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Posted 7/2/2008 2:00:17 PM |
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Resident CLTC
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Prep is fairly easy clean off any grease and oils surface rust is no problem. I use a good pressure washer to clean up the frame. Por 15 is fairly thick but it flows very nice, I just brush it on and it looks great, it comes in various colors. To do an entire frame it usally takes a couple of quarts, when cured it is hard as a rock.
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Posted 7/2/2008 2:30:51 PM |
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Forum Guru
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Posted 7/2/2008 3:19:33 PM |
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Resident CLTC
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Not really; I use Purple Power in one of the power washer tanks and that works just as well. You could also spend even more time by sand blasting the entire frame.
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Posted 7/2/2008 3:40:28 PM |
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Posted 7/2/2008 4:45:38 PM |
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Underprivileged
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In my experience, yes the chemicals make for a far better finish, both aestehtically and durability. Here is the process: Scrape, sand brush and or blast all the loose rust. Degrease; the marine clean POR sells is some seriously strong detergent that has the benefit of leaving a protective film on the metal. The etching acid, disolves some of the rust and etches the good metal for a better paint bond. I have substituted ZEP Calcium, lime, rust remover found at Home Depot for their etcher; works nearly as well and is a lot cheaper. Zep also makes some industrial degreaser thats almost as good as the marine clean. You should do two coats; the coating goes a long way and it is not benenficial to lay on one thick coat, it will bubble as it dries and you will end up with hollow painted areas....plus you always miss some spots and will undoubtedly have some fish eye spots show up. When this stuff gets on your skin it does not come off, use gloves and disposable brushes. I would suggest you buy some thinner/remover as well; works as long as the paint is not dry. Be careful of your hootus!! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18595 As far as POR vs Rustbullet, POR is not UV stable and requires work to top coat after its dry. Rustbullet is UV stable and is easy to paint over. It is better to buy several small cans than one large one. These coatings dry with the slightest exposure to air and even when well sealed the remaining coating will harden in the can....not to mention reopening a can of POR sometimes takes processes that will completely destroy the can. Oh, lastly, these coatings are self leveling, if prepped properly you will swear that its a powdercoating and will be smooth shiny and as strong if not stronger than real powdercoating.
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Posted 7/2/2008 6:13:45 PM |
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DH was once A mail order bride...............
Last Login: 12/22/2020 2:14:32 PM
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N8 I sandblasted frame then sprayed POR then painted frame with Dupont black frame paint all seems to be very durable.
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Posted 7/14/2008 2:00:36 PM |
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Forum Guru
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Here is a picture of the correct late 60's Barris Batmobile #1 beacon (the red unit). The amber unit is the modern version of the red unit. I just compared all my 3 units to some b&w 1966 Barris production photos.... the best confirmation is this red beacon has the correct lamp socket square black plug-in spade connector in the base (under dome near lip) and correct dome socket rivets on top to hold lamp socket, directly into dome (overhead metal bracket now holds socket on modern units). Riveted clamped lamp wire direct to dome side, too. Other older and newer MV units do not have that black connector....they have a round wire grommet instead. The (red beacon) round basic reflector is offset away from lamp.... the newer units (amber beacon) has a socket cut-out for tighter spin of "lightly rippled" reflector around lamp. The red has a little metal idle pulley......newer unit has plastic white (or sometimes black) slightly larger idle pulley. Smaller-thinner drive belts on older....longer-fatter drive belts on newer MV units. Double bend short reflector bracket for old...single bend tall for modern. Spun base on old..... pressed aluminum base on modern. The company started as Trippe in 1922. They produce automotive and theatrical lighting..... MV, as I recall, stands for Multiple Voltage. This model beacon is produced in most all DC and AC voltages for users. If you need any automotive emergency lighting or tear shaped lens, go to 'The Lighthouse'.......they have a warehouse in Los Angeles, San Diego and all over USA. Here is a picture of the correct late 60's Barris Batmobile #1 beacon (the red unit). The amber unit is the modern version of the red unit. I just compared all my 3 units to some b&w 1966 Barris production photos.... the best confirmation is this red beacon has the correct lamp socket square black plug-in spade connector in the base (under dome near lip) and correct dome socket rivets on top to hold lamp socket, directly into dome (overhead metal bracket now holds socket on modern units). Riveted clamped lamp wire direct to dome side, too. Other older and newer MV units do not have that black connector....they have a round wire grommet instead. The (red beacon) round basic reflector is offset away from lamp.... the newer units (amber beacon) has a socket cut-out for tighter spin of "lightly rippled" reflector around lamp. The red has a little metal idle pulley......newer unit has plastic white (or sometimes black) slightly larger idle pulley. Smaller-thinner drive belts on older....longer-fatter drive belts on newer MV units. Double bend short reflector bracket for old...single bend tall for modern. Spun base on old..... pressed aluminum base on modern. The company started as Trippe in 1922. They produce automotive and theatrical lighting..... MV, as I recall, stands for Multiple Voltage. This model beacon is produced in most all DC and AC voltages for users. If you need any automotive emergency lighting or tear shaped lens, go to 'The Lighthouse'.......they have a warehouse in Los Angeles, San Diego and all over USA.
www.StarCarCentral.comwww.Fireballrun.com
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Posted 7/16/2008 4:07:16 PM |
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Posted 9/6/2008 5:32:37 PM |
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Posted 12/15/2008 2:23:22 PM |
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Forum Guru
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Hey guys, long time and all that. I am still collecting metal, and building the dash in my garage, but KITT showed up and as i am going to use my knight rider car as a daily driver, it went to the front of the line. I should have more time to post stuff and photos during the holidays of my progress. Merry christmas!
www.StarCarCentral.comwww.Fireballrun.com
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