UNIVERSAL BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING, AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
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UNIVERSAL BAT VEHICLE: WELDING, TOOL MAKING,... Expand / Collapse
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Posted 5/4/2017 6:23:46 PM
Supreme Being

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Placed a copy of this post here because it may be of use to others planning or building a Bat Vehicle.
Many axles that might be suitable and excellent for your Bat Vehicle build other than having the original drum brakes can be upgraded with disc brakes by purchasing a disc brake conversion kit like this one that I purchased for my GM 14 bolt axle.


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Post #156745
Posted 5/4/2017 6:33:32 PM
Supreme Being

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Placed a copy of this post here because it may be of use to others planning or building a Bat Vehicle.
Four link suspension kits with truss are available for the Dana 60, GM 14 bolt, and many other axles.


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Post #156747
Posted 5/5/2017 7:15:47 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
Placed a copy of this post here because it may be of use to others planning or building a Bat Vehicle.
A FEW OBSERVATIONS:
Four link suspension kits with truss are available for the Dana 60, GM 14 bolt, and many other axles.
The truss is 1/4 " thick steel, CNC cut, and then folded on a heavy duty hydraulic press. The manufacturer has not done any welding and has left that to the user. One thing about ordering one of these kits is that the tubing is available in 3, 4, or 5 foot lengths. My suggestion is to order the five foot lengths of tubing that cost around 50.oo more for the four 5-foot long tubes. Much better to have too much than too little and this is not something that you really want to have to splice for a mistake in measurement. These kits come standard with 9/16 inch grade 80 bolts but I suggest spending the extra 30.00 to get 3/4" grade 80 bolts. The hemi ends have 1" bolt holes but alignment bushings for 9/16, 5/8, and 3/4 inch are used for the desired bolt size. I'm using the 3/4 inch size.
I have a fancy Miller 252 MIG wire feed welder but decided to use an old school, used Lincoln stick ARC welder for this project to show other builders that they don't need a high dollar MIG to get started in Bat Vehicle building. Over the years I have found that more than 90% of new welders can make very strong welds with stick arc welders while very few beginners can effectively obtain strong welds with a MIG. So, I plan to continue this build with my stick are welder. vertigo
Post #156753
Posted 5/6/2017 7:59:15 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
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Placed a copy of this post here for others who may be planning a Bat Vehicle build.
Hemi-joint tubing bungs or threaded inserts can be difficult to weld without damaging the threads or Teflon bushings in the hemi-joint ends. Here are some tips from the manufacturer that put together my 4-link suspension kit.
*Tips to help prevent any seized or warped threads.
Correctly adjust welder settings. (Too much heat can warp the threads)
Not welding the tube adapter with the rod end threaded inside. (Getting the rod end too hot can damage the
liner)
Be careful to not keep too much heat on the tube adapter when welding inside of D.O.M.
If you weld with the hemi-joint end screwed in, coat the threads with anti-seize compound and weld in short
steps.
Professional welders of hemi-joint end threaded inserts use this method:
Weld in the insert without the hemi-joint end screwed in but not too hot.
After welds cool to the touch run a tap into the welded in adapter to clean up the threads. vertigo
Post #156755
Posted 5/6/2017 8:11:17 PM
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This is it, a pair of 1 1/4" Heat Treated Chromoly Rod Ends with all the trimmings! You get two 1 1/4" Heims with a 1" through bore, 4 zink plated misalignment spacers with 30 degrees of misalignment, a pair of zink plated jam nuts and the pair of weld in tube adapters to go with them. Not one is threaded LH and the other RH.
KIT INCLUDES: •2--1 1/4" Heat Treated Chromoly Heims
•2--1 1/4" Tube Adapters (1.5" Tube ID)
•2--1 1/4" Jam Nuts
•4--Misalignment Spacers (For 2 5/8" ID Brackets)



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Post #156757
Posted 5/10/2017 5:51:41 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
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I put a copy of this post here because someone planning or currently
building a Bat Vehicle might be able to benefit from this information.
There are several reasons the 1 piece rod ends have been the chosen
ones for so long. EXTREME STRENGTH, RELIABILITY, and SAFETY.
Mechanical Parameters for one piece1.25 Hemi.
This is a fully heat treated chromoly heim with a radial static
load(RSL) rating of 76,200 lbs. The 52100 bearing is heat treated
steel and hard chrome plated. The housing has a hard chrome finish.
The race is made from a teflon impregnated nylon injection molding.

This Heim has a 1.25" shaft with a 1" bore. The reason this company
uses the 1" bore instead of a 1.25" bore is strength. There is simply
more material on the 1" bore rod end and with a 3/4" bolt, after
missalignment that is what you would end up with anyway. If you need a
1.25" rod end, you don't want a small bolt becoming the weak point.
Sometimes smaller in the right places is better!

There are many benefits to a 1 piece Rod End that you should
understand. The first and foremost is simply Strength but the
simplicity of having less parts to come loose or break on the trail or
in competition comes in a close second. Anyone can buy the parts to
make a rod end. They're pretty easy to come by and you don't need a
very expensive special 800 ton press to manufacture them. If they
screw together. There are many cheap multi-piece hemi-joints on the
market. You get what you pay for. However, there are several reasons
the 1 piece rod ends have been the chosen ones for so long. EXTREME
STRENGTH, RELIABILITY, and SAFETY.


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Post #156770
Posted 5/11/2017 4:53:19 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
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I posted this here because it might be of some benefit to someone planning or starting to build a Bat Vehicle.
MILLER WELDING FORUM: Hemi-joint threaded insert welding.
Note: Suspension and steering related hemi-joints are considered to be
critical welded parts in that weld/part failures could result in
severe injury and death. If you don’t have absolute confidence in your
parts/materials, welding, and weld testing, knowledge and abilities,
take them to a professional welder.
Here is the related posting.
“Now some will say they got nice hot welds on the bungs they did with
MIG. I do not know what their experience is but having a MIG weld go
in "nice and hot" is certainly no guarantee if it is sound or not.
Only practicing and destruction testing on your welds will show if
welding and parameters were correct. So, I buy some extra bungs and
weld them as practice. Once welded, I cut long and sideways through
the center and examine for fusion. This is the only way I can know for
certain. Anytime I change any variable such as tubing material, even
the thickness, hemi-joint threaded insert material/dimensions, welding
wire/rod, welder settings, etc. I destruction test the new welded
combination. It is the only way I can be certain that my welding and
parameters were correct.”
On many welding websites and forums I have observed a lot of
reluctance to discuss the exact specifics, such as, actual welding
techniques and methods, as well as, any recommendations for specific
MIG wires and TIG filler rods. Which I can understand given the
inherent major responsibility and liability risks associated with
welding suspension and steering hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Post #156775
Posted 5/16/2017 8:12:09 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

“Man, that looks sweet! It would be cool if you did a video on the
weld. Is that too much to ask?”

Not really set up to do video but I plan to show in great detail how I
welded and tested by destruction my hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts
(bungs). This will be reflective of my unique and particular
hemi-joint threaded tubing insert (bung) welding experience and only
relevant to the variables related to my particular set of materials,
welding, and weld testing.  If the welding of my hemi-joint threaded
tubing inserts is successful, it is in no way a guarantee, that
someone else with a different set of materials, machines, welding
abilities, methods, and technique variables would achieve the same
results.
I currently have four extra hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts on
order to be used for welding and weld testing by destruction. I have
added  this from the Miller Welding forum

MILLER WELDING FORUM: Hemi-joint threaded insert welding.
Note: Suspension and steering related hemi-joints are considered to be
critical welded parts in that weld/part failures could result in
severe injury and death. If you don’t have absolute confidence in your
parts/materials, welding, and weld testing, knowledge and abilities,
take them to a professional welder.
Here is the related posting.
“Now some will say they got nice hot welds on the bungs they did with
MIG. I do not know what their experience is but having a MIG weld go
in "nice and hot" is certainly no guarantee if it is sound or not.
Only practicing and destruction testing on your welds will show if
welding and parameters were correct. So, I buy some extra bungs and
weld them as practice. Once welded, I cut long and sideways through
the center and examine for fusion. This is the only way I can know for
certain. Anytime I change any variable such as tubing material, even
the thickness, hemi-joint threaded insert material/dimensions, welding
wire/rod, welder settings, etc. I destruction test the new welded
combination. It is the only way I can be certain that my welding and
parameters were correct.”
Post #156792
Posted 5/17/2017 7:15:02 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Here from weldguru.com is the best and most comprehensive article I
have ever seen on the web for assessing and testing the quality of
welds. I put the table of contents below. Go to weldguru.com to read
the whole 2593 words on the subject. It is very informative and worth
reading for anyone interested in, and/or worried about the quality of
their welds.  vertigo

Guide to Weld Quality Testing
“To ensure the satisfactory performance of a welded structure, the
quality of the welds must be determined by adequate testing procedures.
Therefore, they are proof tested under conditions that are the same or
more severe than those encountered by the welded structures in the
field.”

This page contains visual inspection tips. The following pages contain
inspection methods for GMAW and physical weld testing.

Table of Contents

Visual Inspection Methods

Lack of Fusion

Undercutting

Incomplete Penetration

Slag Inclusions

Porosity

Gas Weld Testing

Physical Weld Tests

Acid Etch Test

Guided Bend Test

Free Bend Test

Back Bend Test

Nick Break Test

Tensile Strength Test

Hydrostatic Test

Magnetic Particle Test

X-Ray Testing

Gamma Ray Testing

Flourescent Penetrant Test

Hardness Tests

Magnaflux Tests

Electromagnetic Tests

Acoustic Emission Testing

Ferrite Testing
Post #156797
Posted 5/18/2017 7:54:02 PM
Supreme Being

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Last Login: Yesterday @ 9:32:18 PM
Posts: 1,567, Visits: 2,528
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

Here is one the most comprehensive websites I have found for MIG welding.

Weldguru.com

“Hi, my name is Garrett… (owner of weldguru.com)

For the past 5 years I’ve helped well over 10,000 beginners and
hobbyists get started learning to mig weld through my free training.
If you’d like to get started, Download my FREE beginner’s guide to MIG
welding.”
Post #156811
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