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 Posted 7/6/2017 7:02:51 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
What I learned from welding my hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Used standard tactical spaced welding techniques to equalize heated metal expansion and contraction forces.
In spite of rigorous application when the hemi-joint was screwed in it went in easily until it reached a point inside equal to where the threaded insert was welded to the tubing.
When I checked the concentricity (equal roundness) inside it was in round.
So why did the threaded hemi-joint bind.
Called the father of a friend if mine, a retired NASA metallurgist that specialized in extreme welding while working in the space program.
Here is his answer:
"Hemi-joints that thread into threaded tubing inserts will bind if the threads are cut to normal standard fit because when the insert is welded around the outside, the thermal forces from the welding create an inward pressure on the inside threads. It is also the reason that a thread cutting tap is used as standard procedure to true up the threads. The ones that don't bind have much less tightness in their thread fit to address the thermal welding forces."
So, I will be buying right and left hand taps. vertigo
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| Posted 7/10/2017 8:18:12 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Learned this trick from:
THE PRACTICAL MACHINIST
G. Wilson 8-30-2009 05:25 PM
"In the past machinists mostly made their own taps by turning the
desired diameter and threads on a lathe.
This technique is still effective and used a lot more than you might think.
Knowing this technique effectively gives you the entire range of 60°
taps in both RH and LH configurations.
Cut the appropriate sized thread with a lathe on a piece of O1, heat
the tip to red, and quenched it.
Then grind four 30 degree flats. That’s all there is to it.
Hardened bolts in the desired diameter and TPI can also be used to
make taps. No heat treating needed. No lathe needed. Just a grinder.
Might be an easy way to make an inexpensive set of thread clean up
tools for hemi-joint threaded insert bungs from just a RH and LH bolt.
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| Posted 7/11/2017 7:10:58 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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| Hmm.. looks simple enough. Would be interested in seeing how it works out.
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| Posted 7/12/2017 5:17:14 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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I placed a copy of this post here for its potential use to anyone
planning to or actually building a Bat Vehicle.
Miller weld forum: Mig Dual-shield Fluxcore wire has replaced Stick
welding for many processes. So, why do many Mig welders still use
stick welding also?
Stick welding is still used by many Mig welders when the situation
calls for flatter and deeper penetration welds in new structural steel
and when welding rusty, dirty, oily, and painted metal, often in an
adverse environment.
In reality, the choice usually depends on the operator skills,
confidence, and the machine's power. Sure many people can make Mig
welding with gas shielded solid wire look good in flat position with a
few minutes of practice and a well set machine.
They have a much harder time when they are called on to weld on
anything but new, clean, and acetone degreased metal. It may look
good, but the truth is many people just don't have a complete grasp on
the concept and finer details on how to run and weld with Mig.
For one thing, you'll see them running a bead that is much too wide.
Sorry but a .030" wire can't create a good puddle that is half an inch
wide. They rarely get proper penetration because they put most of the
heat into the puddle instead of fresh metal; a disaster in the making.
Stick welding gets a lot of its good properties from the flux. Good
cleaning action which reduces the chances of bad weld quality if there
was any dirt, rust, oil, paint, etc. Penetration will generally be
better, mostly for the untrained.
So, what do professional welders use when they need the benefits of
stick welding? Dual-shield fluxcore is what is used in real
production. It requires a shielding gas. Usually pure Co2 or C25.
Dual-shield Fluxcore has replaced Stick for many processes. It has
good penetration, good weld properties, cleaning action from the flux,
and is capable of very fast deposition rates compared to stick and gas
shielded solid mig wire.
Keep your beads narrow and watch the digging action.
Remember Voltage isn't the heat (amp) control. The wire speed controls
the amperage. Voltage controls wetting action and burn back.”
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| Posted 7/13/2017 7:49:05 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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Mounting tires with starter fluid.
Here is a method used by some off roaders and many others to mount tires.
This is not a method recommended by anyone due to the danger and liability issues associated with the method.
Most use the disclaimer: For Informational Purposes Only
Here is a YouTube video for mounting the 44" inch Super Swamper with starter fluid.
Exploding Super Swamper Mount
TheJhall87
There are thousands of videos that show the starter fluid method to mount all kinds of tires on line.
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| Posted 7/16/2017 8:15:04 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone that might benefit from this information that is planning or building a Bat Vehicle.
Welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts. (bungs)
Here is a really good YouTube video with lots of detail on welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Making Control Arm Links
5-31-2016
BleepingJeep
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| Posted 7/21/2017 8:17:02 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
Projection and Progress Reports are an excellent way to move any Bat
Vehicle build forward. Here is mine for my Tumbler build.
PROGRESS REPORT: 3-months later
Posted this list on 4-21-2017
Vertigo's Tumbler Build Update: Projected close range work.
COMPLETED:
Will be adding and welding in more structural steel tubing to back end
of Tumbler. (completed)
Have ordered 2" X 1/4" wall DOM steel tubing, heavy duty 4-link hemi
end axle suspension kit, heavy
duty axle truss, and associated hemi end connection brackets/mounts.
(completed cutting, welding, and installation)
Have ordered 4-rear 44" Interco SAM-43 Super Swamper tires. Back
ordered until 1-MAY-2017. (completed: in my possession)
Waiting for 2 custom built front wheels. Expected delivery early
June-2017. (Completed: received them in July-2017)
Constructed rear body panels and mounted 4-recessed propane tanks for
rear afterburner assembly. (Completed)
STILL IN PROGRESS:
Once Super Swamper 44" Interco tires arrive will mount one on a single
mount wheel and inflate to proper pressure and use to get accurate
measurements before finalizing design for custom rear wheels. (still
in progress but should not take too much time)
Once design for rear wheels is finalized will order custom wheels and
expect delivery in a month or so. (still in progress: custom wheels
usually take 3-4 months to receive.)
Will also probably end up refitting the GM 14 bolt axle with disk
brakes. (still in progress: but should not take too much time. Hope to
complete by end of July-2017)
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| Posted 7/21/2017 8:26:46 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
Projection and Progress Reports are an excellent way to move any Bat
Vehicle build forward. Here is the new projection report for my
Tumbler build.
A PROJECTION REPORT for close range work is usually aimed at around
3-months into the future. A PROJECTION REPORT’s most significant
advantages are that it will help most Bat Vehicle builders avoid
builder block and that all you need is something to write with, on
something to write on, or an I phone etc… to create/update a
Projection Report on your Bat Vehicle build.
PROJECTION REPORT: Vertigo’s Batman Tumbler
Vertigo's Tumbler Build Update: Projected close range work for next
three months. (For me that is around 100-hours, maybe more.)
Cut and weld propane tank valve protection shields.
I will probably end up not using these tanks because of the risks
associated with being so close to the engine but with heat shields I
could use them and even use a propane engine conversion as well. I am
isolating the driver/passenger compartment from all fuel sources and
potential external fires. I will also install a quality fire
suppression system. I could mount a 5 or 10 gallon propane tank inside
a safety blow out compartment, concealed within the body panels to
power the afterburner as well. A lot to think about on these build
aspects.
Mount one Super Swamper 44" Interco tire on a single mount wheel,
inflate to proper pressure, mount on an axle end with 2000 pounds of
weight, and use to get accurate measurements that include side wall
weighed deflection before finalizing design for custom rear wheels.
Once design for rear wheels is finalized will order custom wheels and
expect delivery in 3 months or so.
Refit the GM 14 bolt axle with disk brake rotors and calipers.
Use 2” X 2” X ¼” wall tubing to build U-shaped upper shocks and
actuators integrated frame assembly.
Cut and weld 2” X 2” x ¼” wall tubing lower support assembly for
U-shaped upper shocks and actuators integrated frame assembly.
Construct and mount proxy shocks between GM 14-bolt axle shock mounts
and U-shaped upper shock mounts on actuators integrated frame
assembly.
Cut and weld in upper Tumber body frame with relevant supports for
contour integrated gull-wing doors.
Cut and weld, blow out compartments concealed within the body panels
for fuel tanks.
Will probably spend any time left over during the next three months on
front steering system and/or on cutting/welding body panels.
This should keep me busy for a while. vertigo
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| Posted 7/22/2017 9:24:16 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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I placed a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
What my experience with welding hemi-joint thread tubing inserts has taught me.
My tubing was 2” X ¼” wall and my hemi-joints were 1-1/4 X 12 TPI and
the matching threaded tubing inserts were just slightly over 1/8”
thick. When you subtract the cut thread depth the 1/8” thick tubing
insert is really about 1.25/32” or approximately .070 thousandths. No
wonder welder heat warps the threads.
One of the most important things that I learned about welding
hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Buy the left and right handed taps for the hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
You will almost certainly need them if you do good solid welds on the
threaded tubing inserts.
If you don’t need the taps there is a very, very, strong possibility
that your welds are not as good as they should be.
I test welded two hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
One I welded with appropriate welder settings and the correct
techniques for good quality welds.
The hemi-joint would not screw in after it reached the inside weld ring.
I used the tap to clean up the threads.
I cut it in half. The weld penetration was complete and well integrated.
The second, I welded with reduced welder settings and the correct
stager and cooling techniques suggested on many of the welder forum
postings.
I coated the hemi-joint with anti-seize compound and still required a
short length of steel bar to screw it into the threaded insert.
I did not need the tap.
I cut it in half. The weld penetration was incomplete and poorly integrated.
It appears that you can’t do a high quality weld and not need to use
the tap on the threads.
Perhaps that why NASA and many high performance car builders use taps
after welding hemi-joint thread tubing inserts. My experience with
welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts tells me that I should
always use a tap after welding. Even the one that I welded with less
quality welding techniques still needed anti-seize compound and a
short length of steel bar to screw it into the threaded insert;
indicating that there were still significant binding forces present.
And a FINAL CAUTION: NEVER WELD A HEMI-JOINT THREADED TUBING INSERT
WITH THE HEMI-JOINT SCREWED INTO IT. THE HEAT WILL ALMOST ALWAYS
DESTROY THE HEMI-JOINT’s TEFLON LINER and make it worthless. vertigo
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| Posted 7/22/2017 9:45:28 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232,
Visits: 5,166
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I placed a copy of this post here because the photo images of the four-link axle system might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.
Finished welding upper four link chassis mounts and completed installation of four-link axle system. vertigo
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