 volt battery Saber/jig saw to cut the curves in the 1/8th" and 12 gage sheet steel.
1/8th" sheet steel is the maximum thickness for effective cutting with a Saber/Jig Saw and quality blades.
My Dewalt 18/20 volt battery Saber/Jig Saw with quality blades cuts 1-2 inches per minute
in 1/8th" and 12 gage sheet steel.
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