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Posted 7/21/2016 4:30:33 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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“As for the Mobius model, I don't know if the Hot Toys one would be
helpful or not. I think it would be nice to have but, as you have
said, not necessary. One problem with the 1:25 scale is that it is so
small that any slight variation in measurement is greatly exaggerated
when "blown up.” Slynake

My way of dealing with the problems associated with exaggerated errors that are due to slight variations in measurement with scaling up the 1:25 scale will be to:

Use the highest resolutions in scanning and in programs such as
Photoshop and other CAD/CAM programs, etc.

Scale up in steps. First 1:25 to 1:6.

Clean up the edges and intersections.

Print out physical 1:6 scale copies of parts and other image files.

Use these to create, assemble, and draw my blueprints.

Clean up edges, intersections, and fit between parts.

Then I’ll scan in my 1:6 blueprints and individual part sheets.

Then I’ll scale my 1:6 blueprints in sections and part sheets up to
1:1 or other scale.

From the 1:1 blueprint sections and part sheets I’ll create my DXF cut
files and other relevant templates. vertigo
Post #150027
Posted 7/26/2016 6:10:58 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
PLASTIC MODEL REVERSE ENGINEERING
UP-SCALING and 3D VIRTUAL MODELING
From existing physical parts and other models

The available plastic and die cast models available world-wide number
over a million catalog numbered model kit types available with some
kits still available from 1951 when Revell introduced the first all
plastic kit. The first plastic models were injection molded in
cellulose acetate but currently most plastic models are
injection-molded in polystyrene, which was discovered in 1839. Eighty
percent of the plastic model cars sold are scaled between 1/20 -1/32
with 1/24 -1/25 being the most popular.

Virtually every life-sized replica vehicle and even the Batmobiles,
Tumbler, Bat Pod, and other Bat Vehicles, most likely owe their
creation to a plastic model somewhere. With such modeling resources
available, what builder could resist such a tempting reservoir of
information, and why should he? So, how can we extract the very
useable information from a plastic model?

Reverse engineering, also called back engineering, is the processes of
extracting knowledge or design information from anything man-made and
re-producing it or re-producing anything based on the extracted
information. The process often involves disassembling something such
as a plastic model and analyzing its components and workings in detail
and measurement.

As computer-aided design (CAD) has become more popular, reverse
engineering has become a viable method to create a 3D virtual model of
an existing physical part for use in 3D CAD, CAM, CAE or other
software. The reverse-engineering process involves measuring an object
and then reconstructing it as a 3D model. The physical object can be
measured using 3D scanning technologies like CMMs, laser scanners,
structured light digitizers, or Industrial CT Scanning (computed
tomography). The measured data alone, usually represented as a point
cloud, lacks topological information and is therefore often processed
and modeled into a more usable format such as a triangular-faced mesh,
a set of NURBS surfaces, or a CAD model.

Reverse engineering is also used by businesses to bring existing
physical geometry into digital product development environments, to
make a digital 3D record of their own products, or to assess
competitors' products.
Post #150059
Posted 7/29/2016 7:40:18 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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vertigo's methods:
USING THE MOEBIUS MODELS TO GENERATE SCALABLE MEASUREMENTS,
BLUE PRINTS, AND MODULES

Obtain 4 shallow (approx. 4” deep) plastic boxes with lids and label them.

WHOLE VIEW

MODULE DIVISION

DISSECTION

SECTIONAL SLICING

Place the kit contents into each box.

Now, while you watch TV, etc. This is going to take some time.
This next step will help you become very acquainted with the DOJ Batmobile.

Carefully separate all the plastic parts in each kit from the plastic
casting trees using a sharp Exacto knife and small sharp diagonal
cutting pliers while being careful not to cut too close.

This next step will enhance your relationship even further.

Carefully, using sharp exacto knifes, half inch wide flat files, emery
boards (fingernail files), and sand paper, etc. affectionately remove
and polish off the remnants of the plastic casting trees that still
remain on each individual part. Completely, on the kit you will build
completely as your whole view, and partially, on the three other kits,
with focus on the parts you will use in MODULE DIVISION, DISSECTION,
and SECTIONAL SLICING. Don’t try to rush this stage with a powered
Dremel tool (small hand grinder) or you will degrade the quality of
your work significantly. Note: You will need to totally build the
SECTIONAL SLICING model if you plan to SECTIONAL SLICE the model as a
whole intact vehicle. You may need a second SECTIONAL SLICING model.
That will depend on your strategy of slicing. vertigo



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MODEL-BREAKDOWN.jpg (9 views, 236.26 KB)
Post #150078
Posted 7/30/2016 7:53:44 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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vertigo's methods of reverse engineering plastic scale models
I like to use compartment divided cases, in particular the Dewalt cases from Home Depot, to organize model parts that will be used for MODULE BUILDING, DISSECTION, and SECTIONAL SLICING.


  Post Attachments 
MODEL YELLOW PICT0002.jpg (8 views, 244.42 KB)
MODEL YELLOW PICT0008.jpg (7 views, 267.66 KB)
Post #150088
Posted 7/30/2016 8:54:23 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
PLASTIC MODEL REVERSE ENGINEERING
UP-SCALING and 3D VIRTUAL MODELING
I have given you my methods of reverse engineering plastic scale models to extract knowledge, such as, multi-dimensional detail and measurement, without any high dollar use of 3D
scanning technologies like CMMs, laser scanners,
structured light digitizers, or Industrial CT Scanning (computed
tomography).

With CONSTRUCTED MODEL, MODULE CONSTRUCTION, PART DISSECTION, and SECTIONAL SLICING
completed I now hold what I like to call PICTORIAL BLUE PRINTS. Most all multi-dimensional measurements are present in these PICTORIAL BLUE PRINTS waiting to be released from invisibility by translation. Translation can be as simple as using a ruler to measure between any two points on the models.

The next step is converting the PICTORIAL BLUE PRINTS into translated paper and digital blue prints, part files, CAD, 3D CAD, CAM, CAE or other software and finally into DXF cutting and machine files. vertigo
Post #150094
Posted 7/31/2016 7:50:26 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Have measured out to reconfigure my straight Tumbler arms into the movie correct angled arms.
Was not looking forward to having to use a cutting torch and cut off grinder to complete the job.
Today I happened to see this metal cutting circular saw in the Northern Tool catalog. A eureka moment for me.
I can see a lot of uses for this saw on this build.
This Milwaukee 8 in. Metal Cutting Circular Saw delivers faster, cooler, cleaner metal cutting. Forget the showers of hot metal chips and sparks that were once an aerial threat on the job. This saw shears with a virtually spark-free wake and cool, burr and scorch-free edges that don't require post-cut finishing. Metal shavings are effectively contained with a durable magnesium blade shield and channeled into the saw's integral chip tank. It makes tough cuts: up to 10-Gauge sheets and 1/4 in. steel plate cuts all day, every day. Even more extreme cuts, up to 3/4 in. steel plates, are possible. Specially formulated cermet tip metallurgy and tooth geometry ensure these incredible blades cut faster, stay sharp longer and resist more impact, resulting in less blade changes.
•Driven by a powerful 13 Amp (1-3/4 max HP), 3700 RPM motor and equipped with a full grill of razor-sharp, cermet-tip teeth
•Durable blade shield with integral chip tank deflects/collects hot chips and sparks
•Plunge lever for fast, effective plunge cuts
•Exclusive quick-release shield latch for fast waste disposal and blade changes
•2-9/16 in. cut depth for 1-pass cuts through most common materials
•Dry-cut technology provides faster, cleaner, more affordable metal cutting
•Cool cutting also means that materials can be handled almost immediately, reducing downtime
•Premium cermet-tipped blades cut faster, cleaner and longer than other carbide-tipped or friction blades
•5-year limited warranty
•Comes with carrying case vertigo


  Post Attachments 
Milwakee metal saw.jpg (5 views, 12.18 KB)
Post #150101
Posted 8/2/2016 4:59:52 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Any reason to buy a steel cutting circular saw or dry cut saw?
Can’t I just buy the blades and use them in a regular circular saw?

No reason at all if you are independently wealthy and can afford to
waste blades and saws on a regular basis...

First: carbide saws for metal run at about 1/2 the RPMs wood saws do.
At the higher RPM speeds you often dull or strip teeth fairly
regularly. Most guys I know who have even tried the blades "rated" for
higher RPM saws haven't had good luck with the blades lasting all that
long. They cut, but blade life is dismal at best 10-20% of their rated
life at the most.

Second: the problems of lost torque and power. Metal cutting systems
are designed to work in concert for a specific purpose such that the
motors are designed to produce a high torque for power but at a lower
RPM blade speed. Metal cutting saws average 3700 rpm no load, wood
cutting saws do 5800 rpm. Adding a speed reduction system to lower the
rpm of a regular saw creates an attendant reduction in power or more
appropriately torque.

Third: the open vents are a recipe for a short circuit when cutting
metal with a normal saw.

Note you can get away with this more with aluminum than you can with
steel. Most aluminum will cut at speeds just slightly below what you
use with wood, so if you go easy, it's possible to cut alum with
carbide blades at normal wood cutting speeds. But, you are still left
with the risk of a short circuit due to open vents. vertigo
Post #150109
Posted 8/2/2016 5:08:12 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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For cutting metal where the metal cutting circular saw blade can’t reach I use these.

These are the blades of choice for use in a reciprocating saw and used by many professionals.

DIABLO-CARBIDE TIPPED-THICK METAL-RECIPROCATING SAW BLADES
6-8 teeth per inch and 6-12 inches long

Diablo's Steel Demon Carbide-tipped reciprocating blades are the first
carbide-tipped blades designed for extreme metal cutting; including
high strength alloys, cast iron, and stainless steel. This high
performance carbide-tipped blade delivers unmatched 20X longer cutting
life than standard bi-metal blades in extreme thick metal cutting
applications between 3/16 in. to 1/2 in.

The blade’s increased body height produces straighter cuts with less vibration.

High performance carbide for greater durability and cutting
performance in thick metal

Enhanced carbide tip to blade connection for extreme impact resistance

1 in. oversized blade body for straighter cuts with less vibration

Perma-SHIELD non-stick coating for less heat and friction

Ideal for cutting steel, stainless steel, cast iron, and other high
strength alloys vertigo
Post #150113
Posted 8/3/2016 4:14:03 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
It appears to have a depth adjustment in the pictures. I got these
comments off the Miller welding forum, “We have had both the 8" and
the 14" Milwaukee dry cut saws for almost 2 years and are very
satisfied with them. A slow steady feed is the key to making the
blades last, and don't let up in the middle of the cut or you will be
cutting hardened metal. For the 8" saw you should always ride the saw
against a fence, just a piece of angle clamped to the metal being cut.
Guiding the cut and not cutting free hand will make the blades last a
whole lot longer. Although it doesn't say that you can, we have cut up
to 1" steel plate with it. It's slow, but it does a great job. Harbor
Freight sells 7 1/4" metal cutting blades that will work on it. They
last, and are less than $20 each. The only "negative" I've found with
the Milwaukee, is the lack of a bevel adjustment on the saw (blade
only cuts at 90 deg to the workpiece).”
Post #150116
Posted 8/4/2016 4:05:34 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Here is a post from a professional welder on a welding site that
brings up some feed rate and cooling issues worth remembering. “Get
these blades up to speed and start into the cut carefully. If you
"jab" them you`ll break the tips off the blade. I have used 30 plus of
these blades in my welding shop and they do a great job. My first saw
cut 3/4`s of a mile of 10 gauge steel with these blades plus cutting
bottoms out of metal containers. I had to send the saw in for a
rebuild at that time. They are good for cutting thicker steel also,
but need to run blade free to cool them, like every 6-8 inches in 1/2
inch steel plate. You can cut thicker steel but you need to take your
time and air cool lots. It will cut 10 gauge almost as fast as cutting
plywood - even makes the same sound sometimes. Cuts smooth and leaves
almost no burrs and does not leave steel hot
Post #150124
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