DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A TUMBLER OR ANOTHER BAT VEHICLE?
Batmobile Forum
 Batmobile Home          Batmobile Builders     Calendar     Who's On

Welcome Guest ( Login | Register )
        


«««1314151617»»»

DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A TUMBLER OR ANOTHER BAT... Expand / Collapse
Author
Message
Posted 4/7/2017 8:48:20 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I put a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit to others
considering/planning a Bat vehicle build.

Might have to weight the front end on this vehicle a little to move the center of balance forward a little, so as to off-set some of the stability and potentially lethal characteristic issues?

Rear-Engine, rear mounted engines, and rear-wheel-drive layout.
The disadvantage to a rear weight bias is that the car can become
unstable and tend to over-steer.

In turns, this tendency is much more pronounced, to the point that
even letting off the throttle slightly while turning can cause the
rear tires to suddenly lose grip, and the vehicle to slide rear-first
(see lift-off over-steer).

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

RR layout

“In automotive design, an RR, or Rear-engine, Rear-wheel-drive layout
places both the engine and drive wheels at the rear of the vehicle. In
contrast to the RMR layout, the center of mass of the engine is
between the rear axle and the rear bumper.

Most of the traits of the RR configuration are shared with the
mid-engine rear-wheel-drive, or MR. Placing the engine near the driven
rear wheels allows for a physically smaller, lighter, less complex,
and more efficient drivetrain, since there is no need for a
driveshaft, and the differential can be integrated with the
transmission, commonly referred to as a transaxle. The front-engine
front-wheel-drive layout also has this advantage.

Since the engine is typically the heaviest component of the car,
putting it near the rear axle usually results in more weight over the
rear axle than the front, commonly referred to as a rear weight bias.
The farther back the engine, the greater the bias. Typical weight bias
for an FR (front engine, rear drive), is 55/45 front/rear; for MR,
45/55; for RR, 35/65. Rear weight bias reduces forward weight transfer
under braking, and increases rear weight transfer under acceleration.
The former means that traction is more evenly distributed among all
four wheels under braking, resulting in shorter stopping times and
distances. The latter means that the driven wheels have increased
traction when accelerating, allowing them to put more power on the
ground and accelerate faster.

The disadvantage to a rear weight bias is that the car can become
unstable and tend to oversteer when decelerating (whether braking or
lifting off the throttle). In turns, this tendency is much more
pronounced, to the point that even letting off the throttle slightly
while turning can cause the rear tires to suddenly lose grip, and the
vehicle to slide rear-first (see lift-off oversteer). When this
happens, rotational inertia dictates that the added weight away from
the axis of rotation (generally the steering wheels) will be more
likely to maintain the spin, especially under braking. This is an
inherent instability in the design, making it easier to induce and
more difficult to recover from a slide than in a less
rear-weight-biased vehicle. All cars, regardless of drivetrain layout,
obey the same laws of physics and can do this, but it is much easier
to do and harder to correct in MR and RR vehicles.

When not braking, the decreased weight over the front wheels means
less traction, resulting in the car having a tendency to understeer,
which is safer and more stable (further allowing a driver to get on
full throttle sooner) but is undesirable in cornering. To counteract
this, it is necessary to induce forward weight transfer to increase
front grip, but this significantly destabilizes the car and can be
hard to do properly, that is, without spinning. High-performance
driving necessitates inducing weight transfer, regardless of
drivetrain layout, but it is more important in MR and especially RR
layouts, and the greater effect from it is more difficult to handle.

In these respects, an RR can be considered to be an exaggeration of MR
- harder braking, faster and earlier acceleration, and increased
oversteer, but faster turning if it can be controlled.

In off road and low-traction situations, the RR layout has some
advantages compared to other 2WD layouts. The weight is biased towards
the driven wheels- as with FF vehicles. This both improves drive-wheel
traction and reduces the tendency for the undriven wheels to dig in.
In addition, the driving and steering requirements are split between
front and rear- as with FR vehicles- making it less likely for either
to lose traction. Many dune buggies successfully use a Volkswagen
beetle as the donor car for this reason. The relative simplicity and
light weight compared to 4WD can therefore sometimes outweigh the
disadvantage of only having two driven wheels.

Where RR differs from MR is in that the engine is located outside the
wheelbase. The major advantage of MR - low moment of inertia - is
negated somewhat (though still lower than FR), and there is more room
for passengers and cargo (though usually less than FR). Furthermore,
because both axles are on the same side of the engine, it is
technically more straightforward to drive all four wheels, than in a
mid-engine configuration (though there have been more high-performance
cars with the M4 layout than with R4). Finally, a rear-mounted engine
has empty air (often at a lower pressure) behind it when moving,
allowing more efficient cooling for air-cooled vehicles (more of which
have been RR than liquid-cooled, such as the Volkswagen Beetle, and
one of the few production air-cooled turbocharged cars, the Porsche
930).

For liquid-cooled vehicles, however, this layout presents a
disadvantage, since it requires either increased coolant piping from a
front-mounted radiator (meaning more weight and complexity), or
relocating the radiator(s) to the sides or rear, and adding air
ducting to compensate for the lower airflow at the rear of the car.

Due to the handling difficulty, the need for more space efficiency,
and the near ubiquitous use of liquid-cooled engines in modern cars,
most manufacturers have abandoned the RR layout. The major exception
is Porsche, who has developed the 911 for over 40 years and has taken
advantage of the benefits of RR while mitigating its drawbacks to
acceptable levels, lately with the help of electronic aids.
Post #154600
Posted 4/10/2017 6:03:47 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
This is an old post re-posted that is still relevant to the design,
planning, and building of Bat Vehicles.

TOP FIVE STRONGEST AND MOST RELIABLE AXLES

A listing I found in an article on off-road vehicle building

1. Full-floating Dana 135
The Dana 135 is found in some Ford F-550 medium-duty trucks and
motorhomes. It features a removable third member like a Toyota or Ford
9-inch. However, its size is more on par with an 18-wheeler rear axle.
The massive size and heavy-duty design make it undesirable for all but
the biggest-tired Jeep swaps.

2. Full-floating Dana 80
This is the step into medium-duty truck axles. The Dana 80 is more
axle than most people will ever need. There are plenty of ratios
available that range from 3.31:1 to 5.38:1 and a good number of
aftermarket differentials.

3. Full-floating Dana 70
The Dana 70 is another member of the cheap beef squad. However, there
are several versions making them more difficult to identify. Look for
the Dana 70U or 70HD. These feature desirable 1 1/2-inch, 35-spline
shafts. There are also plenty of ratios and a good number of
aftermarket differentials available for these versions of the 70 as
well. They are often found in 1-ton Dodge, Ford, and GM trucks, vans,
and even some tractors and heavy equipment.

4. Full-Floating GM 14-bolt
The 14-bolt is the king of cheap beef when running tires up to and
more than 44 inches tall. You can't deny the strength of the 10
1/2-inch ring gear, huge 30-spline pinion, and 1 1/2-inch, 30-spline
axleshafts. It also enjoys a decent number of aftermarket gear ratios
and differentials. The fact that it has a removable pinion support and
spanner adjustable backlash makes 14-bolt gear and differential swaps
relatively easy. It can be found in GM 3/4- and 1-ton trucks and vans
in a few different widths. It's often found in wrecking yards for less
than $200 because it's so common. Perhaps it’s only real weakness is
the thin tinfoil-like diff cover.

5. Full-floating 35-spline Dana 60
They enjoy plenty of aftermarket support because they use common Dana
60 gears and carriers. However, they're very uncommon, and you're not
likely to find one in a wrecking yard. Many 35-spline 60 rear axles
have been converted from 30-spline housings.
Post #154613
Posted 4/10/2017 6:17:18 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
This is an old post re-posted that is still relevant to the design,
planning, and building of Bat Vehicles.
Here is the original complete listing.

WEAKEST TO STRONGEST AXLES
A listing I found in an article on off-road vehicle building

23. Chevy 10-bolt
Much like the Dana 35, it has a very weak and flexible housing that
can lead to other problems. An abused Gov-loc is a death warrant for the 10-bolt rearend. It's not a swap-worthy, full-width axle for
Jeeps.

22. '06-and-earlier Wrangler Dana 44
The smallish axletubes (same as Dana 35) can flex and cause carrier
bearing and other failures if abused. It has lots of aftermarket
support but limited available ratios if you are using the stock
Rubicon differential.

21. GM 12-bolt
Similar to the GM 10-bolt. It has a flexible housing and weak tubes
for a full-width axle. It's not really a good 4x4 axle worth swapping
into a Jeep.

20. Toyota 8-inch
Overall, it's a stout axle for its compact size. It actually makes an
OK Jeep swap, but is often frowned upon for being an import part. The
Toyota 8-inch has lots of aftermarket support.

19. Alum Dana 44 (ZJ)
It's a decent, relatively durable axle, but there isn't much
aftermarket support because it's fairly uncommon.

18. Chrysler 8.25
It's a decent axle when mated with moderate-sized tires, however, few
gear ratios are available. It doesn't have much aftermarket support.

17. Ford 8.8 (Ranger and Explorer)
Some versions have weaker 28-spline shafts. The '91-'01 Explorer
31-spline version is preferred ('95-and-later have disc brakes).
There's a lot of aftermarket support for the 8.8, but the C-clip
shafts are a notable weakness. Commonly swapped into Wranglers in
place of the Dana 35, although the marginal gain in strength hardly
seems worth the effort.

16. Toyota Land Cruiser
They're getting harder to find, but they're still usable for a Jeep in
need of an offset rearend, albeit an expensive oddball possibility
with C-clips. An offset Dana 44 from a Quadra-Trac FSJ would be a
better option.

15. Ford 8.8 (fullsize version)
All have 31-spline shafts and undesirable C-clips retaining the axles.
Not a particularly good full-width axle for a Jeep swap.

14. Dana 44 (non-Wrangler)
Much like the Dana 44 front axle, the 44 rearend enjoys a lot of
aftermarket support in the form of optional ratios, floater kits, and
aftermarket differentials for more traction. Some early models are
plagued with small bend-prone axletubes, weak coarse-spline shafts (as
well as two-piece shafts), and coarse-spline pinions. Early
'70-and-later Dana 44 rears are much more desirable. Look for 2
3/4-inch axletubes and 30-spline, one-piece shafts.

13. AMC 20 (FSJ)
The FSJ AMC 20 is stronger than the CJ version and perhaps about equal
to the strength of a newer Dana 44. However, it doesn't enjoy as much
aftermarket support as the Dana. Fewer gear ratios and lockers are
available.

12. '07-and-later Wrangler (Rubicon only) Dana 44
It features stronger tubes than the axles in the previous model
Wrangler and 32-spline shafts. It's sure to see plenty of aftermarket
support, including complete assemblies available from Mopar.

11. Chrysler 9.25
It's only found in Dodge trucks and vans. Even though it's relatively
strong, it's not all that great of a swap for a full-width axle. Very
few ratios and aftermarket differentials are available for the 9.25.
It's also a C-clip axle.

10. Ford 9-inch
It's the king of aftermarket components. The 9-inch came in Ford cars
and trucks and can be found in many configurations, lug patterns, and
widths; junkyard versions are becoming more difficult to find. Look
for the stronger 31-spline versions over the weaker 28-spline. Most
axles can be converted to stronger 31-, 33-, 35-, and even 40-spline
shafts with bolt-on parts. Plenty of differentials are available and
gear ratios ranging from 2.80:1 to 6.50:1 are easy to find. Complete
aftermarket housings and entire assemblies are available.

9. Full-floating, 30-spline Dana 60
These are extremely common and can be easily found in junkyards under
Dodges, Fords, GMs, and Jeeps alike. They are most often found under
3/4-ton vans and pickups, but a few came under Mopar musclecars. There
is a lot of aftermarket support for the Dana 60.

8. Semifloating Dana 60
It's a little rare, but it can be found under early F-150s and
early-'70s FSJ pickups. It features desirable 35-spline shafts and
uses common Dana 60 gears and carriers, so a lot of aftermarket ratios
and differentials are available.

7. Full-floating Ford 10.25
The ring gear is huge, but aftermarket support is not. The gear ratios
and differential selection is limited. Heavy use will also cause the
axletubes to break free and rotate inside the centersection. Not a
great full-width swap.

6. Full-floating 35-spline Dana 60
They enjoy plenty of aftermarket support because they use common Dana
60 gears and carriers. However, they're very uncommon, and you're not
likely to find one in a wrecking yard. Many 35-spline 60 rear axles
have been converted from 30-spline housings.

5. Rockwell 2 1/2-ton
Rockwell rear axles are often two to three times less expensive than
their frontend counterparts. The housing, gears, carrier, and bearings
are extremely durable. The 16-spline axleshafts are not. Aftermarket
shafts are available to bring it above Dana 80 strength. Only one gear
ratio and few lockers are available. Due to size, 6.72:1 gearing, and
weight, it's not a good axle for tires less than 44 inches tall.

4. Full-Floating GM 14-bolt
The 14-bolt is the king of cheap beef when running tires up to and
more than 44 inches tall. You can't deny the strength of the 10
1/2-inch ring gear, huge 30-spline pinion, and 1 1/2-inch, 30-spline
axleshafts. It also enjoys a decent number of aftermarket gear ratios
and differentials. The fact that it has a removable pinion support and
spanner adjustable backlash makes 14-bolt gear and differential swaps
relatively easy. It can be found in GM 3/4- and 1-ton trucks and vans
in a few different widths. It's often found in wrecking yards for less
than $200 because it's so common. Perhaps its only real weakness is
the thin tinfoil-like diff cover.

3. Full-floating Dana 70
The Dana 70 is another member of the cheap beef squad. However, there
are several versions making them more difficult to identify. Look for
the Dana 70U or 70HD. These feature desirable 1 1/2-inch, 35-spline
shafts. There are also plenty of ratios and a good number of
aftermarket differentials available for these versions of the 70 as
well. They are often found in 1-ton Dodge, Ford, and GM trucks, vans,
and even some tractors and heavy equipment.

2. Full-floating Dana 80
This is the step into medium-duty truck axles. The Dana 80 is more
axle than most people will ever need. There are plenty of ratios
available that range from 3.31:1 to 5.38:1 and a good number of
aftermarket differentials.

1. Full-floating Dana 135
The Dana 135 is found in some Ford F-550 medium-duty trucks and
motorhomes. It features a removable third member like a Toyota or Ford
9-inch. However, its size is more on par with an 18-wheeler rear axle.
The massive size and heavy-duty design make it undesirable for all but
the biggest-tired Jeep swaps.

The Dana 60 front axle may be the most coveted piece of off-road
hardware in the industry. It earned its reputation because of its
strength, the number of aftermarket parts available for it, and the
fact that it has remained relatively unchanged over the last 30 years.
Of course, even the mighty Dana 60 can benefit from an update every
few decades-so in 2004 Ford and Dana released the new Dana Super 60
for use in F-450 and F-550 Super Duty trucks.

Referred to internally as the "Fat Boy", the Dana Super 60 evolved
from the '78-'79 Dana 60 front axle first found under Ford F-250 and
F-350 trucks. Keep in mind the original Dana 60 was designed for a
1-ton pickup with a 4,500-pound front gross axle weight rating (GAWR),
29 1/2-inch-tall tires, 4.10 axle gears, and engines that made less
than 170 hp. The Dana Super 60 on the other hand was designed for Ford
F-550 trucks with nearly twice the weight capacity, 33-inch tires,
5.38 axle gears, and more than 600 lb-ft of engine torque.

So why should you care? Well, the new Super 60 eliminates the
weaknesses (if you can call them that) of the standard Dana 60 and
gives axle swappers a beefier front axle option to handle the largest
tires and most powerful engines. It also improves a vehicle's turning
radius thanks to its larger U-joints and steering knuckles, which
allow for a better steering angle.

When we first learned of the Super 60 we thought it would make a great
upgrade for our '02 F-250 Super Duty, which had a habit of busting
axleshafts and U-joints. Swapping in the Super 60 meant ditching the
leaf springs and converting the 10-lug axle back to eight lugs with
wheel bearings from an '05 F-350 and brake rotors from an '04 F-450.
Post #154616
Posted 4/11/2017 6:31:39 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
This is an old post reposted that is still relevant to the design,
planning, and building of Bat Vehicles.

The best book I have found on automotive performance welding.

Welding is an essential skill for the avid car enthusiast, car
builder, and fabricator. Engines, exhaust, intake, suspensions,
frames, all can be welded for repair and fabrication purposes. While
many introductory or entry-level welding books are available on the
market, this is the first book to comprehensively cover advanced
techniques, complex joints, advanced processes, and working with a
variety of materials, including aluminum, Chrome-moly, stainless
steel, carbon steel, titanium, and magnesium. Using the techniques
revealed in this book, you can fabricate body panels, frames, and any
number of structural and functional automotive components, and perform
structural repair. Welding projects found in this book include welding
the tubes of roll cage for strength and safety, welding sub frame
connectors for improved chassis rigidity, repairing an aluminum frame,
creating a seat support on a rod, welding in a floor pan, fabricate
body panels, frames, and any number of structural and functional
automotive components, and perform structural repair. Welding projects
found in this book include welding the tubes of roll cage for strength
and safety, welding sub-frame connectors for improved chassis
rigidity, repairing an aluminum frame. With this book, beginner to
intermediate skill-level welders will be able to improve and complete
more advanced projects.

ADVANCED AUTOMOTIVE WELDING by Gerald Uttrachi
ISBN-10: 1934709964
ISBN-13 978-1934709962
vertigo
Post #154622
Posted 4/12/2017 5:47:59 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
A couple of years back I studied Big Wave Dave’s travels, adventures,
problem solving, and construction issues in setting up his Rumbler
rear axle and tires. And in a moment of later arrogance and deficiency
of perceived necessary knowledge, I still made the blunder of buying
my rear axle before solving the dually spacing and adapter problems,
having failed to sufficiently grasp all the important details within
his posts on this matter. I have since re-studied his tire and rear
axle posts in great detail with the result that I found most
everything needed to do this part of the build correctly. For this
knowledge, I am very grateful to Big Wave Dave.

Lessons learned from all this:

Number One: The Tumbler is a Bat Vehicle that one needs to buy the
rear tires for first and then solve the dually spacing and adapting
issues before buying the rear axle.

Number Two: Buy a cheap 16.5” diameter X 12” wide steel wheel, install
it in one of the tires, and inflate to the proper pressures. I have
ordered one and will do after I receive it and my tires.

Note: You will not be able to get accurate measurements without
following this step. It is the only way to accurately measure for
changes in tire expansion characteristics due to inflation.

Note: In this case a proxy tire is not the preferred method for dually
tires because of the unpredictable expansion characteristics due to
inflation.

Number Three: Use these carefully recorded measurements to draw two
detailed tires/wheels in profile and scale of your choice.

I plan to draw two in 1:1 scale on cardboard and cut them out.

This way I can move them around to get the spacing I want on the real
tires to be and once in position they will make it a lot easier to
design and measure for my wheel adaptors or other methods of spacing
and axle mounting.
Post #154628
Posted 4/14/2017 8:00:17 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Something to seriously consider when designing, planning, and building
a Bat Vehicle.
Been spending a lot of my time looking for the right rear axle and
wheels. The most important thing that I have learned from searching
for the right wheels and axles is that the most common heavy duty axle
and wheel bolt pattern is 8 on a 6.5" bolt circle. Almost every
factory steel wheel is available in this bolt pattern and it is the
most common bolt pattern found on axles from 250, 2500, 350, 3500,
etc., etc., pickup trucks. vertigo
Post #156635
Posted 4/18/2017 5:34:43 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Hey sly,

Just received this email with attachment from

www.sideshowtoy.comwhats-new/batmobile-sixth-scale/

“Batmobile Sixth Scale

Check out Hot Toy’s Batmobile Sixth Scale, as seen in Batman vs

Superman: Dawn of Justice. Coming soon, so check back for updates!”


  Post Attachments 
Hot Toys DOJ Batmobile.jpg (6 views, 223.78 KB)
Post #156653
Posted 4/26/2017 6:34:22 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
Placed a copy of this post here because it may be of use to others planning or building a Bat Vehicle.
Here is a diagram of the 4-link suspension and truss setup I will be using to set up my GM 14 bolt rear axle.


  Post Attachments 
4-link.jpg (3 views, 72.48 KB)
Post #156683
Posted 5/11/2017 4:51:31 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I posted this here because it might be of some benefit to someone planning to build a Bat Vehicle.
MILLER WELDING FORUM: Hemi-joint threaded insert welding.
Note: Suspension and steering related hemi-joints are considered to be
critical welded parts in that weld/part failures could result in
severe injury and death. If you don’t have absolute confidence in your
parts/materials, welding, and weld testing, knowledge and abilities,
take them to a professional welder.
Here is the related posting.
“Now some will say they got nice hot welds on the bungs they did with
MIG. I do not know what their experience is but having a MIG weld go
in "nice and hot" is certainly no guarantee if it is sound or not.
Only practicing and destruction testing on your welds will show if
welding and parameters were correct. So, I buy some extra bungs and
weld them as practice. Once welded, I cut long and sideways through
the center and examine for fusion. This is the only way I can know for
certain. Anytime I change any variable such as tubing material, even
the thickness, hemi-joint threaded insert material/dimensions, welding
wire/rod, welder settings, etc. I destruction test the new welded
combination. It is the only way I can be certain that my welding and
parameters were correct.”
On many welding websites and forums I have observed a lot of
reluctance to discuss the exact specifics, such as, actual welding
techniques and methods, as well as, any recommendations for specific
MIG wires and TIG filler rods. Which I can understand given the
inherent major responsibility and liability risks associated with
welding suspension and steering hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts.
Post #156774
Posted 5/16/2017 8:11:10 PM
Has NO LIFE!!

Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!Has NO LIFE!!


Last Login: 12/4/2023 11:08:55 PM
Posts: 3,232, Visits: 5,166
I posted a copy of this post here because it might be of some benefit
to anyone planning, starting, or currently building a Bat Vehicle.

“Man, that looks sweet! It would be cool if you did a video on the
weld. Is that too much to ask?”

Not really set up to do video but I plan to show in great detail how I
welded and tested by destruction my hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts
(bungs). This will be reflective of my unique and particular
hemi-joint threaded tubing insert (bung) welding experience and only
relevant to the variables related to my particular set of materials,
welding, and weld testing.  If the welding of my hemi-joint threaded
tubing inserts is successful, it is in no way a guarantee, that
someone else with a different set of materials, machines, welding
abilities, methods, and technique variables would achieve the same
results.
I currently have four extra hemi-joint threaded tubing inserts on
order to be used for welding and weld testing by destruction. I have
added  this from the Miller Welding forum

MILLER WELDING FORUM: Hemi-joint threaded insert welding.
Note: Suspension and steering related hemi-joints are considered to be
critical welded parts in that weld/part failures could result in
severe injury and death. If you don’t have absolute confidence in your
parts/materials, welding, and weld testing, knowledge and abilities,
take them to a professional welder.
Here is the related posting.
“Now some will say they got nice hot welds on the bungs they did with
MIG. I do not know what their experience is but having a MIG weld go
in "nice and hot" is certainly no guarantee if it is sound or not.
Only practicing and destruction testing on your welds will show if
welding and parameters were correct. So, I buy some extra bungs and
weld them as practice. Once welded, I cut long and sideways through
the center and examine for fusion. This is the only way I can know for
certain. Anytime I change any variable such as tubing material, even
the thickness, hemi-joint threaded insert material/dimensions, welding
wire/rod, welder settings, etc. I destruction test the new welded
combination. It is the only way I can be certain that my welding and
parameters were correct.”
Post #156791
« Prev Topic | Next Topic »

«««1314151617»»»

Reading This Topic Expand / Collapse
Active Users: 0 (0 guests, 0 members, 0 anonymous members)
No members currently viewing this topic.

Permissions Expand / Collapse

All times are GMT -5:00, Time now is 1:43pm


Execution: 0.172. 11 queries. Compression Disabled.

Batman (1989 Version)

CLTC Club Shirts




1989 Batmobile Kit 1989 Batmobile Kits
1989 Batmobile Builders Batmobile Kit
Batmobile Kits 1989 Batmobile Builder





Batman and all related characters and elements are trademarks of and DC Comics and WB.
Use of anything related to "Batman" on this site is not to infringe upon the copyrights of DC Comics or WB.
The purpose of chickslovethecar.com is to foster positive discussion about one of the greatest vehicles of all time.
This site does not sell or build any related cars or kits. © 2004-2012 chickslovethecar.com "Chicks Love The Car"
Images linked courtey of cltc.co.

You can contact us by clicking here.