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 Posted 9/26/2013 10:12:57 PM |
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Junior Member
 
Last Login: 8/18/2018 12:19:17 AM
Posts: 13,
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I am speechless with your hardwork sir. Much respect, I see you have went through the major pain of designing it yourself, I think I am the last one to realise on this forum my goal of building batpod and if I succeed then I shall continue to next step tumbler. Your tumbler is simply amazing, looks like lot of hard work and passion.
Some men just want to watch the world burn.
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| Posted 10/10/2013 12:01:18 AM |
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Junior Member
Last Login: 7/24/2018 12:59:26 PM
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Amazing....I wouldn't know how or where to begin.....excellent work!
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| Posted 10/16/2013 2:01:04 PM |
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Junior Member
Last Login: 10/4/2017 5:05:50 PM
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AWESOME!!!!!
Criminals are a superstitious and cowardly lot.
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| Posted 3/4/2014 4:02:07 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Visits: 5,166
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| Hey youngbat, I know you said you built your Tumbler from photographs. Opened a thread on analyzing photographs in the main forum. Hope you will contribute some of your knowledge on how its done and what problems to look out for.
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| Posted 3/12/2014 12:25:06 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 12/9/2018 8:47:32 AM
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funny you mentioned that, cause I was just thinking of doing so.
What I would like to do, is not cover basic welding, or mechanical issues, which tons of people know, but to cover things that I have encountered along the way. pertaining to this particular car. Note that I am refering to an exact replica build, not cutting corners, in the likeness. IF you change much at all on this car from the original, now you're working in a whole different place. so some or many of my suggestions might be moot. So this pertains to a car where the exterior is almost 100% to the originals.
1. Use ONLY the heaviest gauge steel you can. keep the wall thickeness at least 1/4"
2. Do NOT use power inverters for things like cameras, etc.. they are expensive, huge, and a big pain. not really meant for use while driving. use only electric parts that are made for 12 volt batteries.
3. Start out by getting a good drivable chassis first. then add stuff.. slowly. rust proof everything to the max.
4. Use digital gauges. not just for bling, but those glowing numbers are much easier to see in that very dark cabin, then any anolog gauges.
5. Buy ONLY THE best car items. i.e. don't let anyone try to talk you into getting something less quality even though they may trying to help save you money. go for ONLY the finest quality, lines, bolts, etc..etc.. car guys will assume that you are only gona drive it back and forth at 5mph. do NOT build it with this in mind. build it like you will be driving it 2hrs a day. you will thank me later.
6. DO NOT use a V-boat drive. yes the original stunt cars did. But these things are not the only solution to the reverse engine dilima. look at Jay leno driving one of the original stunt cars on youtube. they eat up space as well.
7. re-inforce everything to the max. use batteries made for excessive electrical loads, i.e. stay away from Wal-mart stuff.
8. In the begining keep everything basic, down to earth, simple, and logical, easy to fix, easy to make. You don't need that 5k lathe, but you will need a darn good reliable welder, a chop saw, a recipicating saw, an angle grinder, a drill press. Everything heavy duty, down to earth, logical, simple. Mounting this engine in reverse and getting the steering to work smoothly will be exotic enough.
9. KILL SWITCH. envaluable. do your OWN work on the electical stuff. reason: because if you hire it out, now when you want to add something, you will have to re-hire that person,, money money money.. if you do it yourself, you will be the master of the system. Now.... in regards to that. you will want a KILL SWITCH. this disables ALL electrical current going to the wires from the battery so when you are working, adding stuff you don't get zapped... and in the event you wire something wrong, it won't drain/destroy your 300.00 battery. yes your 300.00 battery.
10. Modular wiring system... just like a computer programmer. top down design.. if I want to add another linear actuator to get another pair of air foils moving, once I get the actuator, and stuff in place, the easiest part is wiring it up. I came up with a plugnplay system of adding electrical stuff. Get it ALL off those battery poles. You should only have the kill switch, and heavy wires leading to a easy access place( for a battery tender), from those battery poles.
11. The original cars used mostly fiberglass body parts. I agree with this. Not all parts need to be fiberglass/steel. 1. there is a certain look that you will get, which is the look of the originals(when using fiberglass), you can tell when someone brake pressed, or just welded a bunch of flat steel, or aluminium for body parts. 2. weight. in order to do steel you will have to go w/ at least 12gauge, remember you got a first stage body, then all the stuff on top of that, gona be one HELLVA heavy car. keep it light as much as you can, but reinforce w/ steel when ness. There are some places that I use only steel, but not a lot. do best of both worlds.
12. re-inforce body parts that people are likely to step/stand on. and believe me they WILL. they will wiggle the air foils, and those front fender things, they will get wiggled, and leaned on to the max. and then there's the afterburner. Most touched part of this car. they will try to work their fingers in between each plate of metal, and see if it will bend.. yup. demographically mostly men between the ages of 30, and up. mostly car guys. they CANNOT keep from wiggling, touching, sticking their heads between the swampers and the rear air foil to look at the engine, even when it's running. I have to watch them like a HAWK. Watch out for dads standing little johnny on the front tires, to take a pic. those body parts all come to sharp points. i.e. people will do stupid stuff.. they love this car which is great.. but in the excitement they sort of loose some common sense, you have to provide that for them.
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| Posted 3/12/2014 12:53:37 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 12/9/2018 8:47:32 AM
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I will add thoughts as they occur. These are things that are just based on my experiences with this car since I started back in 2005. This is not to say that I know how to do everything better than anyone else, it's just the world of this car as I have experienced it. I am at the add bling/improvement stage. someone here once said that you don't own these cars, they own you. this is correct. This is of course assuming you aren't bruce wayne rich.
here's a couple more:
I thought about making a model when a started, but realized that it would have cost me a lot in time just to make one. so I went ahead with full-size. As far as using blueprints: beware, know the car in your head. I think that when people want blueprints, what they really want is to not have to THINK. you should want to KNOW this car. Also I used to think that the Hottoys tumbler looked pretty accurate until I saw one in person. not so anymore. Get this car in your head before you start, unless of course, you just want it to vaguely resemble, it. which then anything goes.
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| Posted 3/12/2014 1:29:08 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 11/29/2023 6:02:47 AM
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Visits: 3,970
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Absolutely AWESOME advice Bob!!!
Heed all off these comments. I know from past car work if you get the "cheaper" route, it will either (a) end up failing or (b) you'll end up eventually buying the part you wanted down the road so now you're double the spend.
I would also agree with the comments on a model first.. I went down that route originally and then found myself saying, oh crap, now I need to do this all over again.. .should have just started building it for real.
As far as wiggling.. I've watched kids use my 30cals as monkey bars and 30 yr old women climb up on the back of the car using the afterburner as a step to sit on the roof, people sitting on the front turbine etc. Stuff that will make you cry and make you say to the person WTF are you doing? People care about the photo-op, not how much time and effort you have put in the car.
I've always been of the mind of over build it... it will take longer, but will save you heartache and headaches down the road. Anything you can do yourself, you should do yourself. You need to know the car inside and out on how it was built.
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Building the BatBerry - Batmobile powered by BlackBerry 
http://batberry.wordpress.com/
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| Posted 3/12/2014 6:01:18 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 12/9/2018 8:47:32 AM
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One more issue comes to mind. inside Camera glare at night. I will tell some of my experiences with this.
another one is sway. The car is essentially a big tri-cycle. wide in the back narrow in the front, and the big rear shocks are close together. got thoughts on these issues. and stories to tell.
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| Posted 3/12/2014 7:17:52 PM |
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Supreme Being
Last Login: 11/29/2023 6:02:47 AM
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Visits: 3,970
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youngbat (3/12/2014)
One more issue comes to mind. inside Camera glare at night. I will tell some of my experiences with this.
another one is sway. The car is essentially a big tri-cycle. wide in the back narrow in the front, and the big rear shocks are close together. got thoughts on these issues. and stories to tell.
Cool, looking forward to hear your thoughts.. all my "mirrors" are cameras with night vision.. I'm interested to hear from you on how well/poor that works out at night with headlights
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Building the BatBerry - Batmobile powered by BlackBerry
http://batberry.wordpress.com/
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| Posted 4/1/2014 10:21:29 PM |
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Forum Member
Last Login: 12/9/2018 8:47:32 AM
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mine have night vision as well, but with the tumbler you have this big nose-like thing right in the center. During the day it doesn't seem to be that much of a problem seeing out, but at night it really seems to cut down on your visability, having the monitors on is somewhat like having the interior lights on while you are driving(I can dim them). You can do it, but it does feel not as safe. am looking into thermal cameras. and also HUD displays. Note that I use one-way bronze heat-treated reflective glass. you can see out fine, but others outside the car can't see in as well.
Some small but annoying things. gas pedals. I have yet to find a gas pedal that works for me right outa the box. But I found this great NO_SKID aluminum stuff that you couldn't slip on if you had stepped in oil. So I am gona mod the pedal I have with this stuff. the tread is like 10grit sandpaper, w/ metal for particles. So, am gradually turning this car into something extremley durable. I'd say that u end up building this car more than once in a manor of speaking. First pass you get it looking correct. subsequent passes are about durabiliy, and being realistic. i.e. what really works well, what doesn't, or what is really bulletproof in a sense. Am adding an airlift system to the front end this month. I will be posting videos, interior, driving etc. flames, this spring/summer. Also will be jumping it.
Am also working on a new afterburner that opens and closes. I see my car as a constant evolution.
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