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Posted 10/13/2014 11:53:03 AM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,

Spent the evening setting up blocks, positioning Tumbler front suspensions arms, and measuring for the spring shock arm actuators.


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Post #121839
Posted 10/16/2014 3:14:29 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,

A friend stopped by today while I was stick welding on my Tumbler and asked “which gives you a stronger weld – stick or Mig?”

“MIG will THEORETICALLY provide a stronger weld since you do not have stop/start locations or slag inclusions to worry about. However this is assuming the very best circumstances, including a welder who really knows what he is doing.  Under normal circumstances 90% of welders will make a stronger weld with stick, since stick doesn't require much skills or knowledge of the process to make a good weld. There's no gas to worry about, and just one control knob. It's not hard for even an ignorant (unaware of relevant knowledge) beginner to make a stick weld with passable weld fusion and penetration. ANYONE can figure out the correct settings for stick, through dumb-luck trial-and-error. In contrast you simply can't depend on trial and error with MIG. The problem with MIG is most MIG machines out there are both seriously underpowered (under 200 amps output.) Secondly, in my experience it's rare to find a welder that has the correct knowledge and experience to utilize the MIG process to anywhere near its true potential. The result of these two is that it is common to find MIG welds with severe, unacceptable lack-of-penetration and lack-of-fusion defects. Sadly 99 out of 100 welders never or only rarely test their MIG welds they make for strength and weld fusion. They don't realize that the most important part of a weld is in the middle where it can't be seen. To give you a specific example. A lot of welders think it's acceptable to use dirt-cheap 100% CO2 with the low-current short-circuit transfer mode, for welds on thicker steel plate over 1/8". A lot of welders also think it's OK to use one setting on their MIG machine for any and all welds.  I've run across welders who have been in the business 30 years who do this. In reality the performance of a MIG weld depends on: 1) Knowing the ideal voltage, WFS, and best shield gas for ANY given thickness of material. 2) Having a machine that can back you up with enough current. It's a poorly known fact that MIG requires 50-100% more current than stick welding. Without 1 and 2, at best you'll be welding a lot slower than you need to, at worst you'll make a weld that looks pretty, but is completely defective.”  Source: Pro welder.

Post #121844
Posted 10/19/2014 9:35:54 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,
Tried to assemble my Tumbler front arms, shafts, sheathes, and bearing assemblies. Found that welding had caused enough distortion in the sheathes to prevent the insertion of the core axles. Using a bimetal hole saw mounted on an extension I reamed the interior of the sheathes to regain enough clearance for the core shafts. 6-hours later I was finally able to mount my left side arm assembly.


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Post #122855
Posted 10/19/2014 9:47:32 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,

Probably will take another 6-hours for the other Tumbler arms assembly. Then I plan to weld on the shock actuator arms using the following technique.

A few days ago a casual friend of mine stopped by with his dad who was visiting from out of town. So as usual we went into my shop to talk about the Tumbler. Before long his dad and I were talking about welding. Turns out his dad use to work for NASA as an engineer specialized in metallurgy. So, I took the opportunity to ask him about welding on metal parts that contained bearings. "Three rules will protect most bearings, he said." (1) Isolate your project from all grounding out sources with non-conductive supports or if using metal jack stands place non-conductive isolators under them. Also, keep your project and isolators dry. (2) Maintain the same length on your welding leads and do not use cables with cracks or compromised insulation. (3) Keep your ground lead clamp within 6-inches of the actual welding. Grind to bare metal before attaching your ground each time you move your ground. Use a heavy solid copper grounding clamp. This seemed to me like something every Bat Vehicle builder will face in constructing their build. vertigo

Post #122856
Posted 10/21/2014 9:33:03 AM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,

The second part of my discussion with the retired NASA engineer was about welding on vehicles with electronics present. “Always remember that welding circuits will search for the path of least resistance. So, keep your grounding clamp on bare metal and welding, as close together as practical. That’s why good automotive welders can get away with a lot. But if you want to be as safe as possible here’s what you do.”  (1) Do your welding in dry clothes wearing dry gloves while standing on isolators. (2) Disconnect both battery leads. (3) Disconnect ECUs and anything else with a computer chip. (4) Pull all your fuses. (5) Disconnect alternator.  “Or pull all your electronics if you are working on something that absolutely can’t fail.”

I also researched this topic on the internet and found this posting on the Miller Welder sight: “Any sane ECU manufacturer would have MOV filters and other forms of filtering the power inputs to the ECU. A lot of alternators are very noisy, along with the high voltage ignition system creating a lot of EMF and the ECU still has to run under these conditions all the time.  I work in an Electronics Engineering field (even though I am mechanical…) and I deal with ECU development and harness designs every day. The one big thing to watch out for is back feeding through components, which would be rare in this case. It doesn’t hurt to unhook an ECU because you never know if your welder is putting out enough EMF to overcome the filtering circuit on the ECU due to it being a high voltage arc onto the chassis of the car.”

Post #122861
Posted 10/25/2014 8:26:11 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,
Spent 8-hours working on the second Tumbler arm's core shaft, shaft sheath, and flange bearings. I have spent a couple hundred hours in researching and building four attempts on my Tumbler's front suspension arm assemblies before reaching a state of satisfaction and confidence. vertigo
Post #122900
Posted 10/25/2014 8:55:21 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,
Finally finished and installed my main Tumbler core suspension arms in their flange bearings. Decided to apply a coating of Pro 15 to reveal their true beauty. Next step will probably be making and installing suspension arm shock actuators before starting on the core front axles. vertigo


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Post #122901
Posted 10/27/2014 1:16:17 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hello Everyone,

I mentioned using POR 15 on my Tumbler. This is one product you really want to read the instructions on before using in a well ventilated area. Wear gloves also mainly because regular solvent won't clean your hands. This is an outstanding product.  

This is the best rust prevention coating I have found .

POR-15 Information

POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is a high performance coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is non-porous and seals and protects many surfaces from water, chemicals, salt, and other corrosive contaminants. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is an effective anti-corrosive and rust preventive coating that offers superior chemical resistance due to its dense, cross-linked molecular composition and non-porous attributes.

The secret lies in POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating's curing process. Most paints dry through evaporation, but POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating dries faster when moisture is present. It has the opposite chemistry of ordinary paints. Now add to that POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating incredible hardness, toughness, and flexibility and you have a coating that is practically indestructible. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is great for auto restoration, and protecting valuable equipment against rust and corrosion

Call on POR-15 to restore your car with a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel and prevents recurring rust by sealing your metal against exposure to moisture. The high-tech, high performance, rust-preventive coating designed for direct application on rusted metal surfaces not only covers the existing rust, it also prevents the reoccurrence of rust. Available in clear, gray, silver, and black, these non-porous POR-15 rust preventive paints are ideal for a quick improvement.

Post #122914
Posted 10/27/2014 10:18:13 PM
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Last Login: 11/8/2019 8:14:51 PM
Posts: 98, Visits: 812
Thanks for the info. Does the POR 15 brush on or get applied through a spray gun? Also ever think of setting up a photo bucket account for your pics to organize your project photos? I think it works better then the attachments and lets you organize your photos better as well as post them to the site so its a win win. The only downfall is if your account is ever closed your forum posts won't have any photos in them....
Post #122920
Posted 10/27/2014 10:27:41 PM
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Last Login: 11/8/2019 8:14:51 PM
Posts: 98, Visits: 812
Also as far as the welding goes I have seen it go both ways. I know stick welders that use one kind of rod for everything They also don't adjust the voltage settings either and when there are grounding issues a poor buzz box really starts to fall apart or worse yet using rods that are bad and have moisture build up or are old and brittle. Same goes for MIG welders not just settings but there are different wire types that get fed through the MIG. Personally I like the MIG better but it has to be a nice MIG welder and like you said it needs to have JUICE as well as a decent duty cycle. If those requirements are met then I would much rather go with a MIG if possible. My 2 cents worth.
Post #122921
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