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 Posted 5/3/2019 6:41:52 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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THEMAN
"I know we're kinda spilling over eachother's threads, but things like these chassis dimensions will be helpful towards how I was intending to spec out vert's frame too... "
No problem, spill all you want.
"vert do you have the cab of your truck and all or did you get it as a rolling chassis?"
Bought the 2003 Dodge 3500 complete and drove it 150 miles to my house.
Ran like a champ with lots of power.
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| Posted 5/3/2019 7:10:32 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Looks like we are getting serious here.
Hard for me to tell.
I gave up on using mine and went back to old school model using methods.
Put in a few hours today studying and experimenting with scales and models as well today.
Not exactly sure yet what final build scale will be, but skewing modifications are
definitely in play for me at this time.
Attached a hand drawing of where I am at today.
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| Posted 5/3/2019 7:22:59 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Here are some photo-images of another model study I did when I was considering a narrow inline tandem design.
These "Epic Strike" Mattel models/toys were designed to be used with 6" 1/12th toy figures.
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| Posted 5/5/2019 2:40:15 PM |
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slysnake (5/3/2019)
So, just messing around and will wait for the donor, but what kind of ballpark do you think this is? This is the do3d model at .73%. I was at .88% with the present body.
If you can see where the dots are on the model and the distance of 49.299 between them listed on the right. The widest part of this body is then 87.5 inches at the tips of the jet intakes.
Something about this size I could cut in half down the middle and mill the full width of each area in only two sections. The old one I had to divide into four (and at one point six) sections to mill a full width of the body.
That puts the whole car at about 9'3" (111") wide at outside fender edges and the widest parts of tire contact patches at about 8'3" width... this will just barley roll onto the average rollback with a touch of tire riding the edge, so is probably very doable dimensions. What are those two points for the cockpit width if you take it to 72%, probably a tad under the 48" mark we were talking about earlier?
that's good news about lessening the slices, make for less work on the finishing sections for mold right?
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| Posted 5/5/2019 2:42:24 PM |
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vertigo (5/3/2019)
Here are some photo-images of another model study I did when I was considering a narrow inline tandem design.
These "Epic Strike" Mattel models/toys were designed to be used with 6" 1/12th toy figures.
I do not like that skinny skewing at all... if we used those dimensions you could definitely use the compact car parking spaces though.
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| Posted 5/5/2019 2:57:34 PM |
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vertigo (5/3/2019)
THEMAN
"Yes, but much of the design principles and scales will convert directly to your build too... even though the intention is rear mount engine in yours the chassis dimensions and suspension layout will be very similar."
Gave up using a rear mounted engine quite a while back.
Current plan is to use a deep mounted midline engine.
Aaah, didn't know that... this changes quite a bit of what I was thinking for your car considering the base platform.
That Hemi in truck form comes in around 34" tall, if you put the car intake and accessories up front it will take it down to about 31"... sly and I in the LS side are looking at about 27" height, so leaving it up front in stock location and keep the really low hoodline is easy enough... but this is one case where having an extra 4 inches isn't a good thing. 
Will definitely have to push your motor back into the cockpit as much as possible.
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| Posted 5/8/2019 9:30:30 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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Did a few model studies today.
Definitely have to say the Hot Wheels Elite 1/18th DOJ appears to be the most detailed model currently available for a Dawn of Justice build. When this model first came out it listed for 175.00. It is currently selling on Amazon/eBay for 70.oo.
Managed to put a few hours in today on measuring and laying out my frame modifications.
Coming along quite well.
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| Posted 5/9/2019 9:13:16 AM |
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it needs a paint job, but man you're right, it looks really good from the side shot... I may have to go for one of those. I was so hoping for a 1/6th from somewhere, but nothing yet, and frankly the hunk of $$ I see the other ones going for would seriously cut into my wheel budget on my drive-able version, so kinda glad the temptation isn't there. 
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| Posted 5/9/2019 11:52:31 AM |
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| Vert, you sticking with the rear axle you have? It's the same bolt pattern as the H2 I spec'ed for my build, but it is a tad narrower by about 2". So the same wheels sly is spec'ing will work on yours, but the whole rear track will be 1" less on each side. Not a big deal for the rear of the car, but you may want to think over the time&materials in welding up the 4-link attachments to that rear, compared to sourcing a used H2 rear around the $500 mark. Just food for thought.
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| Posted 5/9/2019 3:18:22 PM |
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Has NO LIFE!!
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THEMAN
"Vert, you sticking with the rear axle you have? It's the same bolt pattern as the H2 I spec'ed for my build, but it is a tad narrower by about 2". So the same wheels sly is spec'ing will work on yours, but the whole rear track will be 1" less on each side. Not a big deal for the rear of the car, but you may want to think over the time&materials in welding up the 4-link attachments to that rear, compared to sourcing a used H2 rear around the $500 mark. Just food for thought."
For now I am going to stick with donor axle and leaf springs. Plan to change them out in the future and go to a four link. Plan to work on everything I can do first. Currently focused on layout and modifications to frame.
Where are you going to get the H2 axle for your build. Will it require any modifications? How much does it weigh and cost to ship?
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