UNIVERSAL BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING, AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
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Posted 10/22/2014 12:55:00 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Hello Everyone,

Here is an excellent safety reminder for welding that I found on the internet.

Electric Shock from Electric Welders

"Shock to a welder might be assumed to be an acceptable practice due to the frequency of shocks to welders caused by improper personal protection and awareness. This belief can and has been a fatal assumption.

Many welders have suffered shocks and have only experienced an unpleasant tingle, but muscle spasms from even a mild shock may lead to a fall from a height or cause heart problems which are not readily noticeable or in certain circumstances cause death by electrocution.

The main causes for death or serious injury while welding are as follows:

Poorly maintained or badly connected equipment

Shock from the welding machine, incoming power, and the welding voltages.

Burn from flash at the welding machine incoming power cable and connections.

When performing manual arc welding there is a significant potential for the welder to receive a shock by simultaneously touching the electrode and work piece. This is due to the fact the electrode is changed while the electrode holder is electrically live. Fuses or earth leakage contact breakers do not protect the welder from such a hazard. The potential for electrical shock increases with high-frequency welding.

Shock can be avoided by using proper welding techniques and PPE. Training welders in the electrical hazards of welding and electric welding machines is a requirement of OSHA 1910. Training will greatly reduce the myth that being shocked is an acceptable practice and it will prevent injury or death.

Factors, Which Affect The Risk And Severity Of The Shock

Set voltage (OCV) of the welding machine;

Use of alternating or direct current (ac. is 2 to 3 times more dangerous than dc)

Moisture from rain, perspiration, or other source;

How well the welder is insulated from the electrode and the work piece;

Which parts of the body are in contact with the work and the electrode. Current flow between the left hand and the torso is the most dangerous.

Whether the welder has to work in physical contact with the work piece, particularly in a cramped (kneeling, sitting or lying) position such as inside vessels, pipes, and structural components. The electrically hazardous environment does not need to be a confined space.

Work Methods To Reduce The Risk Of Shock

When a workplace hazard assessment is conducted, ensure the risk of such electric shock is considered and appropriate measures are taken to minimize the risk.

The use of dry, hole free welding gloves on both hands while welding, particularly when changing electrodes should be compulsory and be a written safety policy.

Remove stub ends immediately after welding; do not leave an electrode holder with a stub end in it.

Turn off the power at end of each shift or when taking a break. Do not drag live leads to the work.

Leather covered cushions, leather aprons, leather jackets, heat-resisting blankets should be used to cover those parts of the work piece, which the welder may contact.

In hot conditions the risk of electrocution is increased because of clothing and equipment being soaked in perspiration. The risk is far worse in closed environments, such as tanks or vessels. Take frequent rest periods, during which time dry off equipment and clothing. Frequently change or alternate gloves and protective clothing to avoid perspiration accumulating. Ventilate or if possible air-condition the work air. Ventilation will help dry perspiration and cool the body. Cool the face with an air mask. If clothing (including gloves) becomes soaked with perspiration, it must be changed.

If it is not possible to keep it dry, the environment must be considered extremely dangerous. Either a voltage limited welding power source should be used, or a contactor switch on the torch should control the power.

Equipment Checks to Avoid Shock

Never attempt disconnecting of power receptacle when the main disconnect switch is on (energized).

Inspect the welding leads a prior to use to ensure that the insulation is not damaged and that the conductor is not exposed.

Ensure the welding leads are connected to the welding machine by a male plug and that the female portion of the connector is the energized part of the set.

Ensure the welding lead connection points on the welding machine are shielded to avoid accidental contact with exposed terminals.

Turn off welding machine in some cases until the welder is in position to make a weld. (In cases where the welder must lie/lean on a grounded surface to perform a welding task another person should start the machine when the welder is ready to strike an arc and begin the task.)

Eliminate the possibility of partially exposing a connection while pulling the leads; male and female connectors of welding leads may need to be taped or otherwise restrained form separating. Welding leads should not be tied in a knot.

Inspect rod holders for cracked or broken insulated covers, discard or repair insulation if found defective. " Mike Holt

Post #122867
Posted 10/27/2014 1:07:49 PM
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Hello Everyone,

This is the best rust prevention coating I have found .

POR-15 Information

POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is a high performance coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is non-porous and seals and protects many surfaces from water, chemicals, salt, and other corrosive contaminants. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is an effective anti-corrosive and rust preventive coating that offers superior chemical resistance due to its dense, cross-linked molecular composition and non-porous attributes.

The secret lies in POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating's curing process. Most paints dry through evaporation, but POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating dries faster when moisture is present. It has the opposite chemistry of ordinary paints. Now add to that POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating incredible hardness, toughness, and flexibility and you have a coating that is practically indestructible. POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is great for auto restoration, and protecting valuable equipment against rust and corrosion

Call on POR-15 to restore your car with a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel and prevents recurring rust by sealing your metal against exposure to moisture. The high-tech, high performance, rust-preventive coating designed for direct application on rusted metal surfaces not only covers the existing rust, it also prevents the reoccurrence of rust. Available in clear, gray, silver, and black, these non-porous POR-15 rust preventive paints are ideal for a quick improvement.

Post #122913
Posted 10/28/2014 12:20:51 PM
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Hello Everyone,

“Also as far as the welding goes I have seen it go both ways. I know stick welders that use one kind of rod for everything They also don't adjust the voltage settings either and when there are grounding issues a poor buzz box really starts to fall apart or worse yet using rods that are bad and have moisture build up or are old and brittle. Same goes for MIG welders not just settings but there are different wire types that get fed through the MIG. Personally I like the MIG better but it has to be a nice MIG welder and like you said it needs to have JUICE as well as a decent duty cycle. If those requirements are met then I would much rather go with a MIG if possible. My 2 cents worth.”  stevo

Your 2 cents are worth a lot. The main reason I recommend stick welding over MIG to those starting out to weld is price and individual ability. Stick welding is easily learned and takes only a few hours to start making good welds. I also know many general purpose stick welders that use only 1/8” and 3/32” 6011 rods but that is not so bad when you consider that almost all their welding is on mild steel and/or old steel with rusting/residual paint/oil, in all kinds of wind and weather. Hard to use MIG in wind above 5 mph on rusted damp steel.  You are very right about the moisture build up in the flux coating on rods or more accurately the hydrogen in the water that contribute to weak brittle welds prone to cracking). I usually buy my rods in vacuum sealed 5-lbs packages rather than keep a rod oven running. This way I just open a new package when I’m ready to weld something critical. Depending on the welding environment humidity level you have 4-8 hours to use the rods before the flux on them absorbs enough water/hydrogen to have much effect.  Stick welding is dirty, cheap, and effective. Stick welding’s main weakness is that on material below 1/8th inch thick, most have a hard time welding with stick.  Another reason I have used stick on my builds is to show new builders, for whom money is usually short, that they don’t have to have a 2,500.oo MIG before they can start to weld on their builds. I want them to see that they can achieve satisfactory welds with even a used 150-200.oo stick welder. Not disrespecting the MIG. I have a very nice Miller 252 with all the bells and whistles that I use a lot, mostly on 1/4 inch or less material, but I have welded ½ inch thick and more with it. It is a dream to run on 3/16” and less sheet metal, leaving no slag or inclusions. Metal has to be well prepared and a final cleaning with acetone for best welds. I agree that MIG is theoretically superior but only when done by a knowledgeable and well-practiced welder. vertigo               

Post #122924
Posted 10/29/2014 9:55:59 AM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Hello Everyone,

This is a good overview with relevancy to every Bat Vehicle build.

When I think of the Tumbler I consider it in many ways but mostly from the mechanical and sculptural perspectives. While searching for Tumbler information on line I found a really good article in Sculpture Magazine: January 1998 Vol. 17 No.1 titled:  25 Years: The Evolution of Sculpture Tools by John de Marchi

1.    The Evolution of Sculpture Tools - Sculpture.org

www.sculpture.org/documents/scmag98/sm-tools.shtml

o    Cached

o    Similar

... tools and methods for sculpture can have a dramatic effect on the way artists ...
proficient with hand tools, and the decline in the average quality of such tools.

This overview article covers 25-years of technology, tools, materials, and process advances that are relevant to all sculptural media including metal and fiberglass.

(1) The technology revolution, in particular, computers and micro-electronics;

(2) The decline in the use of hand tools and conversely, a greater reliance on power tools;

(3) Access to a tremendous range of materials and processes; and

(4) The issue and practice of safety, both personal and industrial.

Post #122935
Posted 11/18/2015 6:53:22 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Hello Everyone,
Finally found something that might be of benefit to those new to fiberglass and composites and/or having some problems/difficulties with turning their composites dreams into competently executed realities. Learning to use fiberglass and other composites from internet videos alone is almost impossible. This is one area of learning that is easiest to learn from books with lots of detailed pictures, reinforced with videos, and only truly mastered with lots of hands on practice. I found three books written by John Wanberg and titled COMPOSITE MATERIALS Fabrication Handbook #1, #2, and #3 Composite Garage Series. These books are very detailed and extremely well written and illustrated. The information in these books is very to the point without the clutter of any BS. I have to say they are the best I have seen for someone looking for the shortest way to gain general knowledge and a fast transition into practical application. vertigo
Post #149147
Posted 1/31/2016 7:04:58 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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The method of planning and organizing my Tumbler build has evolved
over the past few months. I gave up the build sheet method (too
limited and restrictive in size, overview, and portability) and now
use 3 X 5 inch build cards and several cork pinning boards. This has
allowed me to keep a stack of build cards in my pocket on the go
(portability) at the ready to record fleeting moments of inspiration
and insightful strategic planning no matter where I am at the time. In
reality this build card method has worked so well for me on the
Tumbler that I now use similar project card setups for many of my
other projects. Another benefit from using 3 X 5 cards on cork pin
boards is that I can readily view a wider breath of the project any
time I want to see a bigger organizational picture. It also translates
well to most projects and in particular excels for those with
complexity. Maybe someone out there will find this method useful as
well. A friend is using it to plan and organize the rewiring of his
house. I have attached copies of my Tumbler and Project cards for
those that might want to give it a try.


  Post Attachments 
TUMBLER PROJECT CARDS.pdf (11 views, 36.36 KB)
PROJECT CARDS.pdf (3 views, 35.62 KB)
Post #149331
Posted 3/12/2016 7:11:22 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Hello everyone,
Have spent about 40-hours, so far, on physically fabricating a water table for my CNC plasma machine. It is designed to handle 4' X 4' sheets of metal in one cutting and 4' X 8' sheets by indexing. I will be using it to cut out my Tumbler body panels and many other Tumbler parts. vertigo


  Post Attachments 
PICT0020.JPG (9 views, 258.11 KB)
PICT0005.JPG (7 views, 269.16 KB)
PICT0008.JPG (5 views, 269.49 KB)
PICT0011.JPG (4 views, 244.11 KB)
Post #149411
Posted 3/20/2016 6:09:03 PM
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Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
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Hello everyone,
Spent 10-hours more, cutting steel and welding, for a total of 50-hours on physically fabricating a water table for my CNC plasma machine. I will have about 100 hours total labor by the time I am finished but I expect to save a couple thousand or more in man hours on my Tumbler build. The table is designed to handle 4' X 4' sheets of metal in one cutting and 4' X 8' sheets by indexing. I will be using it to cut out my Tumbler body panels and many other Tumbler parts. Working on CAD files an hour, or two most evenings. vertigo



  Post Attachments 
PICT0002.JPG (3 views, 191.69 KB)
PICT0005.JPG (2 views, 208.02 KB)
PICT0010.JPG (3 views, 192.97 KB)
Post #149424
Posted 3/28/2016 6:56:35 PM
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Hello everyone,
Well, another 10-hours spent cutting and welding steel on my plasma water table. Completed the second water tank. The two plasma cut metal jet capture tanks hold approximately 50 gallons each. I figure about 30-hours more work left to finish the water table. The plasma system it will support is a TORCHMATE system with a 1-inch capacity Miller machine torch. Using TORCHMATE CAD/CAM software. vertigo
Post #149454
Posted 3/31/2016 6:23:08 PM
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I will probably use an acrylic and glass laminate for my Tumbler window panels. I added this article here because it appears to be relevant to acrylic window panels.
This is the best article I have found on cleaning and polishing
acrylic display cases. vertigo

How to Clean Acrylic Display Cases

by

Michael Azif

President of Sports Display Cases

www.sportsdisplaycases.com

Collectors are often familiar with using display cases to protect
their valuable memorabilia. They are used to prevent damage from
light, dust, and every day wear and tear.

What many do not realize that the case itself needs cleaned from time
to time to keep it looking new. Regular cleaning will prevent sticky
residue or dust from collecting on the surface of the case.

Avoid Harsh Chemicals When Cleaning Acrylic

Many of the leading sports display cases feature a durable acrylic
material that is long lasting. Material like this is less prone to
shattering. It also resists scratches, making it ideal for storing any
type of memorabilia.

A common complaint that many have is that over time, their acrylic
case turns yellow or cloudy. Some attribute this to natural aging, but
one reason for this is that they are cleaning it with the wrong type
of cleaner.

Most do not notice any issues during their first few weeks or months
when using products that contain ammonia or alcohol in them. The
discoloration may take time to appear but once it does it can be
difficult to remove.

Glass cleaners and other harsh chemicals used around the house are
often made for multi-purpose use. This means they are not formulated
for all surfaces, and may be abrasive or damaging to some.

Because they are safe enough for glass or shiny surfaces, many use it
on their acrylic sports display cases. What they do not realize is
that this is what causes eventual discoloration.

Another common mistake is to use cleaners marketed as natural or
organic. People often use these thinking that they are somehow safer
for surfaces but this is seldom the case.

There are always some exceptions, but many of these ‘safer’
alternatives can damage the surface. For this reason, avoid using them
if you want to avoid yellowing or cloudiness.

While there are specific products designed for cleaning acrylic, the
best method is to just use plain water. Some may recommend mild
detergent and water, but most may find that water alone will clean the
surface.

Remove Sticky Residue with Ease

Sticky residue is another common issue that may run into when cleaning
the displays. The residue accumulates and can be difficult to remove
as it may smear or streak during normal cleaning.

Residue may be due to adhesive left behind from stickers or labels.
Some prefer to scratch at the residue with their fingers or with a
blunt object to remove it. Never use sharp objects as they may cause
scratches in the acrylic.

Another top option for those trying to remove adhesive is to use a
strong solvent or remover. These products are harsh and will damage
the surface if they come in contact with most acrylics.

The best method for removing adhesive residue is to look for a product
rated for use with acrylics. These can remove the adhesives without
damaging the material or discoloring it.

If you do use a safe product, always follow the provided instructions
and work in small sections. After removing the residue, be sure to
clean the area with a separate cloth and a little water to remove any
traces of the product.

As a general rule, always try out a test spot on the material first
before using it on the entire case. The test spot can be a small
corner near the back or an edge facing a wall. This makes it easier to
check for any potential issues.

Clean With Care If You Want Cases to Last

The type of cloth you use for cleaning is just as important as the
product you use. The wrong type will leave tiny scratches or streaks
and smears behind, so choose them with care.

Abrasive materials, such as scouring pads or rough sponges, will cause
scuffs and scratches. Over time, this can lead to the display case
looking worn out and cloudy.

Disposable cloths are sometimes a go-to for many because they are easy
to use and inexpensive. The problem with these is that they contain
products that can leave the case discolored or cause streaking.

Some use the same rag or cloth that they use for cleaning other
surfaces. One problem with this is that there may be grit or residue
left behind from cleaning other surfaces.

Grit is a big concern when reusing the same cloth around the home.
Grit can come in the form of dirt, dust, or even small pieces of metal
or glass. The grit left behind can cause small scuffs or cracks along
the surface.

The best method for long lasting displays is to use a soft lint-free
cloth and only use it for that purpose. Many prefer to use them only
once and use a fresh one each time to avoid grit or residue.

To begin, take a dry lint-free cloth and use short, gentle strokes
across the surface. Avoid using too much pressure as it may cause
stress fractures even though the material is durable.

If the dry cloth does not remove all the residue or dust from the
surface, try adding a little water. Some opt for spray bottle and mist
the surface, while others prefer to wet the rag itself.

Either method will work, but it is a good idea to start with a small
amount of water and add more as needed. If memorabilia is still in the
case, avoid soaking it. Instead, use small amounts and clean in
sections.

Once the surface is clean, the final step is to dry it. As before,
always use a fresh lint-free cloth with slow, gentle strokes to avoid
streaks. If the rag gets too damp, use a fresh one to finish drying.
This prevents streaks and water spots.

Reduce the Appearance of Scratches

One thing to watch for with sports display cases are scratches on the
surface. They may form due to harsh products, or because of fall
damage.

Regardless of the cause, the best way to handle scratches is to treat
them immediately. To do this, you will need either a few products, or
a scratch treatment kit for acrylics.

When looking for a scratch removal or treatment product, be sure to
check that it is compatible with the material. Be sure to check the
label to verify that it is safe before you use it.

The steps involved in treating scratches will vary depending on the
severity of the scratches. Faint or light marks may need only a gentle
treatment and polishing while severe marks may need more in depth
care.

If you have a lot of memorabilia on display in your home you may want
to consider a scratch treatment kit. These are available as ready to
use kits, or purchased as separate items. The kits are often easier to
use as they include products for all types of scratches.

Being well prepared for any type of cleaning need will go a long way
toward keeping your case clear. With proper care, your sports display
cases will look new for years to come, making your memorabilia take
center stage. Michael Azif
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