UNIVERSAL BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING, AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
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Posted 9/28/2016 6:13:14 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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SO, WHAT PROCESS METHODS ARE ACTUALLY USED TO PRODUCE BATMAN RELATED FIGURES AND MODELS
I put a copy of this post on this thread because of the material
relevancy of plastic durability, life expectancy, and construction
characteristics to other project building. Vertigo

Processing Methods
There are several different processing methods used to make plastic
products. Below are the four main methods in which plastics are
processed to form the products that consumers use, such as plastic
film, bottles, bags and other containers.

1.
Extrusion—Plastic pellets or granules are first loaded into a hopper,
then fed into an extruder, which is a long heated chamber, through
which it is moved by the action of a continuously revolving screw. The
plastic is melted by a combination of heat from the mechanical work
done and by the hot sidewall metal. At the end of the extruder, the
molten plastic is forced out through a small opening or die to shape
the finished product. As the plastic product extrudes from the die, it
is cooled by air or water. Plastic films and bags are made by
extrusion processing.

2.
Injection molding—Injection molding, plastic pellets or granules are
fed from a hopper into a heating chamber. An extrusion screw pushes
the plastic through the heating chamber, where the material is
softened into a fluid state. Again, mechanical work and hot sidewalls
melt the plastic. At the end of this chamber, the resin is forced at
high pressure into a cooled, closed mold. Once the plastic cools to a
solid state, the mold opens and the finished part is ejected. This
process is used to make products such as butter tubs, yogurt
containers, closures and fittings.

3.
Blow molding—Blow molding is a process used in conjunction with
extrusion or injection molding. In one form, extrusion blow molding,
the die forms a continuous semi-molten tube of thermoplastic material.
A chilled mold is clamped around the tube and compressed air is then
blown into the tube to conform the tube to the interior of the mold
and to solidify the stretched tube. Overall, the goal is to produce a
uniform melt, form it into a tube with the desired cross section and
blow it into the exact shape of the product. This process is used to
manufacture hollow plastic products and its principal advantage is its
ability to produce hollow shapes without having to join two or more
separately injection molded parts. This method is used to make items
such as commercial drums and milk bottles. Another blow molding
technique is to injection mold an intermediate shape called a preform
and then to heat the preform and blow the heat-softened plastic into
the final shape in a chilled mold. This is the process to make
carbonated soft drink bottles.

4.
Rotational Molding—Rotational molding consists of a closed mold
mounted on a machine capable of rotation on two axes simultaneously.
Plastic granules are placed in the mold, which is then heated in an
oven to melt the plastic Rotation around both axes distributes the
molten plastic into a uniform coating on the inside of the mold until
the part is set by cooling. This process is used to make hollow
products, for example large toys or kayaks.

Durables vs. Non-Durables
All types of plastic products are classified within the plastic
industry as being either a durable or non-durable plastic good. These
classifications are used to refer to a product's expected life.

Products with a useful life of three years or more are referred to as
durables. They include appliances, furniture, consumer electronics,
automobiles, building and construction materials, toys, and yes Batman related figures and models..

Products with a useful life of less than three years are generally
referred to as non-durables. Common applications include packaging,
trash bags, cups, eating utensils, sporting and recreational
equipment, toys, medical devices and disposable diapers. vertigo
Post #150468
Posted 10/2/2016 6:37:57 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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I put a copy of this post on this thread because of the material
relevancy of plastic durability and life expectancy characteristics to
other project building. Vertigo

THE COLLECTIVE GROUPING AND SUB-SUMMARIES OF DEGRADATION PROCESSES
THAT WILL EVENTUALLY DESTROY YOUR BATMAN RELATED FIGURES AND MODEL
COLLECTION.

Note: Libraries of books have been written on the degradation of
polymers/plastics. I added this sub-summary information for the Batman
related figure and model collector who burns to know exactly the
absolute truth as to why his collection will eventually fall apart.

The degradation of polymers usually starts at the outer surface and
penetrates gradually into the bulk of the material.

There are many different modes of polymer degradation. These are very
similar since they all involve chemical reactions that result in bond
scission.

Chemical degradation
Chemical degradation refers exclusively to processes, which are
induced under the influence of chemical reagent (e.g. acids, bases,
solvents reactive gases, etc.) Weidner et al. (1996).

Thermal degradation
Thermal degradation refers to the case where the polymer, at elevated
temperatures, starts to undergo chemical changes without the
simultaneous involvement of another compound Guaita et al. (1985).

Biodegradation
Biologically initiated degradation also is strongly related to
chemical degradation as far as microbial attack is concerned.
Microorganisms produce variety of enzymes which are capable of
reaction with natural and synthetic polymers Dindar and Icli, (2001).

Radiolytic degradation
When polymeric materials are subjected to high energy radiation (e.g.
gamma radiation) changes are observed on their molecular structure,
mainly chain scission, which leads to reduction in molar mass Vinhas
et al. (2003).

Mechanical degradation
This generally, refers to macroscopic effects brought about under the
influence of shear forces. These forces result in the formation of
macro radicals. Such radicals can recombine in the absence of oxygen.
In the presence of oxygen peroxy-radicals may be formed, which leads
to the degradation of polymeric chains Potts (1991).

Photo-degradation
Photo-degradation is degradation of a photodegradable molecule caused
by the absorption of photons, particularly those wavelengths found in
sunlight, such as infrared radiation, visible light, and ultraviolet
light. However, other forms of electromagnetic radiation can cause
photo-degradation. Photo-degradation includes photo-dissociation, the
breakup of molecules into smaller pieces by photons. It also includes
the change of a molecule's shape to make it irreversibly altered, such
as the denaturing of proteins, and the addition of other atoms or
molecules. A common photo-degradation reaction is oxidation.
Photo-degradation in the environment is part of the process by which
ambergris evolves from its fatty precursor. Photo-degradation also
destroys paintings and other artifacts.

Light - induced polymer degradation, or photo-degradation, includes
the physical and chemical changes caused by irradiation of polymers
with ultraviolet or visible light. In order to be effective, light
must be absorbed by the substrate (polymeric system). Thus, the
existence of chromophoric groups in the macromolecules is a
prerequisite for the initiation of any photochemical reaction Schnabel
(1981).

Ketones, quinines, and peroxides are initiators for different reaction
degradation or chemical modification occurring in organic compounds
Kaczmarek et al. (1999). They absorb light up to about 380 nm, which
causes their excitation or cleavage to radicals. One may initiate
polymer degradation and other transformation by abstruction of
hydrogen atom from a macromolecule (PH) and formation of polymer alkyl
radical (P.) (Rabek 1993; Rabek 1996).

The influence of low-molecular weight organic compounds such as
benzophenone (BPh), anthraquinone (AQ) and benzoyl peroxide (BPo) on
the photo-processes of polystyrene has been studied. The results
indicate that additives accelerate and increase the photo-degradation
and photo-oxidation of polystyrene Kaczmarek et al. (1999).

Photo-degradation may occur in the absence of oxygen (chain breaking
or cross-linking) and the presence of oxygen (photo-oxidative)
degradation. The photo-oxidative degradation process is induced by UV
radiation and other catalysts (or both) and can be accelerated at
elevated temperatures.

Photo-degradation of polystyrene (e.g. embrittlement and color change)
can take place upon irradiation with a portion of UV light that is
contained within sun light.
Post #150491
Posted 10/2/2016 6:40:14 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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SUMMARY OF DEGRADATION PROCESSES THAT WILL EVENTUALLY DESTROY YOUR
BATMAN RELATED FIGURES AND MODEL COLLECTION.

Polymer degradation can be caused by heat (thermal degradation), light
(photo-degradation), ionizing radiation (radio degradation),
mechanical action, or by fungi, bacteria, yeasts, algae, and their
enzymes (biodegradation). The deleterious effects of weathering on
polymers generally has been ascribed to a complex set of processes in
which the combined action of UV. light and oxygen predominant. The
overall light-initiated process in the presence of oxygen generally is
referred to as oxidative photo-degradation or photo-oxidation. A pure
thermal effect is possible because oxygen is always present and so the
process is thermal-oxidative degradation Feldman (2002).
Post #150492
Posted 10/7/2016 7:12:12 PM
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I put a copy of this post on this thread because of the material
relevancy of plastic durability, life expectancy, and construction
characteristics to other project building. Vertigo

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT POLYSTONE
The new normal for sculpture casting that includes Batman related
figures and busts.

Polystone has a significant weight, porcelain like feel to the touch,
and an incredible ability to capture minute details, making it
unsurpassed in collectible manufacturing materials.

Polystone (resin compound) is a manufacturing medium used for cast
sculptures; it is hard to find one that delivers a cleaner, more
substantial representation of an original sculpture than a product
manufactured in Polystone. Polystone is a compound made up largely of
polyurethane resin mixed with powdered stone additives that give it
added weight and the porcelain or "stone-like" feel that resulted in
the materials name itself. Polystone has higher quality than resin
because of the base materials it uses; mainly minerals such as
aluminum hydrate, as opposed to synthetic materials. Polystone is
durable and highly effective at maintaining a sharp paint finish.
Unlike porcelain which is fired in an oven, Polystone is a cold-cast
material in which no heat is used in the manufacturing process,
resulting in much greater variations of paint finish. Obviously you
have to keep in mind that these are meant to be fragile, high end
pieces. Polystone has similar properties to resin. They are, by
nature, breakable. However, polystone is more durable than resin.
Which is perhaps the reason that Hot Toys and other similar
manufacturers began to make the change from resin to polystone awhile
back in their bust and statue lines. It is typically made for
mass-produced statues, such as Batman figure and bust polystone
cold-casts. Polystone is the least restrictive in reproducing details.
The edges and cuts are the cleanest, and a fair amount of detail can
be put into it. This may be why polystone is now the material of
choice for mass produced high end resin cast figures and busts.
Attached images of polystone Arkum Knight Batmobile.
Post #150515
Posted 10/7/2016 7:29:11 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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I put a copy of this post on this thread because of the material
relevancy of plastic durability, life expectancy, and construction
characteristics to other project building. Vertigo

Care and Repair of Polystone and Polyresin
EBAY site article

WHAT IS POLYSTONE?
A: Polystone is a compound made up largely of polyurethane resin mixed
with powdered stone additives that give it added weight and a
stone-like feel and durability. Items made in Polystone are cold-cast
in which no heat is used in the manufacturing process, resulting in
much greater variations of product finish.

Q: Why do I have to clean my polystone Statue or Bust?
A: One of the main issues for collectors that display their Polystone
pieces is dust. Dust attracts oils and other contaminants from the air
that will eventually cause discoloring to your polystone statue or
bust if left unchecked.

Q: How do you remove dust without destroying my polystone statue or bust?
A: A camera lens brush is great to whisk dust from the delicate areas,
as well as from the hard to reach areas and fine details of a statue.
If you don’t have a camera lens brush, a very soft, medium sized paint
brush can also be used. Next, follow up the dusting with a blast from
a can of compressed air.

Q: Can I wash my polystone statue or bust, or use a wet cloth on them?
A: If you absolutely need to, you can also use a damp, lint-free cloth
on the larger areas as well as the bases to loosen up the dust. Dampen
the cloth with water but never use harsh chemical cleaners because the
chemicals have the potential to permanently damage the paint finish
and even the polystone material.

Q: Can I display my polystone statue or bust collection near a heating
or air conditioning vent?
A: Your collection should not be displayed in such areas because of
the inconsistent room temperature. The statue or bust surface or
integrity could be affected. Keep your collectibles in a consistent
environment.

Q: Will the sunlight affect the paint on my figures if I display them
in a window?
A: Long term exposure to direct sunlight and UV rays will damage your
statue or bust paint as well as the finish over time. All displays
should not be in areas around or next to windows. General electric
indoor lighting will not affect the paint quality of your polystone
collectibles

Q: How do I clean my polyester plants?
A: Polyester plants (sometimes used to add atmosphere around
busts/figures) are very durable but can get dusty. First, move the
plant to an open outdoor area. Using a regular feather duster, start
at the top of the plant and work your way down. For very dusty plants
take a regular garden hose and spray quickly from top to bottom and
let dry completely. DO NOT use an artificial (hair) dryer.

Q: How do I repair small chips, or paint chips on the polystone figures?
A: If you have small chips or breaks make sure you save all the
pieces. You can use the tooth picks to apply the super glue onto very
tight places and your tweezers to place the small pieces back
strategically. You can then use paint to touch up any surface scuffs
or missing colors from the break.

Q: How do I repair broken arms or legs on my polystone statue or bust?
A: Use a toothpick to apply the clear super glue to both the broken
limb and statue or bust. Wait a few seconds for the glue to set up and
align the broken parts. Support may be needed until the glue dries
depending on the size and location of the broken piece.

WHAT IS POLYRESIN?
A: Polyresin is a resin compound generally used for statues,
figurines, and decorative furniture. It is a sturdy material that can
be intricately molded, allowing a great level of detail with
consistent texture. Additives can be added into the compound to
enhance the material's strength, reduce its weight, add heat
stability, and decorative effects.

Q: How do I clean a Polyresin item?
A: If the item has been painted a dusting with compressed air or a
small paint brush is the best. Warm water and dish soap can be used,
make sure to dry the item, but try a small inconspicuous area first if
the item has been painted as some paints are water soluble. Do not use
harsh chemicals.

Q: How do I repair Polyresin?
A: School glue, tissue paper and acrylic paints can repair most damaged statues.

Q: My polystone statue or bust is broken, now what?
A: Don’t panic! Simple breaks and chips can be easily repaired by the
collector at home by following the different types of breaks in the
questions below. The supplies you will need are clear super glue (make
sure the glue can repair plastics and ceramics), tooth picks, small
soft brushes, tweezers, two part plumbers - epoxy putty, and acrylic
paint.
Post #150517
Posted 12/11/2016 8:24:32 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Put a copy of this post here because a working space is necessary for a Bat Vehicle build.
Maybe your need for a work space is holding you back from building your dream Bat Vehicle.
Twelve years ago I needed some extra work space for a project that involved five Navy Seals Fast Attack Dune buggies my friends and I were working on simultaneously. I only had enough extra room for one. Here is how we solved the space needed problem.
1) Bought two 18 x 20 carports for 499.99 (now 699.99) each that included
free assembly and erection on my property. No concrete slab used a dirt floor.
2) Used 20-sheets of 7/16 wafer board (OSB) on each carport and self tapping metal screws to cover the
openings and framed out a 36 inch wide door opening. 200.00 including the costs of the screws. Today
the cost would be 300.00 for each carport.
3) Used 40-2 x 4s for the front and back to make upright frame supports. Front supports could be taken in
and out with screws. About 150.00 each carport.
4) Rolled out the OSB sheets with latex house paint. 100.00 each.
5) Total cost each: around 1,000.00 Today's cost probably around 1,400.00 each.
6) Used extension cords for power.
7) Once you have the carports you can cover them anyway you want. vertigo


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carport kit.jpg (3 views, 78.73 KB)
carport kit-2.jpg (1 view, 109.78 KB)
carport kit-3.jpg (2 views, 152.88 KB)
carport kit-4.jpg (0 views, 120.28 KB)
carport kit-5.jpg (3 views, 120.88 KB)
carport kit-6.jpg (4 views, 152.43 KB)
Post #150759
Posted 12/18/2016 9:40:47 AM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Put a copy of this post here because a working space is a necessity for a Bat Vehicle build.
I was looking through a Northern Tool catalog and I noticed this HEAVY DUTY shelter that can be assembled in 1-2 hours. It looks like it would make for a great build space for those on a budget and needing a good quality space to work in.
The Shelterlogic ShelterTube is built to take on snow loads up to 43 lbs. per sq. ft. and wind speeds up to 80 MPH. This sturdy shelter features a 2in. square steel tube frame with a matte DuPont™ powder-coat finish that resists chipping, peeling, rusting and corrosion. The triple-layer, heat-bonded 9-oz. per sq. meter polyethylene ripstop cover is waterproof and UV-treated inside and out to stand up to the elements. Front 10ft.W x 8ft.H double zipper door is an easy entry point for even the largest vehicles and equipment. The included roll-up door kit helps open and close the door quickly. ThruBolt connections for maximum stability and a rock-solid structure. Ratchet Tite™ system improves tensioning for the cover. Cost: 1,000.oo vertigo


  Post Attachments 
SHEDS.jpg (0 views, 51.88 KB)
SHEDS-2.jpg (0 views, 66.02 KB)
SHEDS-4.jpg (2 views, 19.90 KB)
Post #150805
Posted 1/12/2017 5:38:47 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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I posted this here because it is relevant to those considering CNC milled foam and/or plastic printing methods.
I requested an estimate for a life sized car routed/milled in foam.

“I have a life size concept car file for 7.5' wide X 22' long X 4.5'
tall. My files are STL. I would like to have this routed/milled out in
foam. I am not asking for an exact estimate but rather a price range
for this type of work. I understand that there are many factors to
consider for a true estimate. A price range would tell me if I can
afford to have this work done and not waste your time on a detailed
estimate.”

Here is the reply I received:
“It really depends on the foam. High density urethane foam can cost
$50-70 per cubic ft. A car of this size with 10lb foam $10-22k. I like
to use 1lb EPS and coat it. Using EPS we can profile cut it with our
hot wire saving machine and assembly time. Generally a basic 5 sided
car cut in 1lb EPS $7-10k plus cost of foam.
Hope this helps.
Note 1-pound EPS sell for 4-5.00 per cubic foot
Post #151984
Posted 1/12/2017 5:55:46 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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I posted this here because it appears relevant to those considering routing/milling of foam or printing plastic.
Here is a company that specializes in cars and other large object out of foam.
Worth visiting this site to see what is possible.

CONTACTSCALE
contactscale.com

We specialize in cutting large, sometimes complicated foam objects
such as full-size cars. For a machining quotes or RFQs we will need a
3D file. Contactscale is a full scale 3D shop with 3 types of
services; cutting, molding and proof of concepts. We specialize in
cutting large, sometimes complicated foam objects such as full-size
cars.
Give us a call or email us with any questions about our services. 650-284-4055
Cutting and Machining Capablities:
26 ft x 12 ft x 6 ft tall
● Large parts
● CNC Hotwire 2 and 4 Axis
● CNC Router 3,4 and 5 Axis
Post #151990
Posted 1/21/2017 6:01:05 PM
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I have a Lincoln Arc welder that I like to use when I am welding
something, such as my Batman Tumbler frame, and I want to have
absolute confidence in the weld integrity. With about 20-hours
practice most can be making strong welds in steel. Arc  welds are not
as pretty as Mig, but many welds made by those new to Mig I find
defective. Usually from using to small a unit, that produces too
little heat to get good penetration and fusion, in too thick a piece
of metal. Many of these small units can barely handle 1/8” steel. I
happened to see this reminder summary in an online fabrication article
and I like how it covered all the problems and basics with a minimal
amount of words.

Why Steel Welds Fail and Making Welding Repairs That Last
Making your arc welds permanent
A Reminder Summary of the Essential Basics for Arc Welding
By Grant Andrews

“Welding metal that is too thin to take manual arc welding.

Most failures can be attributed to:
•incorrect preparation
•welding dirty, oily or painted surfaces
•using the wrong electrode
•incorrect welding technique

Preparation
For strength, the weld metal must penetrate the full thickness of the
parent metal. Incomplete weld metal penetration may not be apparent
until after the repair fails.

The main causes of poor penetration are:
•insufficient gap between the two pieces of steel being repaired
 (results in weld metal only being deposited on the surface.)
•using an electrode with too low an amperage
•using an electrode that is too large for the joint
•holding the electrode at an incorrect angle
As a general rule, if the parts being repaired are less than three
millimetres thick, leaving a space between the two parts is essential.
The gap should be about the thickness of the metal.
If the metal is more than three millimetres thick, bevel both edges to
an angle of 45º.

Intrusions
The weld is weakened in proportion to the amount of impurities
present. Impurities can take the form of paint, metal primer, zinc or
zinc oxide from galvanising or galvanic coatings applied to prevent
corrosion, rust, oils, dirt or slag from a previous run of weld metal.
It takes only a few minutes to clean the surfaces adequately with a
solvent or remove rust with a wire brush, steel wool or emery paper.
If the rust is severe, grinding the surface with an angle grinder will
remove the problem quickly. Grease can be removed with suitable
non-greasy solvents such as turpentine and the surface wiped clean and
dry.



Dampness and moisture
Electrodes should be stored in a dry place and should be handled
carefully to avoid damage to their flux coating. Arc welding
electrodes consist of a metal core surrounded by a coating of flux. If
the coating is damaged, striking the arc can be difficult or
impossible, If the electrodes are damp, dry them out for about an hour
in an oven set on 110 - 120°C. Using damp electrodes can result in a
fiery arc, with the weld metal laid down spasmodically and scattered,
rather than deposited in a neat row.

Trapped water in materials to be welded. Steam, generated by the heat,
becomes trapped as the weld metal is deposited and small bubbles of
water vapor appear in the molten metal, weakening the joint and
possibly allowing corrosion.

Electrodes
Using the correct electrode is essential for all welding tasks.
General purpose electrodes, those rated E6012 or E6013, are useful for
welding mild steels in most situations. However, some electrodes are
designed for overhead use, others for downward welding. Even with
general purpose electrodes, using an electrode, that is intended for
downward welding, in an overhead position can result in poor
deposition of weld metal and a weld that is liable to break.

Electric current
Poor contact between the earthing clamp and the work results in
insufficient current available to melt and carry the weld metal.
The arc will be intermittent, with the weld metal laid down in small
blobs instead of a neat straight row. The earthing clamp can look
tight, but if there is any grit under it, poor electrical contact will
be prevented. Clean the metal to remove all the grime, grit and other
insulating matter that could prevent proper electrical contact. The
smaller welders found in home workshops usually have finger-grip
heads, but with use, these can work loose. Always check that they are
secured tight before welding.
Amperage
Set the welder on an amperage that is appropriate to the electrode and
the joint to be welded.
Electrode packets usually have the recommended amperage printed on
them. These will give a high and a low reading, the low end of the
scale being for thin material, the higher setting for thicker metal.
Too little current will be evident by frequent 'sticking' of the
electrode to the metal.
Too long an arc, i.e. the electrode is held too far from the surface,
will produce a lot of heat, which can burn through the metal,
particularly on thinner sections.
The long arc is characterized by excess splatter and a louder
crackling than is usually produced by an arc of the correct length. An
arc that is too short will become obvious when the tip of the
electrode becomes buried in the molten weld metal and slag.

Rate of travel
The speed at which the weld metal is deposited determines its quality.
If the rate of travel is too fast, the weld metal will be thin and
spindly, and perhaps intermittent.
If the rate of travel is too slow, the pool of weld metal will deposit
an excess of weld metal.

Undercutting
The presence of undercutting weakens the weld. The bead of weld metal
should slightly bulge above the level of the base metal.
When undercutting has occurred, the edge of the bead of weld metal
will be slightly below the level of the base metal and will appear to
have cut into it.
The causes of undercutting are:
•high amperage
•too long an are (causing too much heat) the electrode at an incorrect angle
•too large an electrode for the base metal
•incorrect deposition of weld metal, especially on wider cracks or joins
•excessive weaving of the electrode (though some weaving is desirable
for a good weld, too much is a bad thing)

Distortion
Because of the high temperatures involved in welding, the base steel
will expand and can easily twist out of shape. Such distortion not
only leads to unsightly welds, but the weld metal can crack as
everything cools or the base metal can remain permanently distorted
after cooling.
If the crack or join to be welded is long, deposit the weld metal in
short bursts (about 25-50 mm at a time worked in different directions
and, where possible, from different sides) rather than a continuous
run. This will help to minimise overheating and consequent buckling.

Lack of fusion
Lack of fusion occurs when the weld metal fails to fuse, or adhere, to
the base metal and, in accordance with Murphy's Law, usually happens
at the worst possible time. It is caused by insufficient attention
being taken to direct the weld metal or welding electrode, towards the
base metal. This can be overcome by using the correct rate of travel,
the correct amperage, correct electrode, and the operator keeping his
or her mind on the job!

Cracking
Cracks in welds have several possible causes, such as:
•clamping the base metal too tightly using damp electrodes
•using too high a current slag entrapment
•using too large an electrode for the metal being repaired
•too slow a rate of travel
Even tack welds can crack if they are too small. Tack welds about 10
mm long are ideal.
Another common cause of cracked welds is cooling the metal too quickly
after the welding has been completed. It is always tempting to use
cold water to cool the steel down, but the weld should be allowed to
cool slowly to avoid distortion and cracking.

Finishing off
The completed weld should be at least as strong as the original metal
and should be finished off to a professional appearance to minimize
any possibility of corrosion or cracking. Grind off the excess weld
metal, apply a metal primer to prevent rust forming and paint the
surface.”
Post #152040
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