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Posted 3/5/2011 5:10:54 AM |
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Posted 3/5/2011 10:10:07 AM |
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Hey T-Man can't wait to see how this all turns out. I love ratrod styles just because they are made to match the individual and you never have to be too fancy with it or anything like that. Also that was a very pretty owl up on that telephone wire. Over here we have barn owls that nest in one of our old watering towers we have on our property and they have chicks and we get to look down and watch at the grow. The light in the tank really isn't great for any pictures though.
Oh and it would be pretty damn funny if sites started using the middle finger and the bird to describe how people like the videos but personally I miss the 5 star rating system on youtube.
"I am the night"
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Posted 3/6/2011 10:00:59 PM |
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T-man, I think your HF welder could do it. I'm using the same welder for my build and its all 1/8" thick....so far. But I'm sure that Lincoln is nicer to work with. I thought I'd suggest a portable band saw for you. I don't know how much of an angle it can do on 2"x4" yet. But, I picked up the $75 HF band saw and it has been soooooooo much nicer than my chop saw. It comes with a wood blade so you do have to also buy metal blades with it.
I'm looking forward to the rat rod Are you just doing to frame or do you get to work on other parts of it too?
"there ain't no bat!"
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Posted 3/7/2011 4:11:50 AM |
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Posted 3/9/2011 12:08:00 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Hey T-man, of course I have some pics of the links for the 4-link suspension. We use some pretty big heim joints. Then there are treaded bungs welded onto each end of the DOM tubing. triangulation is the name of the game here....dave actually I just remembered that Summit racing had a pre-fabricated set up. Already cut ready to weld....CEE-2017 $212
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Posted 3/9/2011 5:02:45 AM |
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Posted 3/9/2011 10:28:26 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Hey T-man, I would recommend a C- notch in the frame over the rear axle and leaf springs under the rear axle. That is the cheapest way to go with the least amount of fabrication...If you were asking...Lol...dave
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Posted 3/9/2011 11:23:06 PM |
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Posted 3/10/2011 2:40:03 AM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Hey T-Man, if you imagine dropping a frame as low as you can the chassis will actually sit on the top of the rear axle. Can't go any lower unless you c-notch the frame. It basically a new piece of frame that looks like a C shape. You cut the area over the rear axle and take the c-notch and weld it to reconnect the frame rail. It looks like a C but you rotate it forward so that the C-notch will allow the frame to go even lower.Then the leaf springs go under the axle and attach to the frame rail. all this allows the frame to be slammed. In the picture of the rat rod you can see part of the frame rail between the cab and the bed is equal to the level of the axle. I recommend you don't cut the complete floor out of the cab but instead channel the cab. Right where the cab sits on the frame rail you cut that part out and weld a piece of square tube that is open on one side right into the bottom of the cab floor. Then the square tubing will slide over the frame rail to drop the cab lower onto the frame rails. Hope that makes sense...dave
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Posted 3/13/2011 12:10:32 AM |
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