Vertigo's Tumbler Build
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Posted 7/14/2017 8:48:58 AM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
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Mounting tires with starter fluid.
Here is a method used by some off roaders and many others to mount tires.
This is not a method recommended by anyone due to the danger and liability issues associated with the method.
Most use the disclaimer: For Informational Purposes Only
Here is a YouTube video for mounting the 44" inch Super Swamper with starter fluid.
Exploding Super Swamper Mount
TheJhall87
There are thousands of videos that show the starter fluid method to mount all kinds of tires on line.

Plan to use this method today to try and mount one of my Super Swamper tires on a test steel rim.
If successful I will air up to proper pressure and take all the relevant measures for use in determining the appropriate dually spacing. vertigo
Post #159132
Posted 7/16/2017 1:16:22 PM
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Last Login: 9/5/2017 3:35:28 AM
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what i love about your page all ways little bits off info all ways comes in handy. i do the same when comes to it
Post #159140
Posted 7/16/2017 8:05:42 PM
Supreme Being

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hey gez,
Thanks for the kind words.
Really love your build.
vertigo
Post #159141
Posted 7/16/2017 8:16:45 PM
Supreme Being

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Welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts. (bungs)

Here is a really good YouTube video with lots of detail on welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Making Control Arm Links
5-31-2016
BleepingJeep
Post #159144
Posted 7/21/2017 8:19:26 PM
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PROGRESS REPORT: 3-months later
Posted this list on 4-21-2017

Vertigo's Tumbler Build Update: Projected close range work.

COMPLETED:

Will be adding and welding in more structural steel tubing to back end
of Tumbler. (completed)

Have ordered 2" X 1/4" wall DOM steel tubing, heavy duty 4-link hemi
end axle suspension kit, heavy

duty axle truss, and associated hemi end connection brackets/mounts.
(completed cutting, welding, and installation)

Have ordered 4-rear 44" Interco SAM-43 Super Swamper tires. Back
ordered until 1-MAY-2017. (completed: in my possession)

Waiting for 2 custom built front wheels. Expected delivery early
June-2017. (Completed: received them in July-2017)

Constructed rear body panels and mounted 4-recessed propane tanks for
rear afterburner assembly. (Completed)

STILL IN PROGRESS:

Once Super Swamper 44" Interco tires arrive will mount one on a single
mount wheel and inflate to proper pressure and use to get accurate
measurements before finalizing design for custom rear wheels. (still
in progress but should not take too much time)

Once design for rear wheels is finalized will order custom wheels and
expect delivery in a month or so. (still in progress: custom wheels
usually take 3-4 months to receive.)

Will also probably end up refitting the GM 14 bolt axle with disk
brakes. (still in progress: but should not take too much time. Hope to
complete by end of July-2017)
Post #159152
Posted 7/21/2017 8:29:33 PM
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PROJECTION REPORT: Vertigo’s Batman Tumbler

Vertigo's Tumbler Build Update: Projected close range work for next
three months. (For me that is around 100-hours, maybe more.)

Cut and weld propane tank valve protection shields.

I will probably end up not using these tanks because of the risks
associated with being so close to the engine but with heat shields I
could use them and even use a propane engine conversion as well. I am
isolating the driver/passenger compartment from all fuel sources and
potential external fires. I will also install a quality fire
suppression system. I could mount a 5 or 10 gallon propane tank inside
a safety blow out compartment, concealed within the body panels to
power the afterburner as well. A lot to think about on these build
aspects.

Mount one Super Swamper 44" Interco tire on a single mount wheel,
inflate to proper pressure, mount on an axle end with 2000 pounds of
weight, and use to get accurate measurements that include side wall
weighed deflection before finalizing design for custom rear wheels.

Once design for rear wheels is finalized will order custom wheels and
expect delivery in 3 months or so.

Refit the GM 14 bolt axle with disk brake rotors and calipers.

Use 2” X 2” X ¼” wall tubing to build U-shaped upper shocks and
actuators integrated frame assembly.

Cut and weld 2” X 2” x ¼” wall tubing lower support assembly for
U-shaped upper shocks and actuators integrated frame assembly.

Construct and mount proxy shocks between GM 14-bolt axle shock mounts
and U-shaped upper shock mounts on actuators integrated frame
assembly.

Cut and weld in upper Tumber body frame with relevant supports for
contour integrated gull-wing doors.

Cut and weld, blow out compartments concealed within the body panels
for fuel tanks.

Will probably spend any time left over during the next three months on
front steering system and/or on cutting/welding body panels.

This should keep me busy for a while.   vertigo
Post #159157
Posted 7/22/2017 9:30:21 PM
Supreme Being

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My tubing was 2” X ¼” wall and my hemi-joints were 1-1/4 X 12 TPI and
the matching threaded tubing inserts were just slightly over 1/8”
thick. When you subtract the cut thread depth the 1/8” thick tubing
insert is really about 1.25/32” or approximately .070 thousandths. No
wonder welder heat warps the threads.

One of the most important things that I learned about welding
hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.

Buy the left and right handed taps for the hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.

You will almost certainly need them if you do good solid welds on the
threaded tubing inserts.

If you don’t need the taps there is a very, very, strong possibility
that your welds are not as good as they should be.

I test welded two hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.

One I welded with appropriate welder settings and the correct
techniques for good quality welds.

The hemi-joint would not screw in after it reached the inside weld ring.

I used the tap to clean up the threads.

I cut it in half. The weld penetration was complete and well integrated.

The second, I welded with reduced welder settings and the correct
stager and cooling techniques suggested on many of the welder forum
postings.

I coated the hemi-joint with anti-seize compound and still required a
short length of steel bar to screw it into the threaded insert.

I did not need the tap.

I cut it in half. The weld penetration was incomplete and poorly integrated.

It appears that you can’t do a high quality weld and not need to use
the tap on the threads.

Perhaps that why NASA and many high performance car builders use taps
after welding hemi-joint thread tubing inserts.  My experience with
welding hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts tells me that I should
always use a tap after welding. Even the one that I welded with less
quality welding techniques still needed anti-seize compound and a
short length of steel bar to screw it into the threaded insert;
indicating that there were still significant binding forces present.
And a FINAL CAUTION:  NEVER WELD A HEMI-JOINT THREADED TUBING INSERT
WITH THE HEMI-JOINT SCREWED INTO IT. THE HEAT WILL ALMOST ALWAYS
DESTROY THE HEMI-JOINT’s TEFLON LINER and make it worthless.   vertigo
Post #159162
Posted 7/22/2017 9:49:18 PM
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I placed a copy of this post here because the photo images of the four-link axle system might be of some benefit
to someone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Finished welding upper four link chassis mounts and completed installation of four-link axle system. vertigo


  Post Attachments 
PICT0002 (13).JPG (16 views, 342.51 KB)
PICT0010 (12).JPG (14 views, 323.50 KB)
PICT0047 (1).JPG (11 views, 390.39 KB)
Post #159167
Posted 7/23/2017 2:19:39 PM
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looks great v man.. iam just started my axle , clean up job did my nut, but ive just fitted 2 bars tomine today 2 to go.. i see you have gone with drum breaks with yours, how come
Post #159171
Posted 7/23/2017 7:39:10 PM
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hey gez,
I have already bought new disk brake rotors and calipers and will be doing the brake conversion in the near future. vertigo
Post #159173
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