BATMAN v SUPERMAN Dawn of Justice BATMOBILE
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Posted 8/14/2016 6:31:23 AM


Supreme Being

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By integrating the existing frame I can still use the Dodge truck VIN number.
Yep, that's a bid advantage.
Post #150187
Posted 8/14/2016 4:10:20 PM


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I was thinking about your donor and I think you made a good choice. It's better to consider frame length and not worry about wheelbase.

Wheelbase is the distance between the front and back axle center. Not so important because to get the DOJ batmobile look right I think you need to move the rear axle to the very back of the rail.... or even past the rail!

On the real one the back axle is floating and independent. Basically a Baja 1000 car. The tricks will be how you do your suspension in the back and how you get the power from the motor to the wheels.
Post #150190
Posted 8/14/2016 4:13:47 PM


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Folk's this will be very interesting.

I think there are a couple of different ways you can approach this DOJ build. The first one is to try and build it like the '89 car is built. Basically, get a donor vehicle and put the DOJ skin over it. There are several pluses and minuses to this approach. Some of the pluses include: Titled vehicle, Many needed parts supplied by the donor, solid frame, and a basic starting place. Some concerns would be: Suspension and wheel placement, Moving the engine, how to route power to the rear wheels, ride height.

The second way would be to build a frame from scratch, similar to how the movie car was done. Disadvantages of this method include cost (a big one), time, skill needed. Advantages are easier to get the lines of the original because placement of suspension and drivetrain are factored into the frame from the start.

I believe Vertigo's plan is to do a form of the first approach. This was originally my plan as well, but now I am planning on trying the second approach. It will be very interesting and educational to see how these two different approaches develop. I have a feeling aspects of our two builds will be very helpful to each other.

sly
Post #150191
Posted 8/14/2016 7:53:31 PM
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WHO ARE THE MOST SKEWED?
So, who are these bold and visionary car and other vehicle designers that exhibit the most creative freedom, and where is their work found? You need only go as far as your local Walmart's toy department or any where else toys are sold. There you will find many bold and creatively skewed toy vehicles from Batman, Star Wars, and every other popular comic book and popular science fiction/action movie and cartoon. Along side these vehicles are usually related guns and gadgets. And what about Barbie's Corvettes and dune buggies?
SKEWING AND MULTI SCALING ARE THE NORMALS IN THE TOY DEPARTMENT.
Skewing is rarely ever single scale rescaling, as it often involves simplification and multiple scales within the same toy vehicle. This ecclectic skewing often conveys other feelings in addition to those related to the original it was created from. Knowing what to look for in a skewed toy vehicle can be quite revealing to the unbound car and other vehicle builder and designer. About once a month I usually walk through Walmart's toy department to look at toy vehicles and guns. Rarely, do I not find inspiration and moments of insight. Usually in the original concept cars and guns that were created by some toy designer, not in response to Batman or any other similar driving media, but rather by an unrestrained creative designer to make a toy, that he hopes will bring excitement to the children who will play with it. vertigo
Post #150194
Posted 8/15/2016 10:01:26 AM
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bloody hell V man u building 2 batcars lol mad man... the back wheel they cut the tred off the tire i see it other day on youtube
Post #150197
Posted 8/15/2016 12:47:50 PM


Supreme Being

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WHO ARE THE MOST SKEWED?
Oh, I'm skewed baby...... I'm way skewed!

bloody hell V man u building 2 batcars lol mad man
That's what I told him

the back wheel they cut the tred off the tire i see it other day on youtube
Yes. We have found those tires but they are crazy expensive and have a lot of other issues that need to be solved, tread being the least of the problems.
Post #150198
Posted 8/15/2016 5:05:28 PM
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“I think there are a couple of different ways you can approach this
DOJ build. The first one is to try and build it like the '89 car is
built. Basically, get a donor vehicle and put the DOJ skin over it.
There are several pluses and minuses to this approach. Some of the
pluses include: Titled vehicle, Many needed parts supplied by the
donor, solid frame, and a basic starting place. Some concerns would
be: Suspension and wheel placement, Moving the engine, how to route
power to the rear wheels, ride height.” Sly

Indeed, I carefully chose the Dodge Ram 1500 as my starting point, but
not just for the title. However starting with a titled vehicle is a
real plus.

There is one plus, a very big plus, that you did not mention. By
starting with a Dodge or Ford, one has a huge advantage in that there
is a near endless multitude of high end, after-market, high
performance parts, and compete assembly units, available to meet the
demands of the truck racing and off road markets. The Dodge Ram 1500
is a very popular starting vehicle as is the equivalent in Ford.

Suspension: As I go along on this build if I find I’m not satisfied
with the front suspension I can buy a bolt in completely assembled
high performance unit and even have one custom built to my
specifications.

Wheel placement and rear axle: Not that much of a problem, as there
are companies that will shorten or lengthen axles. Not all that hard
to do yourself with customized axles available from companies like
DUTCHMAN that specialized in axle conversion parts. Many companies are
available that sell all kinds of rear suspension kits such as 4-link
to fully independent.

Moving the engine: There are companies on line that specialize in rear
mounting engines that either sell the conversion parts or complete
rear engine/transmission conversion kits. A horizontally opposed
engine is also a possibility that might be able to be installed in the
front.

Routing power to rear wheels: A series of heavy duty pillow blocks
with bearings in connection with several drive shafts and universal
joints can solve most problems. For the really difficult routes, an in
and out, gear box like the ones used on boats could solve most of
these.

Ride height: All kinds of ride height adjustment kits are available.
Post #150200
Posted 8/15/2016 5:15:55 PM
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“The second way would be to build a frame from scratch, similar to how
the movie car was done. Disadvantages of this method include cost (a
big one), time, skill needed. Advantages are easier to get the lines
of the original because placement of suspension and drivetrain are
factored into the frame from the start.” sly

This choice is tailor made for using the sectional slicing of a model
method. Well, really you need two models. Tubing car builders and
designers often sectional slice 1/25 scale models into ¼” – ½” slices.
One model side to side, and the other long ways. (1/4 inch – 6-1/4
inches) (½ inch = 12-1/2 inches. Most use ½” slicing. Then they take
the slices, lay them on their sides and draw around the inside and
outside of each slice to create dimensional drawings. Then they space
these slices appropriately apart. Then these drawings are used to draw
their tubing and frame plans. Many build the base frame with square
and rectangular tubing and the top with round tubing. Some will build
it all from round tubing alone. Note: Welding tube frames is a real
bear without an Auto-Twirler or similar device. Being able to rotate
the frame as you work allows you to weld better and weld in 1/10th of
the time. That is why I have one. You can buy a Woodard manual tubing
bender with a die set of your choice and stand for around a thousand.
I built a replica Navy Seals Fast Attack dune buggy and bent all the
tubing for 5 other builders. Not that hard once you learn to use
templates and a 360 degree protractor that matches your bending
radius.

A second method would be to use these drawings to find an existing
tube frame that fits into or is close to fitting into your drawing.
Then, by adding in and subtracting tubing the frame is conformed to
your drawing’s dimensions.


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AUTO-TWIRLER.jpg (12 views, 81.08 KB)
AUTO-TWIRLER-2.jpg (9 views, 70.50 KB)
AUTO-TWIRLER-3.jpg (11 views, 43.93 KB)
PICT0013-A.jpg (15 views, 385.46 KB)
PICT0024-A.jpg (10 views, 365.81 KB)
AUTO-TWIRLER-4.jpg (8 views, 563.18 KB)
Post #150207
Posted 8/15/2016 5:21:54 PM
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“I think there are a couple of different ways you can approach this
DOJ build. The first one is to try and build it like the '89 car is
built. Basically, get a donor vehicle and put the DOJ skin over it.
The second way would be to build a frame from scratch, similar to how
the movie car was done.

It will be very interesting and educational to see how these two
different approaches develop. I have a feeling aspects of our two
builds will be very helpful to each other.”

I agree.

For now, my clarity of vision is still in fluctuation and not
completely certain. I do know for certain that I will not be building
1:1 movie correct.

I do know for certain that I will not be building < 1:1 movie correct
in a reduced scale.

I do know for certain that I won’t be building a tube framed rendition.

I am a little sure that I won’t be building a performance vehicle.

I do know for certain that I will be building a skewed street legal
version. How skewed? For now, I am standing well outside the
protection of conformity to perfect reality, creatively looking
towards the possibilities and probabilities of practical abstraction,
while trying to stay unbound from the seductions of conventionality.
When I hear the sirens call for conformity, I try to imagine the
unrestrained creative toy designer making toys for the excitement of
children.

I also remember, “When a skewed builder says it should, ought, must,
and/or would be better, if something about his build were some other
way he has the ultimate will and power over his creative freedom and
to entertain the possible as well as the probable.” vertigo
Post #150211
Posted 8/16/2016 5:02:28 PM
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“A second method would be to use these drawings to find an existing
tube frame that fits into or is close to fitting into your drawings.
Then, by adding in and subtracting tubing the frame is conformed to
your drawing’s dimensions.” vertigo

The pictures of the Navy Seal dune buggy (sandrail) frame I built,
that I sent you pictures of, is an example of this method. I took my
drawings of the frame that I had made from several models of Navy Seal
dune buggies (sand rails). I then researched out who made the original
frames and collected some images. Then I searched the net for similar
frames and when I was satisfied that I had found the frame closest to
my drawings I bought the frame. It was already primed and painted red.
I then added and subtracted tubing as necessary to conform the frame
to my drawings. The red part in the pictures is the original frame
which was an 80% match to my drawings. The non-red tubing and metal is
what was added to conform the frame to my drawings.
By the way you don't need to build with Chrome-moly unless you are
planning to race the vehicle and weight reduction is part of the
winning option.
Chrome-moly can be fickle and difficult to weld without brittleness
problems. Most completed Chrome-moly frames are also stressed relieved
in high temp ovens. Regular steel tubing works fine and is much more
forgiving when welding and bends rather than breaks in a crash. I and
some of my friends have put thousands of rough off road miles on our
regular steel tubed vehicles and have bent a few tubes but never broke
any. vertigo


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