Nate's Build
Batmobile Forum
 Batmobile Home          Batmobile Builders     Calendar     Who's On

Welcome Guest ( Login | Register )
        


«««6970717273»»»

Nate's Build Expand / Collapse
Author
Message
Posted 7/2/2008 2:00:17 PM


Resident CLTC

Resident CLTC


Last Login: 3/15/2020 8:47:47 PM
Posts: 2,316, Visits: 8,793
Prep is fairly easy clean off any grease and oils surface rust is no problem. I use a good pressure washer to clean up the frame. Por 15 is fairly thick but it flows very nice, I just brush it on and it looks great, it comes in various colors. To do an entire frame it usally takes a couple of quarts, when cured it is hard as a rock.
Post #69916
Posted 7/2/2008 2:30:51 PM


Forum Guru

Forum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum Guru


Last Login: 11/8/2019 7:12:25 PM
Posts: 894, Visits: 624
so  you don't think the two prep chemicals they sell are worth it or needed?

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SSK&dept=1


www.StarCarCentral.com

www.Fireballrun.com

Post #69917
Posted 7/2/2008 3:19:33 PM


Resident CLTC

Resident CLTC


Last Login: 3/15/2020 8:47:47 PM
Posts: 2,316, Visits: 8,793
Not really; I use Purple Power in one of the power washer tanks and that works just as well.

You could also spend even more time by sand blasting the entire frame.

Post #69918
Posted 7/2/2008 3:40:28 PM


Forum Guru

Forum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum Guru


Last Login: 11/8/2019 7:12:25 PM
Posts: 894, Visits: 624
one or two coats for  your car?


www.StarCarCentral.com

www.Fireballrun.com

Post #69919
Posted 7/2/2008 4:45:38 PM


Underprivileged

UnderprivilegedUnderprivilegedUnderprivilegedUnderprivilegedUnderprivilegedUnderprivilegedUnderprivilegedUnderprivileged


Last Login: 10/17/2011 1:25:04 PM
Posts: 66, Visits: 272
In my experience, yes the chemicals make for a far better finish, both aestehtically and durability.

Here is the process:

Scrape, sand brush and or blast all the loose rust.  Degrease; the marine clean POR sells is some seriously strong detergent that has the benefit of leaving a protective film on the metal.  The etching acid, disolves some of the rust and etches the good metal for a better paint bond. I have substituted ZEP Calcium, lime, rust remover found at Home Depot for their etcher; works nearly as well and is a lot cheaper.  Zep also makes some industrial degreaser thats almost as good as the marine clean.

You should do two coats; the coating goes a long way and it is not benenficial to lay on one thick coat, it will bubble as it dries and you will end up with hollow painted areas....plus you always miss some spots and will undoubtedly have some fish eye spots show up.

When this stuff gets on your skin it does not come off, use gloves and disposable brushes.  I would suggest you buy some thinner/remover as well; works as long as the paint is not dry.  Be careful of your hootus!! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18595

As far as POR vs Rustbullet, POR is not UV stable and requires work to top coat after its dry.  Rustbullet is UV stable and is easy to paint over.

It is better to buy several small cans than one large one.  These coatings dry with the slightest exposure to air and even when well sealed the remaining coating will harden in the can....not to mention reopening a can of POR sometimes takes processes that will completely destroy the can.

Oh, lastly, these coatings are self leveling, if prepped properly you will swear that its a powdercoating and will be smooth shiny and as strong if not stronger than real powdercoating.

Post #69920
Posted 7/2/2008 6:13:45 PM


DH was once A mail order bride...............

DH was once A mail order bride...............


Last Login: 4/2/2020 12:14:35 PM
Posts: 2,529, Visits: 12,764
N8 I sandblasted frame then sprayed POR then painted frame with Dupont black frame paint all seems to be very durable.
Post #69926
Posted 7/14/2008 2:00:36 PM


Forum Guru

Forum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum Guru


Last Login: 11/8/2019 7:12:25 PM
Posts: 894, Visits: 624
 Here is a picture of the correct late 60's Barris Batmobile #1 beacon (the red unit). The amber unit is the modern version of the red unit. I just compared all my 3 units to some b&w 1966 Barris production photos.... the best confirmation is this red beacon has the correct lamp socket square black plug-in spade connector in the base (under dome near lip) and correct dome socket rivets on top to hold lamp socket, directly into dome (overhead metal bracket now holds socket on modern units). Riveted clamped lamp wire direct to dome side, too. Other older and newer MV units do not have that black connector....they have a round wire grommet instead. The (red beacon) round basic reflector is offset away from lamp.... the newer units (amber beacon) has a socket cut-out for tighter spin of "lightly rippled" reflector around lamp. The red has a little metal idle pulley......newer unit has plastic white (or sometimes black) slightly larger idle pulley. Smaller-thinner drive belts on older....longer-fatter drive belts on newer MV units. Double bend short reflector bracket for old...single bend tall for modern. Spun base on old..... pressed aluminum base on modern. The company started as Trippe in 1922. They produce automotive and theatrical lighting..... MV, as I recall, stands for Multiple Voltage. This model beacon is produced in most all DC and AC voltages for users. If you need any automotive emergency lighting or tear shaped lens, go to 'The Lighthouse'.......they have a warehouse in Los Angeles, San Diego and all over USA.   Here is a picture of the correct late 60's Barris Batmobile #1 beacon (the red unit). The amber unit is the modern version of the red unit. I just compared all my 3 units to some b&w 1966 Barris production photos.... the best confirmation is this red beacon has the correct lamp socket square black plug-in spade connector in the base (under dome near lip) and correct dome socket rivets on top to hold lamp socket, directly into dome (overhead metal bracket now holds socket on modern units). Riveted clamped lamp wire direct to dome side, too. Other older and newer MV units do not have that black connector....they have a round wire grommet instead. The (red beacon) round basic reflector is offset away from lamp.... the newer units (amber beacon) has a socket cut-out for tighter spin of "lightly rippled" reflector around lamp. The red has a little metal idle pulley......newer unit has plastic white (or sometimes black) slightly larger idle pulley. Smaller-thinner drive belts on older....longer-fatter drive belts on newer MV units. Double bend short reflector bracket for old...single bend tall for modern. Spun base on old..... pressed aluminum base on modern. The company started as Trippe in 1922. They produce automotive and theatrical lighting..... MV, as I recall, stands for Multiple Voltage. This model beacon is produced in most all DC and AC voltages for users. If you need any automotive emergency lighting or tear shaped lens, go to 'The Lighthouse'.......they have a warehouse in Los Angeles, San Diego and all over USA. 


www.StarCarCentral.com

www.Fireballrun.com

Post #70309
Posted 7/16/2008 4:07:16 PM


Forum Guru

Forum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum Guru


Last Login: 11/8/2019 7:12:25 PM
Posts: 894, Visits: 624
Hey Nitro and Kevin and Shaggy et al I want to thank you for the POR and undercoating tips, not there quite yet, but filed away for future use.  Good info!  ALso thanks Kevin for the cap info, any way to get those cheaper? Yikes!  I am watching ebay but if you have a contact or a source.


www.StarCarCentral.com

www.Fireballrun.com

Post #70352
Posted 9/6/2008 5:32:37 PM


Forum Guru

Forum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum Guru


Last Login: 11/8/2019 7:12:25 PM
Posts: 894, Visits: 624
http://starcarcentral.wordpress.com/2008/09/

Heres a link to new KITT night rider series car, that showed up with the Star Car Association at the Pepsi 500.  As for the Keaton car, collecting metal, bits and pieces

son went to expensive college.....


www.StarCarCentral.com

www.Fireballrun.com

Post #71776
Posted 12/15/2008 2:23:22 PM


Forum Guru

Forum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum GuruForum Guru


Last Login: 11/8/2019 7:12:25 PM
Posts: 894, Visits: 624
Hey guys, long time and all that.

I am still collecting metal, and building the dash in my garage, but KITT showed up and as i am going to use my knight rider car as a daily driver, it went to the front of the line.

I should have more time to post stuff and photos during the holidays of my progress.

Merry christmas!


www.StarCarCentral.com

www.Fireballrun.com

Post #72818
« Prev Topic | Next Topic »

«««6970717273»»»

Reading This Topic Expand / Collapse
Active Users: 2 (2 guests, 0 members, 0 anonymous members)
No members currently viewing this topic.

Permissions Expand / Collapse

All times are GMT -5:00, Time now is 8:08pm


Execution: 0.376. 8 queries. Compression Disabled.

Batman (1989 Version)

CLTC Club Shirts




1989 Batmobile Kit 1989 Batmobile Kits
1989 Batmobile Builders Batmobile Kit
Batmobile Kits 1989 Batmobile Builder





Batman and all related characters and elements are trademarks of and DC Comics and WB.
Use of anything related to "Batman" on this site is not to infringe upon the copyrights of DC Comics or WB.
The purpose of chickslovethecar.com is to foster positive discussion about one of the greatest vehicles of all time.
This site does not sell or build any related cars or kits. © 2004-2012 chickslovethecar.com "Chicks Love The Car"
Images linked courtey of cltc.co.

You can contact us by clicking here.