DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A TUMBLER OR ANOTHER BAT VEHICLE?
Batmobile Forum
 Batmobile Home          Batmobile Builders     Calendar     Who's On

Welcome Guest ( Login | Register )
        


«««1011121314»»»

DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A TUMBLER OR ANOTHER BAT... Expand / Collapse
Author
Message
Posted 12/29/2016 6:08:16 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
BAT VEHICLE BUILDER’s BLOCK
Part 5-B Negative Self Talk       “I’m just not creative!!!”
The secrets behind what we call creative art.

When we think of a creative artist we often imagine the artist
painting his masterpiece with nothing more than some brushes and a
palette of paints. Only one person in a million can paint high quality
works of art like this, if that many. These individuals are described
to possess near perfect internal-external spatial awareness with the
ability to execute translation into reality in a physical medium.
Even, most of the great masters used multiple drawings to shape their
works before actually painting their masterpieces.

Most artwork today starts with desire and many artists use tools and
photographs to get their perspectives correct. Many project their
photographs onto the canvas and trace lines, following the projected
image details. Others use vector programs like Adobe Illustrator.
Photoshop is often used to analyze color from photographs to mix
paints to get the right color balance. Sculptural artists frequently
use 3D computer programs for scanning and CNC multi-axis routers/mills
to create masters and the film industry has produced movie sets from
foam so massive that some have covered the area of a small city block.

Bat Vehicles are truly works of sculptural art that fall under the
category of realism. We often admire replica Bat Vehicles for their
closeness to the original. To be a successful Bat Vehicle builder
requires a burning desire to build a Bat Vehicle, the will to do the
prerequisite research, commitment to put in the time to acquire the
necessary skills, and the patience to solve a multitude of small
problems.

The ratio of creative thought to physical reality remains about the
same as the adage.
1% creative inspiration : 99% perspiration (study and physical work)   vertigo
Post #151880
Posted 1/12/2017 5:39:40 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I posted this here because it is relevant to those considering CNC milled foam and/or plastic printing methods.
I requested an estimate for a life sized car routed/milled in foam.

“I have a life size concept car file for 7.5' wide X 22' long X 4.5'
tall. My files are STL. I would like to have this routed/milled out in
foam. I am not asking for an exact estimate but rather a price range
for this type of work. I understand that there are many factors to
consider for a true estimate. A price range would tell me if I can
afford to have this work done and not waste your time on a detailed
estimate.”

Here is the reply I received:
“It really depends on the foam. High density urethane foam can cost
$50-70 per cubic ft. A car of this size with 10lb foam $10-22k. I like
to use 1lb EPS and coat it. Using EPS we can profile cut it with our
hot wire saving machine and assembly time. Generally a basic 5 sided
car cut in 1lb EPS $7-10k plus cost of foam.
Hope this helps.
Note 1-pound EPS sell for 4-5.00 per cubic foot
Post #151985
Posted 1/12/2017 5:56:30 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
CONTACTSCALE
contactscale.com

We specialize in cutting large, sometimes complicated foam objects
such as full-size cars. For a machining quotes or RFQs we will need a
3D file. Contactscale is a full scale 3D shop with 3 types of
services; cutting, molding and proof of concepts. We specialize in
cutting large, sometimes complicated foam objects such as full-size
cars.
Give us a call or email us with any questions about our services. 650-284-4055
Cutting and Machining Capablities:
26 ft x 12 ft x 6 ft tall
● Large parts
● CNC Hotwire 2 and 4 Axis
● CNC Router 3,4 and 5 Axis
Post #151991
Posted 1/14/2017 6:53:27 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
BAT VEHICLE BUILDER’s BLOCK
Part 6 Too Many Ideas but None of Them Working Problem

You have a ton of ideas but can't commit to any of them, and they all
seem to peter out. Now this is slightly harder. Even this problem can
take a few different forms — there are the ideas that you lose
interest in after a few sketches, and then there is the idea that you
thought was the flawless plan for the perfect building execution.
Starts great, falters in detailed planning, and then falls under its
own weight in reality.

The fact is that ideas are dime a dozen — but ideas that get your
creative juices flowing are a lot rarer. Oftentimes, the coolest or
most interesting ideas are the ones that peter out fastest, and the
dumbest ideas are the ones that just get your motor revving like crazy
and leave you spinning your wheels.

My own experience is that usually, you end up having to throw all
those ideas out. If they're not getting any traction, they're not
getting any traction. Save them in a suspense file and come back to
them a year or later, and maybe you'll suddenly know how to tackle
them. You'll have more experience and a different mindset then. It's
possible someone with more stubbornness could make one of those idea
work right away, but probably not — the reason you can't get anywhere
with any of them is because they're just not letting you express your
Bat Vehicle build the way you really want to, down in the murky
subconscious.

Usually when I'm faced with the "too many ideas, none of them works"
problem, I'm only a few days away from coming up with the idea that
does work. Your mind is working in overdrive, and it's close to
hitting the jackpot, and finally eureka.  vertigo
Post #152001
Posted 1/21/2017 6:06:40 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I put this here because welding will likely be an important part of any Bat Vehicle build.

I have a Lincoln Arc welder that I like to use when I am welding
something, such as my Batman Tumbler frame, and I want to have
absolute confidence in the weld integrity. With about 20-hours
practice most can be making strong welds in steel. Arc  welds are not
as pretty as Mig, but many welds made by those new to Mig I find
defective. Usually from using to small a unit, that produces too
little heat to get good penetration and fusion, in too thick a piece
of metal. Many of these small units can barely handle 1/8” steel. I
happened to see this reminder summary in an online fabrication article
and I like how it covered all the problems and basics with a minimal
amount of words.

Why Steel Welds Fail and Making Welding Repairs That Last
Making your arc welds permanent
A Reminder Summary of the Essential Basics for Arc Welding
By Grant Andrews

“Welding metal that is too thin to take manual arc welding.

Most failures can be attributed to:
•incorrect preparation
•welding dirty, oily or painted surfaces
•using the wrong electrode
•incorrect welding technique

Preparation
For strength, the weld metal must penetrate the full thickness of the
parent metal. Incomplete weld metal penetration may not be apparent
until after the repair fails.

The main causes of poor penetration are:
•insufficient gap between the two pieces of steel being repaired
 (results in weld metal only being deposited on the surface.)
•using an electrode with too low an amperage
•using an electrode that is too large for the joint
•holding the electrode at an incorrect angle
As a general rule, if the parts being repaired are less than three
millimetres thick, leaving a space between the two parts is essential.
The gap should be about the thickness of the metal.
If the metal is more than three millimetres thick, bevel both edges to
an angle of 45º.

Intrusions
The weld is weakened in proportion to the amount of impurities
present. Impurities can take the form of paint, metal primer, zinc or
zinc oxide from galvanising or galvanic coatings applied to prevent
corrosion, rust, oils, dirt or slag from a previous run of weld metal.
It takes only a few minutes to clean the surfaces adequately with a
solvent or remove rust with a wire brush, steel wool or emery paper.
If the rust is severe, grinding the surface with an angle grinder will
remove the problem quickly. Grease can be removed with suitable
non-greasy solvents such as turpentine and the surface wiped clean and
dry.



Dampness and moisture
Electrodes should be stored in a dry place and should be handled
carefully to avoid damage to their flux coating. Arc welding
electrodes consist of a metal core surrounded by a coating of flux. If
the coating is damaged, striking the arc can be difficult or
impossible, If the electrodes are damp, dry them out for about an hour
in an oven set on 110 - 120°C. Using damp electrodes can result in a
fiery arc, with the weld metal laid down spasmodically and scattered,
rather than deposited in a neat row.

Trapped water in materials to be welded. Steam, generated by the heat,
becomes trapped as the weld metal is deposited and small bubbles of
water vapor appear in the molten metal, weakening the joint and
possibly allowing corrosion.

Electrodes
Using the correct electrode is essential for all welding tasks.
General purpose electrodes, those rated E6012 or E6013, are useful for
welding mild steels in most situations. However, some electrodes are
designed for overhead use, others for downward welding. Even with
general purpose electrodes, using an electrode, that is intended for
downward welding, in an overhead position can result in poor
deposition of weld metal and a weld that is liable to break.

Electric current
Poor contact between the earthing clamp and the work results in
insufficient current available to melt and carry the weld metal.
The arc will be intermittent, with the weld metal laid down in small
blobs instead of a neat straight row. The earthing clamp can look
tight, but if there is any grit under it, poor electrical contact will
be prevented. Clean the metal to remove all the grime, grit and other
insulating matter that could prevent proper electrical contact. The
smaller welders found in home workshops usually have finger-grip
heads, but with use, these can work loose. Always check that they are
secured tight before welding.
Amperage
Set the welder on an amperage that is appropriate to the electrode and
the joint to be welded.
Electrode packets usually have the recommended amperage printed on
them. These will give a high and a low reading, the low end of the
scale being for thin material, the higher setting for thicker metal.
Too little current will be evident by frequent 'sticking' of the
electrode to the metal.
Too long an arc, i.e. the electrode is held too far from the surface,
will produce a lot of heat, which can burn through the metal,
particularly on thinner sections.
The long arc is characterized by excess splatter and a louder
crackling than is usually produced by an arc of the correct length. An
arc that is too short will become obvious when the tip of the
electrode becomes buried in the molten weld metal and slag.

Rate of travel
The speed at which the weld metal is deposited determines its quality.
If the rate of travel is too fast, the weld metal will be thin and
spindly, and perhaps intermittent.
If the rate of travel is too slow, the pool of weld metal will deposit
an excess of weld metal.

Undercutting
The presence of undercutting weakens the weld. The bead of weld metal
should slightly bulge above the level of the base metal.
When undercutting has occurred, the edge of the bead of weld metal
will be slightly below the level of the base metal and will appear to
have cut into it.
The causes of undercutting are:
•high amperage
•too long an are (causing too much heat) the electrode at an incorrect angle
•too large an electrode for the base metal
•incorrect deposition of weld metal, especially on wider cracks or joins
•excessive weaving of the electrode (though some weaving is desirable
for a good weld, too much is a bad thing)

Distortion
Because of the high temperatures involved in welding, the base steel
will expand and can easily twist out of shape. Such distortion not
only leads to unsightly welds, but the weld metal can crack as
everything cools or the base metal can remain permanently distorted
after cooling.
If the crack or join to be welded is long, deposit the weld metal in
short bursts (about 25-50 mm at a time worked in different directions
and, where possible, from different sides) rather than a continuous
run. This will help to minimise overheating and consequent buckling.

Lack of fusion
Lack of fusion occurs when the weld metal fails to fuse, or adhere, to
the base metal and, in accordance with Murphy's Law, usually happens
at the worst possible time. It is caused by insufficient attention
being taken to direct the weld metal or welding electrode, towards the
base metal. This can be overcome by using the correct rate of travel,
the correct amperage, correct electrode, and the operator keeping his
or her mind on the job!

Cracking
Cracks in welds have several possible causes, such as:
•clamping the base metal too tightly using damp electrodes
•using too high a current slag entrapment
•using too large an electrode for the metal being repaired
•too slow a rate of travel
Even tack welds can crack if they are too small. Tack welds about 10
mm long are ideal.
Another common cause of cracked welds is cooling the metal too quickly
after the welding has been completed. It is always tempting to use
cold water to cool the steel down, but the weld should be allowed to
cool slowly to avoid distortion and cracking.

Finishing off
The completed weld should be at least as strong as the original metal
and should be finished off to a professional appearance to minimize
any possibility of corrosion or cracking. Grind off the excess weld
metal, apply a metal primer to prevent rust forming and paint the
surface.”
Post #152042
Posted 1/22/2017 6:12:30 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Finished welding my Tumbler arm frames except for cutting and welding 3/8 " steel arm bottom plates. Started using proxy tires to figure out axle lengths, pitches, tire arcs, etc., etc.. vertigo

  Post Attachments 
PICT0005.JPG (5 views, 379.87 KB)
PICT0008.JPG (1 view, 380.90 KB)
PICT0011.JPG (2 views, 355.75 KB)
PICT0012.JPG (3 views, 265.58 KB)
PICT0014.JPG (4 views, 353.18 KB)
Post #152044
Posted 1/30/2017 5:26:53 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
BAT VEHICLE BUILDER’s BLOCK
Part 7
You have a plan but you can't get through a particular part of it.

Some builders work really well with a plan and some don't. For some, especially the
skewed builders, the point of having a plan is to have a road to drive
off from, a straight line to deviate from as far as possible. Plus, every
project is different — even if you're a plan fan usually, there's
always the possibility that you will, at some time, need to grope in
the dark for a particular build aspect.

Actually, there are two different reasons you could be getting stuck:

 1) Your plan has a major flaw and you just won't admit it. You can't
get from A to C, because B makes no sense. The parts and/or assembly
won't do the things that B requires them to do. Or the logic or
character of the build just won't work with B. If this is the case,
you already know it, and it's just a matter of attacking your plan
with a hacksaw.

 2) Your plan is basically fine, but there's a part that you can't get
past. Because it's boring, or because you just can't quite see how to
get from one construction peak to the next. You have two cool moments,
and you can't figure out how to get from one cool build aspect to the
other.

How Do You Bridge The Gap Between Two Cool Aspects In Your Bat Vehicle Build??

In either case, there's nothing wrong with taking a slight detour, or
going off on a tangent, and seeing what happens unless you are bound
too tightly in an exacting 1:1 movie correct build.  Maybe you'll find
a cooler transition between those two build aspects and/or maybe
you'll figure out where your build really needs to go next. And most
likely, there's something that needs to happen with your construction
characteristics at this point in the build, and you haven't hit on it
yet. vertigo
Post #152079
Posted 2/2/2017 7:36:59 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I put a copy of this post here because this method of axle alignment might be useful to someone with a similar build problem.
Fitting and aligning the two front axles accurately can be quite a trick, given the weight and awkwardness in its distribution. So I have decided to cut the 3" DOM heavy wall tubing into two parts from each Tumbler arm axle.
The two bevel cut 3" DOM tubing pieces are half of each axle from each side. These two pieces will be slipped over each end of a straight 2" pipe (alignment jig). This assembly will be slipped though a 3" hole at the end of each Tumbler arm. This will keep the two 3" DOM axle parts in alignment while they are welded securely in place. Once the welding is finished the pipe will be removed and the two 1' long 2" diameter DOM heavy wall tubes will be slipped into the already welded axle halves. Then the other halves of the axles with end assemblies will be slipped over the 6-inches of protruding tubes. This way I can rotate and/or shorten the axle assemblies as I will. Once I am satisfied with length and rotational aspects I will deep weld the two axle pieces together. I machined the 45 degree ends for welds in preparation for welding. vertigo
Post #152102
Posted 2/3/2017 5:34:00 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I put a copy of this post here because this method of axle alignment might be useful to someone with a similar build problem.
Fitting and aligning the two front axles accurately can be quite a trick, given the weight and awkwardness in its distribution. So I have decided to cut the 3" DOM heavy wall tubing into two parts from each Tumbler arm axle.
The two bevel cut 3" DOM tubing pieces are half of each axle from each side.

Today I cut the holes at the end of each Tumbler arm and assembled the inner and outer first half of each axle.
Next step will be to cut an alignment pipe and since the pipe's inside diameter is a little oversize I will use metal tape to enlarge the inner tubes to enable a tight mating. vertigo


  Post Attachments 
PICT0001.JPG (2 views, 201.21 KB)
PICT0008.JPG (1 view, 224.79 KB)
PICT0009.JPG (2 views, 251.38 KB)
Post #152110
Posted 2/4/2017 6:39:25 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I put a copy of this post here because this method of axle alignment might be useful to someone with a similar build problem.
Fitting and aligning the two front axles accurately can be quite a trick, given the weight and awkwardness in its distribution. These two pieces will be slipped over each end of a straight 2" pipe (alignment jig). This assembly will be slipped though a 3" hole at the end of each Tumbler arm. This will keep the two 3" DOM axle parts in alignment while they are welded securely in place.

What I thought would be 2-hors work turned into 6-hours. Before starting I re-leveled my Tumbler frame. Ended up using a 2" pipe and as we know 2" size pipe means it has an inside diameter of 2". That is unless it is heavy duty fence pipe which has 2-1/8 inside diameter. So, I had to shim the 2" diameter inside DOM tubing with metal tape to bring it up to 2-1/8" so as to have a tight fit into my 2-1/8" inside diameter pipe. Then I used a 2 x 2" 1/4" wall square tube to clamp both Tumbler arms in unison and shimmed both to level. Next step will be welding.
vertigo


  Post Attachments 
PICT0001.JPG (2 views, 344.96 KB)
PICT0006.JPG (1 view, 281.94 KB)
PICT0007.JPG (3 views, 300.40 KB)
PICT0009.JPG (2 views, 321.32 KB)
Post #152116
« Prev Topic | Next Topic »

«««1011121314»»»

Reading This Topic Expand / Collapse
Active Users: 0 (0 guests, 0 members, 0 anonymous members)
No members currently viewing this topic.

Permissions Expand / Collapse

All times are GMT -5:00, Time now is 2:01am


Execution: 2.281. 21 queries. Compression Disabled.

Batman (1989 Version)

CLTC Club Shirts




1989 Batmobile Kit 1989 Batmobile Kits
1989 Batmobile Builders Batmobile Kit
Batmobile Kits 1989 Batmobile Builder





Batman and all related characters and elements are trademarks of and DC Comics and WB.
Use of anything related to "Batman" on this site is not to infringe upon the copyrights of DC Comics or WB.
The purpose of chickslovethecar.com is to foster positive discussion about one of the greatest vehicles of all time.
This site does not sell or build any related cars or kits. © 2004-2012 chickslovethecar.com "Chicks Love The Car"
Images linked courtey of cltc.co.

You can contact us by clicking here.