Drive Shaft Questions
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Posted 12/21/2010 3:59:44 PM


Supreme Being

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Last Login: 11/29/2023 6:02:47 AM
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Hi guys,

I was curious on what setup you guys used for your drive shaft. My plans are to keep the engine mounts in the same place and lengthen the drive shaft.

A local race shop suggested using a two piece drive shaft like an extended cab pick-up. But I'm afraid that the mount to hold the center joint would end up being in the middle of the cabin where I don't have much room.

So.. the question is.... what are you guys doing for your drive shaft setup. I've tried doing some searches but I haven't found much.

Thanks,

Tim


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Post #82588
Posted 12/21/2010 11:34:44 PM


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Hey Brucewane, my understanding is most of the guys are moving the engine backward so that the engine can go lower once it gets past the front axle or engine cradle. In that case the driveshaft is shorten. If you chose to leave the engine where its at and the engine clears the body then the frame is usally extended requiring a longer shaft. The question is can the shaft be lengthen and still clear the floor pan. The engine/tranny angle will stay the same but the rear axle might have to be tilted to prevent binding at the rear differential. Having essentially two axles supported by a carrier bearing would work but the bearing would have to be supported structurally to the frame. I would try the lengthing of the driveshaft ($100) first and tilt the differential if needed. Remember to allow for the axle movements in lengthing and shortening at the yoke of the transmission. First make sure that the engine in its current place will clear the body/hood area of the 89. Hope that made some sense.BWD
Post #82592
Posted 12/22/2010 12:57:55 PM


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Thanks Dave,

Since I'm staying with the fuel injected engine it sounds like I should have lots of hood clearance leaving it mounted in the stock position. Most of the guys I've talked to when a non fuel injected 350 small block route where clearance was an issue.

We were thinking about welding in a carrier bearing into the frame and going with a drive shaft that would mate up to the caprice transmission. I'm trying to find which extended cab trucks may have used the same transmission as the caprice so that it can mate up to the transmission nicely. That way the second drive shaft could be lengthened and the yolk welded onto it.

I'm wanting to keep the transmission tunnel fairly small and the big question will be at what point will the carrier bearing need to be welded in, and what will that do to the interior and transmission tunnel width.


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Post #82595
Posted 12/22/2010 12:59:52 PM


Supreme Being

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I guess I could always go the route of moving the engine back and lowering it the same distance as I stretch the frame. That way I would re-use the same drive shaft but would have extra fabrication costs on creating a cross member and mounts for the engine.

Basically... if the wheelbase stretch is 25" then move the engine back 25"


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Post #82596
Posted 12/22/2010 10:01:27 PM


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Have you tried fitting the body over the engine? If it would work then it just might be a lengthening of the driveshaft and slight rotation of the rear axle. Man that would be easiest for you. Just make sure its done by a reputable driveshaft specialist and then balanced. Yeah the fuel injected engines are definitely lower but once you go to a lower profile tire you need to drop the body for the correct look. I started with a Cadillac frame and once I got to trying to fit the body that engine was way too high even with the taller Cadillac wheels and tires. Good luck...BWD
Post #82601
Posted 12/23/2010 8:04:39 AM


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I'm starting to think more and more that moving the engine back the same distance as the stretch and lowering it would be the best design going forward.

It would give me lots of options for engines down the road and would better balance the car. Plus the drive shaft would stay the same.


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Post #82603
Posted 12/23/2010 10:59:18 AM


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Hey Brcewane, yeah I wouldn't stress on keeping the driveshaft the same. That's a function of the driveshaft having the ability to slide as the rear differential moves up and down' The yoke at the tranny needs to be able to slide in and out over the transmission output shaft. As long as the engine is moved back enough to clear all the pulleys at the front of the engine and the oilpan is not below the front axle then the driveshaft can easily be shortened and balanced($75). Just make sure you have movement at the front yoke.

If you have the yoke pushed all the way into the tranny and your driving along the road and hit  a bump. The upward movement of the rear axle will cause the distance between the tranny and the rear differential to shorten and the yoke needs to slide further onto the output shaft. If you do not allow for this that same bump will cause the yoke to jam into the tranny and bind then damage the tranny. There is a measurement like 1 1/2 inches needed of forward play. But cutting and reshortening the shaft is easy. Dual driveshafts with carried bearings and pinion angles calculations is hard.

 Imagine spinning a pencil in between your hands like a driveshaft. Then imagine spinning the same pencil that has a u-joint in the middle. The centrifical force that wants to push that u-joint outward needs to be contained with the placement of the carrier bearing. This is definitely a keep it simple moment.....Hope that helps. I have some pics that I could post on your thread if its OK with you and if I can find them...BWD

Post #82606
Posted 12/23/2010 12:06:33 PM


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Thanks Dave,

Feel free to post pictures in my thread

I'm not really concerned with keeping the drive shaft the same length.. More of what you are talking about. Trying to avoid a dual drive shaft with a carrier bearing.

I'm more thinking that moving the engine back and down will give me more freedom down the road and a simpler axle setup.

The guys doing the engine mounts and drive shaft work are top notch guys with Ford racing experience So we should be good with the technical details.. just looking for the "best" approach and not necessarily the cheapest.


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Post #82608
Posted 12/24/2010 1:53:04 PM


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Hey Brcewane, I think that's a good decision also improving the handling and lowering the center of gravity. Another thought is to create a cross brace under the engine mounts that bolt to the chassis. That will give you addition frame rigidity/strength and would give you the ability to remove the engine and tranny down rather than up. With the body mounted this gives you yet another option. I created a removable motor mount like this for the Rumbler that incorporated a transmission mount so that the engne and tranny are on the same mounting platform and can be removed as one unit.....just a thought...BWD
Post #82618
Posted 12/24/2010 4:05:39 PM


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Last Login: 11/29/2023 6:02:47 AM
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Cool, Thanks for the ideas Dave!

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Post #82621
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