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 Posted 8/1/2016 1:35:55 PM |
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Supreme Being
 
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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Have you tried it? What's your impression. Looks like something I need to get. 
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| Posted 8/1/2016 5:32:06 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Mine won't be delivered until Friday. Bought 2 extra blades.
Did see some cut rates at one site.
1/4" steel at 2 inches per minute
1/8" steel at 6 inches per minute.
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| Posted 8/2/2016 4:58:32 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Any reason to buy a steel cutting circular saw or dry cut saw?
Can’t I just buy the blades and use them in a regular circular saw?
No reason at all if you are independently wealthy and can afford to
waste blades and saws on a regular basis...
First: carbide saws for metal run at about 1/2 the RPMs wood saws do.
At the higher RPM speeds you often dull or strip teeth fairly
regularly. Most guys I know who have even tried the blades "rated" for
higher RPM saws haven't had good luck with the blades lasting all that
long. They cut, but blade life is dismal at best 10-20% of their rated
life at the most.
Second: the problems of lost torque and power. Metal cutting systems
are designed to work in concert for a specific purpose such that the
motors are designed to produce a high torque for power but at a lower
RPM blade speed. Metal cutting saws average 3700 rpm no load, wood
cutting saws do 5800 rpm. Adding a speed reduction system to lower the
rpm of a regular saw creates an attendant reduction in power or more
appropriately torque.
Third: the open vents are a recipe for a short circuit when cutting
metal with a normal saw.
Note you can get away with this more with aluminum than you can with
steel. Most aluminum will cut at speeds just slightly below what you
use with wood, so if you go easy, it's possible to cut alum with
carbide blades at normal wood cutting speeds. But, you are still left
with the risk of a short circuit due to open vents. vertigo
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| Posted 8/2/2016 5:07:26 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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For cutting metal where the metal cutting circular saw blade can’t reach I use these.
These are the blades of choice for use in a reciprocating saw and used by many professionals.
DIABLO-CARBIDE TIPPED-THICK METAL-RECIPROCATING SAW BLADES
6-8 teeth per inch and 6-12 inches long
Diablo's Steel Demon Carbide-tipped reciprocating blades are the first
carbide-tipped blades designed for extreme metal cutting; including
high strength alloys, cast iron, and stainless steel. This high
performance carbide-tipped blade delivers unmatched 20X longer cutting
life than standard bi-metal blades in extreme thick metal cutting
applications between 3/16 in. to 1/2 in.
The blade’s increased body height produces straighter cuts with less vibration.
High performance carbide for greater durability and cutting
performance in thick metal
Enhanced carbide tip to blade connection for extreme impact resistance
1 in. oversized blade body for straighter cuts with less vibration
Perma-SHIELD non-stick coating for less heat and friction
Ideal for cutting steel, stainless steel, cast iron, and other high
strength alloys vertigo
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| Posted 8/3/2016 4:24:16 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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I got these
comments off the Miller welding forum, “We have had both the 8" and
the 14" Milwaukee dry cut saws for almost 2 years and are very
satisfied with them. A slow steady feed is the key to making the
blades last, and don't let up in the middle of the cut or you will be
cutting hardened metal. For the 8" saw you should always ride the saw
against a fence, just a piece of angle clamped to the metal being cut.
Guiding the cut and not cutting free hand will make the blades last a
whole lot longer. Although it doesn't say that you can, we have cut up
to 1" steel plate with it. It's slow, but it does a great job. Harbor
Freight sells 7 1/4" metal cutting blades that will work on it. They
last, and are less than $20 each. The only "negative" I've found with
the Milwaukee, is the lack of a bevel adjustment on the saw (blade
only cuts at 90 deg to the workpiece).” The use of a clamped straight edge guide when using
the metal cutting circular saw is worth remembering. Both for quality of work and
for extending the life of the blade by roughly 5 times. vertigo
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| Posted 8/4/2016 4:04:48 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Here is a post from a professional welder on a welding site that
brings up some feed rate and cooling issues worth remembering. “Get
these blades up to speed and start into the cut carefully. If you
"jab" them you`ll break the tips off the blade. I have used 30 plus of
these blades in my welding shop and they do a great job. My first saw
cut 3/4`s of a mile of 10 gauge steel with these blades plus cutting
bottoms out of metal containers. I had to send the saw in for a
rebuild at that time. They are good for cutting thicker steel also,
but need to run blade free to cool them, like every 6-8 inches in 1/2
inch steel plate. You can cut thicker steel but you need to take your
time and air cool lots. It will cut 10 gauge almost as fast as cutting
plywood - even makes the same sound sometimes. Cuts smooth and leaves
almost no burrs and does not leave steel hot
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| Posted 8/4/2016 4:14:34 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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“The DOJ Batmobile has groove lines around the top front plates. I've
been trying to figure out how to reproduce those. The plates would be
too big for anything but an industrial level mill and I don't think I
can afford that. I don't know of a metal router and that would be
risky at best. But this might work on the straight bits and then would
only have to consider the curves.” Sly
Though this was posted about the B v S DOJ Batmobile it applies as well to several panels on the Tumbler.
An easy way to accomplish pronounced sharp clean groove lines in many
situations is to cut through the groove lines with a sabre saw with
fine tooth blade for 1/16” or less. For thicker metal I use a 1/8”
thick wood template pattern reduced enough to allow centering the
plasma jet shield orifice on the line, temporarily attached with a
little rubber cement, and a plasma torch. (If you need more
information, I covered plasma cutting templates, etc. in the UNIVERSAL
BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING, AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES thread.)
Once I have the panel cut out I reduce the panel by half the width
of the groove I want, while keeping the edge corners vertical. Then I
reduce where the panel was cut from by half the width of the groove
while keeping the edge corners vertical. You could do all the groove
work on the panel alone if you accurately measured and calculated all
the cut parameters correctly. Then I cut out a piece of backer metal
that over laps both sides of the groove by 1-2 inches and weld into
place. You could also not weld in the panel, use Form a Gasket to make
a water seal, and secure with flush screws. I have not checked to see
if the real DOJ Batmobile panels are like this but I suspect they are.
Another method for thin metal is to use an air hammer, preferably with
a trigger controlled variable stroke rate, and a V shaped chisel with
the sharp edges rounded just enough to dent in but not cut the metal.
One could use a similar chisel with a hammer but the longer dwell time
of the human powered strike would introduce more distortion. Trick
with this method is to work slow enough to still have complete control
over following the lines you have drawn with a sharpie and to use
secured straight edges and template guides. Practice on similar
material is required to master this method. To cut rather than dent
the line just leave the V chisel edges sharp. I have seen grooving
done with routers before in composites, aluminum, and steel with
special bits and always with a secured straight edge or template
guide. For steel they used grinder bits. They also wore a heavy
leather welding jacket, welding gloves, and full face eye protection
(a welding helmet with clear lens) and safety glasses under the
helmet. This leads me to believe they were very concerned about their
safety when using the router method, especially with the risks of
grinder bit disintegration. Router bases are available that you can
mount die grinders and drills into to get slower speeds than the
regular router. I would suspect that one might be able to use one of
these with a variable speed drill and a small 4-flute side and bottom
cutting end mill, as long as you used very well secured straight edges
and templates to direct the directional pull of the cutter to pull
towards the very well secured edge at all times. vertigo
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| Posted 8/7/2016 7:43:07 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Hello everyone,
Though this post is the result of brainstorm on the DOJ Batmobile it is relevant to anyone wanting to build a street legal Tumbler.
After looking at all the possibilities for building a street legal B v S DOJ Batmobile and deciding on the route to take one is left with primarily the following choices.
A movie correct externally correct replica in 70% scale with in line seating. Yes they will fit that way if the engine is located in the front. This will give you a vehicle that is approximately 8' - 4" wide and 14' long. From a distance, it will have the low wide look but up closer it will lose the feeling of awe that comes from the massiveness of the original.
Your second route choice and the one I've chosen for myself: Build the body movie correct and full scale, keeping the massiveness of the original and the large tire size. From a side view the vehicle looks full sized because it is. What is lost is width, that low wide look from the front and rear.
Your third route choice is a combination of scales and multi-axis element skewing on multiple continuums that fall between total reality and near abstraction. vertigo
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| Posted 8/8/2016 8:30:00 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 4/6/2024 5:28:59 PM
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I'm going the third route. 
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| Posted 8/25/2016 5:00:06 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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WE HAVE DISCUSSED 3D PRINTING, CNC PLASMA TABLES, CNC MILLING
MACHINES, CNC LATHES, and briefly on mounting a HAND HELD ROUTER or
MIG WELDER on a CNC PLASMA TABLE, but there is one more.
THE DEDICATED CNC ROUTER TABLE
3D PRINTING, except to make small parts, is not practical at this time
for home Bat Vehicle builders, but a CNC ROUTER TABLE is. The CNC
ROUTER TABLE can do everything needed to make large 3D parts such as
those curve laden cabin roof tops, body panels, and most curvy parts.
I AM PLANNING ON USING ONE IN THE FUTURE TO CARVE OUT THE MASTERS for
the B v S DOJ Batmobile CABIN ROOF TOP, TURRET GUN ASSEMBLY, etc., and
some parts on my TUMBLER.
The auto-vehicle, boat, airplane, and thousands of other product
building industries have used computer controlled router tables for
years to make their masters; even, carving full-sized vehicle body
masters.
A CNC ROUTER TABLE is a computer-controlled cutting machine related to
the hand held router used for cutting various hard materials, such as
wood, composites, aluminum, steel, plastics, and foams. CNC stands for
computer numerical control. CNC routers can perform the tasks of many
carpentry shop machines such as the panel saw, the spindle molder, and
the boring machine.
A CNC router is very similar in concept to a CNC milling machine.
Instead of routing by hand, tool paths are controlled via computer
numerical control. The CNC router is one of many kinds of tools that
have CNC variants.
A CNC router typically produces consistent and high-quality work and
improves factory productivity. Unlike a jig router, the CNC router can
produce a one-off as effectively as repeated identical production.
Automation and precision are the key benefits of CNC ROUTER TABLES.
APPLICATIONS
A CNC router can be used in the production of many different items,
such as door carvings, interior and exterior decorations, wood panels,
sign boards, wooden frames, moldings, musical instruments, furniture,
and so on. In addition, the CNC router helps in the thermoforming of
plastics by automating the trimming process. CNC routers can help
ensure part repeatability and sufficient factory output.
QUICK OVERVIEW OF CAM (computer-aided manufacturing)
CAM software makes the CAD drawing/design into a code called g-code.
The code the CNC machine can understand. In short, CNC technology is
not very complicated. It is a tool controlled by a computer. It only
becomes more sophisticated when considering how the computer controls
the tool.
SIZES AND CONFIGURATIONS of CNC ROUTER TABLES
CNC routers come in many configurations, from small home-style D.I.Y.
"desktop" like k2 CNC, to large industrial CNC routers used in sign
shops, cabinet making, automotive, aerospace, and boat-making
facilities. Originally CNC routers added computer control to consumer
router power tools. Although there are many configurations, most CNC
routers have a few specific parts: a dedicated CNC controller, one or
more spindle motors, servo motors, Stepper Motors, servo amplifiers,
AC inverter frequency drives, linear guides, ball screws and a
workspace bed or table. In addition, CNC routers may have vacuum
pumps, with grid table tops or t slot hold down fixtures to hold the
parts in place for cutting. CNC routers are generally available in
3-axis and 5-axis CNC formats. Many manufacturers offer A and B Axis
for full 5 Axis capabilities and rotary 4th axis but you can do most
everything you would need when building with X, Y, Z axis tables.
Home hobby tables are available in 2 x 2, 2 x 4, 3 x 5, 4 x 4, 4 x 8,
and 5 x 10. A 5-6" Z axis depth is standard but 12" is often available
as an option. Prices start at 1,000.00 for small tables such as 2 x 2,
run around 6,000.oo for a 2 x 4, and 10,000.oo for a 4 x 4. There are
some on line that claim you can build your own 4 x 4 table for around
3,000.oo
CONTROLLING THE MACHINE
The CNC router is controlled by a computer. Coordinates are uploaded
into the machine controller from a separate CAD program. CNC router
owners often have two software applications—one program to make
designs (CAD) and another to translate those designs into a 'G-Code'
program of instructions for the machine (CAM). As with CNC milling
machines, CNC routers can be controlled directly by manual
programming, and CAD/CAM opens up wider possibilities for contouring,
speeding up the programming process and in some cases creating
programs whose manual programming would be, if not truly impossible,
certainly impractical.
A TYPICAL CNC WOOD ROUTER
A CNC wood router is a CNC Router tool that creates objects from wood.
CNC stands for computer numerical control. The CNC works on the
Cartesian coordinate system (X, Y, Z) for 3D motion control. Parts of
a project can be designed in the computer with a CAD/CAM program, and
then cut automatically using a router or other cutters to produce a
finished part. The CNC Router is ideal for hobbies, engineering
prototyping, product development, art, and production work. These are
found in every movie production PROP SHOP of any size and used mostly
to cut foam. They usually have several with a Z axis depth range of 12
inches. Many movie sets contain >50% foam and routed foam parts
finished in unique ways.
Note: A CNC PLASMA TABLE can be converted by adding a Z axis and a
router to do 3D cutting. This will most likely be my method to route
my Bat Vehicle parts. vertigo
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