What to look for in a Batmobile Kit
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What to look for in a Batmobile Kit Expand / Collapse
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Posted 7/11/2010 7:24:40 PM


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Here is a brief discription in what to look for in a kit, I am sure I am leaving out a few.


Things to look for when looking to purchase an 89 Batmobile. Many people ask what are the differences between the different kits and builders. Most of the kits out there originated from Bob Butts molds that were taken from Jay Ohrburg’s car. Bobs molds were sitting in Bob’s property landfill for over a year before being sold to Yancy & Pruitt. Over that time the molds became warped for obvious reasons. One builder took one of the pulls from these molds and after sitting in the hot sun and elements for well over a year and molded the car without fixing any of the flaws from the original molds. Another builder made molds by making each panel separately and then glassing each panel together after being pulled from the molds causing misalignment and panel variations. Also with the molds being passed around many components are distorted or entirely missing, side latchment doors, side mechanics, trunk lid, gun doors and side round exciter grappling cover. Depending which kit you are looking at most of the problems are the same and not limited to a dip in the hood centerline.

 

The major items to look for is the body panels straight or wavy check rear fender areas, hood dip, front sides around the Frisbee launch doors, the rear upper top intake mold line usually has a “V” type dent across the middle. Most gun doors I have seen are very warped. Check for canopy and trunk lid for misalignment. Look at the headlight and intake area head on and check for one side not matching the other side. When the body is sitting on a flat surface are all the sides and corners sitting flat and level or is a corner pulling upward a sign of warp age. Check for the front grills forward of the canopy their should be 27 openings for the grills on both sides. See if your builder has incorporated these grills or include grill inserts that can be molded into the body. Keep in mind no fiberglass kit is perfect and you can expect to find flaws in almost any kit on the market today. But you shouldn’t spend more in fixing flaws in the kit that what you paid for the kit.

 

When looking for a kit ask lots of questions ask for good clear pictures. Ask what is in the kit where it originated from, the only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask.

Post #80662
Posted 7/12/2010 8:35:21 AM


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Good info Kevin, should help a lot of prospective buyers out there. One thing... I thought the front canopy grills were 26 on each side? 



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Post #80674
Posted 7/12/2010 11:50:04 AM


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Guess that explains the stinkin' dip issue

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Post #80676
Posted 7/12/2010 8:18:11 PM


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Now your going to make me go all the way out to the shop and recount the openings.

Also ask what materials are used in the construction of the kit. Is it blown or hand laid is just mat used or is a combination of mat and sewn cloth used in the lay up process. In larger areas a special structural mat can be used to strengthen the structure. What type of resin used in the process. There are several types of resin used in the kit car industry; the majority of structural components are made with three main types, namely polyester, vinylester and epoxy.

 

Polyester is the most commonly used and the cheapest and most widely used. Vinylester is five times stronger than polyester, water proof and flame resistant and fairly expensive. Epoxy is the strongest with the least amount of shrinkage, used in aerospace industry and competitive automotive, and boat racing and the most expensive and used by experienced professionals.

 

I have just scratched the surface of materials used in the construction of a fiberglass car; this is a general items to look for.

Post #80681
Posted 7/14/2010 2:30:19 PM


"Everything was beautiful and nothing hurt".

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Last Login: 5/11/2012 1:52:58 PM
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You are correct Kevin, 27 openings on the front canopy grills. 

Now why did I think 26 ? 



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Post #80730
Posted 7/15/2010 7:45:18 AM


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Remember the first drawings we did had the 26 openings then when we went back and counted it was 27.
Post #80739
Posted 7/15/2010 7:12:21 PM
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That's a damn nice summary Kevin. I have a question. What's your opinion on offsetting shipping cost by buying kits with known flaws? I see few posts here where people willing to risk buying from sellers with bad rep by offsetting the cost of shipping and fixing the kit themselves.
Post #80748
Posted 7/18/2010 1:42:58 PM


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Cutting Costs:

The cost saved by buying a rough kit trying to save money on shipping. Shipping from one coast to the other can range from $1,200 to $2,000 depending on how and who you use as a shipper. If you want to save on shipping you can pick up your kit your self or fly out and rent a U Haul truck or trailer.

 

Years ago no one had much of a choice where their kit came from much less the quality of the kit. Most individuals were just happy to have a kit and paid a premium price for the kit, even with parts missing from the kit. Most were very thin warped, nothing fit properly and a nightmare to straighten out.

 

Even if you do all the bodywork yourself you still wont be able to recoup what little money you will save on the transport costs. No kit is perfect and all need some work as any fiberglass kit; this being said many kits are just trash and the headache is not worth the time and effort put into the bodywork. Do yourself a favor and get the best kit you can afford you wont regret it. You will however regret cutting corners on shipping verses quality of your kit ultimately the choice is yours.  

Post #80775
Posted 1/3/2011 1:35:57 PM


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Some really great information here. Thanks for your post Kevin.
And your website looks great. LOL I think I got an email from the canada hack you mentioned in your website yesterday!


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