UNIVERSAL BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING, AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
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UNIVERSAL BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING,... Expand / Collapse
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Posted 1/11/2019 5:20:16 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
Posts: 2,383, Visits: 3,385
Here is a CNC test to measure accuracy and repeatability of factory / homemade
new and used CNC machines.

CNC Accuracy
How to run a CNC through its paces to check on the accuracy and repeatability of its cuts and controls.

Test with calipers:
1. Cut a 6" circle, measure the radius in each orientation (x and y).

2. Cut a 6" square - inspect 'sharpness' of corners. measure diagonals and lengths.

4. Cut some 6" Diamonds and diagonals. Doing a diamond is a good idea as it checks for any issues with axis "deviations". Sometimes called an axis harmonics test.

3. Set up a dial indicator such that the axis can be jogged back and forth 1/2" about start position to look for slop/backlash.

Be mindful of the difference between accuracy and repeatability. They are very different things. Six inch squares are really good since you can use a standard digital caliper to measure.
The back to back rectangles is a great test. The larger the rectangle the more easily it is to determine if there is not an exact match.


Post #161560
Posted 3/10/2019 6:47:54 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here because of the relevancy to plastics and resin/hardeners in bat vehicle buildings.
Today I,
Placed drill through five outer hub holes and drilled through plastic steering wheel and steel backing plate.
Used black silicone gasket maker and metal tape to seal all remaining holes and seams.
Steering wheel is now ready for an internal resin pour pending an interaction test between the mixed resin/hardener and the steering wheel plastic.

Interaction tests between mixed resin/hardeners and plastic materials is an important test that to ignore is at your own peril.

If the fiberglass resin/hardener I have on hand dissolves the test spot on the steering wheel plastic I will have to find another product.


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Post #162802
Posted 3/12/2019 7:51:31 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
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Here is some information pouring epoxy/catalyst to fill voids. Appears it would also be relevant to fiberglass resin/catalyst pours.
epoxyworks.com to view complete information
Controlling Exotherm
by Mike Barnard
Occasionally customers are interested in filling a void by pouring a pouring large mass of epoxy all at once. This can be very dangerous because it will generate a lot of heat, and can lead to poor results because of the snowball effect mentioned earlier. Some faster epoxy systems, blended in a mass large enough, can reach temperatures over 400°F: hot enough to melt or at least soften plastic. This level of heat could also damage whatever the epoxy is poured into. High temperature can also result in severe cracking throughout the thickness of cured epoxy; so much so that if the epoxy were not supported, it could fall away. Shrinkage can introduce significant stresses into the structure the epoxy is attached to. Customers casting large epoxy sections into boat bilges have reported hearing loud snapping or cracking sounds after the epoxy cured.
Pouring a large mass of epoxy is a very difficult to do safely and effectively. Temperature, volume of epoxy, depth of the epoxy, and amount of heat sink in contact with the epoxy are all major variables in this application.
Proven methods for controlling exotherm:
If you do want to pour or cast a large volume of epoxy, here are several proven methods for minimizing heat buildup which we’ve developed over the years.
Pour the epoxy in timed, multiple batches.
Timing is important when doing multiple pours. Ideally, you want to wait for mild exotherm to peak and begin falling before mixing a new batch and pouring. Waiting too long could cause an insufficient bond between the two pours. Not waiting long enough can cause too much heat to build and cracks to propagate.
Choose 209 Extra Slow Hardener or G/flex
Slower cure allows a deeper pour before too much heat buildup occurs. For this reason, we recommend to use our slowest systems when casting larger amounts of epoxy: 105 Resin with 209 Extra Slow Hardener, or G/flex.
Work at cooler temperatures.
Cooler shop temperatures and cooling the epoxy itself will both work to your advantage in slowing cure and controlling epoxy’s exothermic reaction. A deeper pour can be accomplished with less heat buildup by starting with cooled epoxy and a cool substrate until the epoxy initially cures to a soft solid. Then you could expose it to room temp or higher to complete the cure.
Use heat sinks.
A heat sink is any object that can absorb lot of heat. If you are applying the epoxy into or over a heavy metal object, it will absorb much more heat than a lower-density object.
High-density fillers can also act as a heat sink, reducing exotherm by absorbing more heat than a low-density filler, and taking up more volume. This leaves less room for mixed resin and hardener, reducing the resulting heat reaction.
If the wrong epoxy/filler combination is used for a certain cure temperature, the epoxy may generate enough heat to smolder and burn. Adding more low-density filler will certainly reduce the amount of epoxy in a given volume, but the filler will act as an insulator instead of a heat sink. This effect is shown in the testing that we did.
Post #162812
Posted 3/12/2019 11:30:27 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to and/or building a Bat Vehicle.
hey sly,
Thanks for the information and supplier addresses. uscomposities.com
I tested some fiberglass/catalyst mixed on some of the steering wheel plastic. It did not dissolve it. No effects.
Mixed 4 ounces of fiberglass/catalyst and after 20 minutes the bottle reached a temperature too hot to hold with the hand. I estimate the plastic steering wheel internal voids would hold around a quart of resin.
I don't think the steering wheel plastic could stand up to the exothermic effects of using that much mixed resin/catalyst.
So, after studying the products available at the company you referred to me I ordered:
KIT: 635 Thin Epoxy System with 2:1 Ratio Slow Epoxy Hardener EPOX-6355563
This seems to be exactly what I was looking for. A slow reaction with more time for heat dissipation.
Pot Life: 35-40 minutes
Set Time: 5-6 hours
Drying Time: 24-28 hours
Post #162815
Posted 3/30/2019 6:39:36 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
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Decided to improve the work space I have been using for my DOJ/Justice League batmobile.
Put in fourteen hours on this work space upgrade.
Ran conduit to an extension breaker panel.
Wired up two 230V welding outlets, two quad 120V outlets, and three over the build 300W dropdown lights.
Still plan to paint the walls around the build with 2-3 coats of white paint.


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Post #162887
Posted 3/31/2019 4:48:06 PM


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Good idea. Is your new breaker box subbed from a main panel? If so, what size fuse on the main panel and what size wire is running to the sub?

I painted the walls of my basement a while back and went to Sherwin-Williams and got some concrete specific pain that worked really nicely. Can't tell you what it was though because they mix it for the purpose. The can says concrete and floor latex enamel.
Post #162889
Posted 3/31/2019 8:38:25 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
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Sly,

Is your new breaker box subbed from a main panel? YES 200amp main panel.

If so, what size fuse on the main panel and what size wire is running to the sub?
Used a 100amp breaker in main panel and used AWG 2 CU through 1-1/4" steel conduit to reach sub.

I painted the walls of my basement a while back and went to Sherwin-Williams and got some concrete specific pain that worked really nicely. Can't tell you what it was though because they mix it for the purpose. The can says concrete and floor latex enamel.

I use Drylock on concrete that has not previously been painted.
On previously painted surfaces I use Kiltz 2 latex.
Post #162891
Posted 4/6/2019 7:37:13 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

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Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to and/or building a Bat Vehicle.

Put in 6-hours on DOJ/Justice League donor vehicle preparation.
Removed exhaust system, then stripped passenger side frame rail of cables, wires, and tubes, code labeling those possibly relevant to reuse in the future construction of this build.

Tomorrow, I will complete my photo log on the driver's side rail and components before stripping the cables, wires, tubes, and components, labeling those possibly relevant to reuse in the future construction of this build.

Purpose of the photo-image log is to create a readily useful reference for returning components, wires, cables, and tubes to their points and connections of original origins. vertigo


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Post #162911
Posted 4/7/2019 6:13:24 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
Posts: 2,383, Visits: 3,385
Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to and/or building a Bat Vehicle.

Completed my photo log entries on the driver's side rail and components before starting to strip the cables, wires, tubes, and components, labeling those possibly relevant to reuse in the future construction of this build.

Purpose of the photo-image log is to create a readily useful reference for returning components, wires, cables, and tubes to their points and connections of original origins.

A photo-image log can save you many hours of headache and aggravation. A photo-image log together with a maintenance manual that covers the year of your donor will be worth the money in time saved.
A factory service manual that covers your donor is even better. Most can be found on Amazon/Ebay for a reasonable price.
A picture is worth a thousand words when you are trying to return components, wires, cables, tubes to their original points of connection and original origins as well as to understand complex spatial relationships.
It only takes a few minutes to record a few photo-images in your photo-image log. vertigo
vertigo


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Post #162913
Posted 4/8/2019 5:49:04 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 5/14/2019 10:49:23 PM
Posts: 2,383, Visits: 3,385
Placed a copy of this post here for anyone who might be planning to and/or building a Bat Vehicle.

Spent a few more hours on removing my donor vehicle's wiring harness.


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Post #162919
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